Reduced Power
#15
Well we cleaned off the terminals and it ran fine for about 20-30 minutes last night, haven't driven it at all today thanks to the semi-blizzard we have had for the past day but hopefully it fixed it.
#16
Since newer TB setups rely on signal input you may have found your issue already. Like said wires being broken or damage is another thought. The only time I hit "Reduced Power" Mode is excessive tire spin from slick surfaces which btw is very annoying in blizzard like conditions. I say let it bump off the rev limiter!!
All joking aside, let us know how it is running soon.
All joking aside, let us know how it is running soon.
#18
I just drove the 40 miles to school and it was doing fine. A little sluggish on the acceleration, but tha could be the ice/snow. My boyfriend tuned it and it almost seems like the car lost the tune.
#19
I'm watching this post because I am having the same 2135 code on my 2008 HHR come up regularly. The code indicates there is a communication problem between the gas pedal, throttle body or computer. I don't know if you are all aware of this but there is no actual mechanical connection between the gas pedal and the throttle body. It is all electrical wires. There are issues with the throttle body itself (actually the problem is the throttle position sensor which instead of being attached to the throttle body with 3 screws is integral to it and requires replacing the entire throttle body if the TPS goes bad)
Some of the codes are caused by faulty wires, chafed wires, bad crimps at the terminals, and
It could be the gas pedal switch (the unit that generates the signal that tells the computer how far the pedal is depressed so the computer can open the throttle an appropriate amount)
Or it could be a problem in the engine computer itself.
Have your guy pull up the service bulletin concerning this code and it gives a troubleshooting procedure to follow before replacing components. (surprised he wasn't familiar with it)
Post your results please. I have had my problem go away for anywhere from a day to more than 1000 miles but it always comes back. If I had more confidence in the dealership I would take it in but since I am out of warranty, I don't want them shotgunning it at my expense.
Some of the codes are caused by faulty wires, chafed wires, bad crimps at the terminals, and
It could be the gas pedal switch (the unit that generates the signal that tells the computer how far the pedal is depressed so the computer can open the throttle an appropriate amount)
Or it could be a problem in the engine computer itself.
Have your guy pull up the service bulletin concerning this code and it gives a troubleshooting procedure to follow before replacing components. (surprised he wasn't familiar with it)
Post your results please. I have had my problem go away for anywhere from a day to more than 1000 miles but it always comes back. If I had more confidence in the dealership I would take it in but since I am out of warranty, I don't want them shotgunning it at my expense.
#20
We replaced the throttle body and it fixed it for about 20 minutes, so we inspected all the wires and everything we could see and couldn't find any fraying or cut wires. Finally we started checking the resistance of all the wires to make sure they were all correct, and found out that the terminals were really dirty and some had bad crimps. We just got back from a mini-cation that was a 4 hour drive one way and haven't had any problems.
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desmonda
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12-24-2014 07:43 AM