Here is a short video on checking for a parasitic drain.

 

Charts are good, but the formula is handy; which is why I used "draw" when talking volts in FMG's thread that Blue_SS took issue with.



AND




An ammeter works by inserting a known resistance "bus bar" into the circuit then measures the voltage V/R=I

 

Don
After looking at the Amp draw videos your post #2 now makes sense.
I wish the GM chart had said Amperage draw instead of parasitic load.
Yes the smaller picture does show checking Amps with a battery cutoff switch in the circuit.
The way you show it after hooking up the Amp gauge, you then must pull fuses one by one. Or do you replace a fuse one by one back into the circuit to see the value given.
Checking voltage drop across a fuse and the using the charts I gave a link to will tell the Amperage of that circuit with out using the stand alone tool I posted, or using the method shown.

I have a habit of quickly looking at times, I should slow down.
One thing I did pickup was that wait till the computers boot up fully before taking readings.

Thanks for your input on this.

 

The "disconnect tool" is a bus bar (dual purpose).

 

I understand that.
Nomenclature is a wonderful thing.

 

Hey, if you haven't been able to find the drain, try to use a test light between the negative post of battery and ground after you have allowed the computer to go to sleep and then go through each fuse until the light dims. It's called a parasitic draw test and while it's a fairly routine test the issue I ran into with the hhr for the first time was that the ECU had to go to sleep before I could get an accurate result.

 

You mean the RAP timed out or stopped when you open the drivers door?