A guide

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...rmation-59520/

 

Well I've replaced the fuse box and read the previous post and went through the steps and no luck. I get power to everything, can hear fuel pump kick in but when I turn key to start position I lose all power and get nothing from the starter.

 

I don't see anywhere in this thread that you've had the battery load tested. We don't know if it's dead, or damaged, or if the alternator is charging it properly.

 

The battery is new and so is the alternator, new starter, new transmission, new ignition switch, new suspension, new control arms. Replaced fuse box, new plugs on headlights, new headlights, New serpentine belt, new fuses and relays, I'm ready to burn it to the ground

 

New does not necessarily mean good.

Then there's every point between the battery and the alternator. Terminal clamps, connections at fuse block, starter and alternator. And the ground points.

 

Something is not wired correctly. Look anywhere anybody has messed with electrical wires before this started. Sounds like something is dead shorting, like the starter or alternator are not hooked up correctly. Did some genius decide to do the "ground the TCM" ?
Sounds a lot like some switch is connected to ground instead of 12v or 12v on both sides.
What happened just before this started?

OK, back to the original P1682 code. As I tried to say in the wayback; that means there is a problem in the ignition circuit, like a short circuit.

For your reading pleasure a PDF of the procedure for P1682:
Printing from undefined.pdf

 

Last major thing done before all this started happening, was the transmission getting replaced at a shop. It ran about 6 months and the headlight started getting dim and acting funny and the fuse for the electronic steering motor would blow. Found that the headlight connectors were burnt like they got to hot. I bought new connectors and bulbs and replaced them. Car then ran normal for about a week then it started saying reduced engine power and wouldn't run correctly. I bought a code reader since I couldn't get the car anywhere and it gave me code p1682. I have done everything suggested. Battery, starter, alternator serpentine ignition switch, fuse box, ecm, o2 sensors, all new suspension including control arms all done within the last year. It's dang near a brand new car. Just got the new ecm in, preprogrammed by vin for the car, I hook it up connect Battery go through procedures everything is working. I turn the key to start position and nothing. I have power to everything but nothing. I even rolled engine over by hand just to make sure it wasn't locked. I don't know what else to do but I have to move by end of November and would love to be able to drive this car away and not tow it.

 

Seems like the power wire from the fuse box to the starter and the to alternator isn’t wired correctly.

 

When I put an ECM in, also VIN programmed, I had to perform the key relearn procedure.

1. Depress the clutch and try to start the car. If it does not turn over, let off, but leave the key in the run position. The security light should be lit up on the dash.
2. Wait 10 minutes(you can open the door and get out). The security light on the dash will turn off after 10 minutes.
3. Turn the key off for 5 seconds, then depress the clutch and try to start the car. If it does not turn over, let off, but leave the key in the run position. The security light should be lit up on the dash.
4. Wait 10 minutes(you can open the door and get out). The security light on the dash will turn off after 10 minutes.
5. Turn the key off for 5 seconds, then depress the clutch and try to start the car. If it does not turn over, let off, but leave the key in the run position. The security light should be lit up on the dash.
6. Wait 10 minutes(you can open the door and get out). The security light on the dash will turn off after 10 minutes.
7. Turn the key off for 5 seconds, then depress the clutch and try to start the car. The car should start on this attempt.

Of course, this is for manual transmission, not sure what the differences are, if any, for automatic.

The formula of trying to start, leave key on for 10 minutes, then off for 5 seconds, repeated, should work.

 

Now that I know the trans was replaced, I think you should try cranking down on the bolts that hold the underhood fuse box together, they need to be tightened way more than "as tight as I can before they strip" you need to hear a few clicks.