Originally Posted by Greg Bystritski

Update:
... I am curious though, how do I add additional transmission oil since whatever was in those cooler lines and was in the cooler itself has leaked out?

Originally Posted by Oldblue

That plug appears to be the MAF sensor connector.
I agree with RJ , fix that hood latch.

Originally Posted by Oldblue

I need to correct my response to the plug question in post # 27 , it’s for the hood latch switch for the remote start



Here’s a photo of one connected to the hood switch

Originally Posted by geg

x2
Take the advice of the guys.
Do not trust? Conduct an experiment: put your hand in an open window with an open palm at a speed of 60 mph - you will feel strong air resistance, it will be difficult for you to keep your hand straight. At 90 mph, this is not possible at all, even if you shade your hand forward.
The exact same force is acting on your hood. Yes, it is made of solid metal, but its area is several tens of times larger than your palm.
Without the hood lock: your hood will be uprooted and it will kill you, or the passenger, or an accidental victim from behind, or all three at once. Even a poorly adjusted lock can lead to tragedy. You've seen bonnet locks on race cars, haven't you? This is specifically to prevent trouble.
Leaving "core support" as it is now is not recommended either. Radiators are attached to the core support, they will be located crookedly. This means increased vibration when driving. the area of ​​the radiators is large and the weight is also significant. Thus, after 3 - 4 months the core support metall will start to break, communication lines may come off. You risk overheating the engine from loss of coolant, kill the transmission from loss of transmission fluid.

I understand that your decisions are dictated by severe necessity. We are all going through difficult times and have our own reasons.
What can be done in this situation:
Get a good steel wire (not electrical wire, not aluminum cable, not nylon rope, but steel wire). Pass it through the hood loop with one end, wrap it around the front bumper reinforcement with the other end. Twist both ends tightly so that the edge of the hood is pressed firmly against the bumper and the hood has no up / down play. Use a screwdriver For twisting, but do not scratch the paint.
The strength of the steel wire will be close to the strength of the steel lock, although not equal to it. You will get a couple of months of safe driving. During this time, you will find a way to bring the car back to its original condition. Of course, uncomfortable opening the hood, but you don't go there every day. Before securing the bonnet with wire, check all fluids and fill the washer reservoir.
Duplicate the first wire loop with a second loop, but less dense. If the first hinge breaks, the hood won't hit you right away and you will have plenty of time to stop. Twisting the remaining second wire loop more tightly, you can continue driving to the repair site. Do not fix the hinges on the radiator grill - this is a weak plastic, will not last long.

Originally Posted by geg

This is a real headache. The cunning GM did not provide for the filler neck and even the control dipstick. Hopes to make some money by replacing the transmission of obedient owners.
But! .. If you rummage through the forum, you will find a lot of useful advice on this problem.
In Russia we use a large syringe with a rubber tube. This is used for pumping fluids, but can be used to change transmission fluid / oil.
Lift the machine onto a lift, inspect the transmission housing from below. Look for a bolt screwed into the side plane of the transmission housing. This bolt is used as a plug - unscrew it. Draw transmission fluid into a syringe and inject it into the hole. Act slowly, in small portions of 100 - 150 grams. Your task is to catch the moment when the liquid begins to pour out. This means that the normal level has been reached and you need to quickly return the bolt to its place (keep the bolt at hand and do not be afraid to get dirty). Important: if there is little fluid, the transmission will jerk, malfunction, overheat; if there is an excess of liquid, the increased pressure will crush the rubber seals and the liquid will burst out. The permissible difference is approximately 100 grams up or down. It sounds scary, but everyone is doing it.
For reference. Our car uses Dextron 6, the rest is contraindicated.

Originally Posted by geg

about ratchet ties - this solution looks aesthetically pleasing and durable. The main thing is that the hood has no up / down play. Inspect more often. Otherwise, the bottom of the plastic bumper cover is at risk. Of course, when tightening the ratchet, fanaticism should also be avoided so as not to crush the plastic.

About replacing the transmission fluid: Theoretically, this can be done with a jack, but ...
1. it is very uncomfortable, constrained movements lying on the back;
2. It can be dangerous - the jack is not reliable, it can fall at any moment. Don't risk getting killed by your own car.
Do not be sad. Just monitor the health of the transmission for the first few days. Listen for jerks, extraneous sounds, or any changes in general. If there is a suspicion of oil starvation, add oil.

Losses of transmission fluid should not be significant, no more than 250 grams, maybe much less. Perhaps your loss is not critical for the transmission and the unit will work normally. But if alarming symptoms, add at least 100 grams of transmission fluid. This can be done without a lift through the technical throat. This throat is located on the driver's side under the hood, somewhere deep down to the left of the engine. It's a bit hard to find (at least I couldn't, until they showed me), but if you do, you'll see a black screw plug. Unscrew it and just pour in 100 grams of oil with a syringe. This method does not allow you to control the liquid level, but when adding a small volume, this can be neglected.