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P0171, No AC, No engine fan, runs rough higher engine temps

Old Jan 30, 2021 | 05:34 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by donbrew
Would you please just check the wires to the pressure switch. I suspect that the guy that played with the alternator did something to them. Have you tried hot wiring the clutch? Try hotwiring the pressure switch. Stop over thinking.
The blend door moves automagically. The rear defrost doesn't do anything to the AC. Pressure switches are not expensive and they are DIY with a Schrader valve behind them.

Looking at the butterfly; did the car sit outside for a long time?
Car is outside all the time. I didnt mean to be difficult. I just hate throwing parts at it. And do you mean jumping the clutch at the fuse box? Ill jump the clutch and ill head to th store now to buy a pressure switch, I just hate throwing parts and wasting money. I wasnt aware the pressure switch was DIY, I assumed it would cause freeon to leak. And I figured I would check the control panel because at Christmas at my parents, the inner knob that controls fan speed went bad so I replaced that part in the middle.

Originally Posted by RJ_RS_SS_350
What is circled is the blower motor, not the AC button. The section of the diagram you've provided doesn't show anything conclusive.

My Haynes manual shows 6 wires from the HVAC headunit logic for heated seats. It doesn't differentiate between driver side or passenger.
thank you! That picture was a diagram I found from google, I didnt circle it. Its only blinking when I sit in it which is why I suspect the the panel could be an issue. But im going to get a pressure switch to see if possibly its the issue.
Old Jan 30, 2021 | 09:19 PM
  #32  
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Oldblue, with my Hvac door noise, I was looking up the price of gears and the actuators and came across this comment you had. So a bad blend door/acuator can stop the compressor/clutch to engage?
Old Jan 30, 2021 | 09:52 PM
  #33  
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What part of "check the wires" means buy a new switch? If the wires are intact simply jumping the 2 terminals would test the switch itself. You shoul check the diode, too.


Old Jan 30, 2021 | 10:06 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by donbrew
What part of "check the wires" means buy a new switch? If the wires are intact simply jumping the 2 terminals would test the switch itself. You shoul check the diode, too.


i took your second to last sentence about the switch being simple and diy as replace it. Diode tested good. I jumped the switch connector with the tv reference and the ground and got nothing. What is wierd is I have a ground and hot tester and none read hot, but with car off they all read green(which indicated a ground. It makes me think there very well maybe a short somewhere. Just kind of hard to test these switches as these cars are ao sensitive, I am surprised people got them to jump when certain conditions have to be met.

Ill be jumping the compressor tommorow to see if the clutch is engaging. I jumped the clutch last week briefly but was by myself so couldn't check functionality. Ill be testing it with the wife tommorow after I trace some wires looks like ground 108 in the back could of been the culprit but ground looked good.

thanks for this diagram. Are you getting these online somewhere or do you have a subscription to mitchel or alldata?

Last edited by donbrew; Jan 30, 2021 at 11:23 PM.
Old Jan 30, 2021 | 11:16 PM
  #35  
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Low ref is digital ground.
check for a PM.
Old Jan 31, 2021 | 06:39 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Jhlowe86
Oldblue, with my Hvac door noise, I was looking up the price of gears and the actuators and came across this comment you had. So a bad blend door/acuator can stop the compressor/clutch to engage?

I was responding to the clicking noise you mentioned when you reconnected the battery.
Old Jan 31, 2021 | 01:36 PM
  #37  
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Its looking like I got bigger problems.

Old Jan 31, 2021 | 02:13 PM
  #38  
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Do you mean no t-stat? If not then you have had a P0128 that went un noticed.
Old Jan 31, 2021 | 02:15 PM
  #39  
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Don't make us guess, what problem are you seeing?
Old Jan 31, 2021 | 03:30 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by donbrew
Do you mean no t-stat? If not then you have had a P0128 that went un noticed.
you mention a P0128 going unnoticed. Makes me wonder if the system is obly partially communicating and not giving me the full story? Scanner I have is generic and I dont think it would give me codes like that anyways. Found a good deal locally for a tech2. Might juat have to get it because there is so much I cant see on these chevys.
[QUOTE=RJ_RS_SS_350;906974]Don't make us guess, what problem are you seeing?]

It had a thermostat. I was seeing bubbles and smelling exhaust which made me nervous. These cars cooling systems are so strange. Ended up being air bubbles with my flex pipe giving off that smell.

burping it, I had a HUGE air bubble. Took about 15 minutes to to reach temperature. I had heat until I screwed the cap on. Seen I loat heat and gauge wasnt going up so I pressed the gas for 5 seconds and it shot up to 225 and kicked the fan on. Just got back from a drive, parked it on a inclined and will fill later when its cooled. Going to do this for a few days.

Now I can focus on my AC. No shop around me that does free AC test. Just ordered a set of gauges off of harbor freight, I needed another set anyway. Flex pipe will be here Tuesday thank god.

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