You can reuse the grommets. The problem is above the baffle plate , you can see that in your photo, it is riveted to the valve cover , lower side of the cover by the PCV nipple

 

Does this mean the baffles inside that may be clogged up, or are they are just not working? If they're not working, I'd assume I would have to buy a new valve cover?

 

Okay, I start cleaning the valve cover a little bit and noticed that there are a lot of cracks in the outside exhaust side of the valve cover. I don't see any cracks inside the valve cover.

 

Baffles clogged up, need to be cleaned out. If those cracks are leaking, then order a new valve cover.
Careful now, ensure you find one for the 2.2, your 2008 should not have VVT solenoids, so it’s not the same as a 2.4 or 2.0 litre

 

Alright, it's been a little while since my last post. The cracks on the valve cover were just surface cracks from the casting. I put everything back together, and I decided to go and swap out the SKP spark plugs I had (not sure why I chose these before) for some ACDelco 41103 spark plugs. I checked my oil today and there doesn't seem to be any more oil loss after 100 miles. The dipstick seems to be reading weird on a level surface, where the front side with the notches shows way higher than the backside of the dipstick. I have just been going by the backside of the dipstick.

 

The plug change a very good decision.
The oil level on the dip stick , so long as you check it parked in the same spot, and the level is the same awesome!
Glad those cracks weren’t more severe!

 

Just a random comment; it makes a difference when you check the oil, it takes like 10 minutes for all of the oil to drain back down to the sump.

 

Yep, I let it sit on the level surface for about an hour before checking the oil.

 

Hey, sorry for reviving a little bit of an old thread but I think adding to this thread might help (let me know if I should make a new thread instead). My car has been going through oil for the past month or two, about a quart every 200 miles. I went to check the oil yesterday and opened the radiator cap to find a chocolate milk consistency in there. It's around 2-3 quarts of oil that might've mixed with the coolant. The dipstick still shows regular oil. I just ordered a leak down test kit, just wondering what it could be while I wait for it.

The head gasket was just replaced with a brand new enginetech one two years ago when I put a refurbished head on with the timing service. The engine has never overheated- I always watch the temp and it's never gone above 210. I just replaced the thermostat last year. Is there anything else it could be or anything I should also be looking for? Can any bottom-end components cause oil to mix with the coolant?

 

Well the compression results from a year ago were on the low side, probably worn rings. A quart in 200 miles, that is a lot of oil. I don't see that anyone recommended a wet compression test. That's a way to find if the rings are worn. The leak down test is more comprehensive.

What's in the radiator might be ATF, would indicate a bad radiator.

I still say oil could get in the coolant, through a bad head gasket. The coolant pressure cap vents at 15 psi, the oil pressure has to be higher, especially before the coolant reaches normal operating temperature. Then throw compression and vacuum into the equation.