Steering shaft, 2009 LT 2.2 litre
#11
I had a Nissan p/u that needed a new steering box from an accident. It sat in the body shop for 3 weeks waiting for parts. The shop owner had a 10 year old boy that played in the shop after school playing road racer.
They just couldn't understand why no horn, lights & airbag light etc after they gave it back to me. Sent a mobile airbag guy out; diagnosed and fixed in 20 minutes.
They just couldn't understand why no horn, lights & airbag light etc after they gave it back to me. Sent a mobile airbag guy out; diagnosed and fixed in 20 minutes.
#12
Steering shaft
[QUOTE=donbrew;853811]I had a Nissan p/u that needed a new steering box from an accident. It sat in the body shop for 3 weeks waiting for parts. The shop owner had a 10 year old boy that played in the shop after school playing road racer.
They just couldn't understand why no horn, lights & airbag light etc after they gave it back to me. Sent a mobile airbag guy out; diagnosed and fixed in 20 minutes.[/QU
I still wonder how im gonna get the lower yoke out. Car is not high enough. Would car ramps work?
They just couldn't understand why no horn, lights & airbag light etc after they gave it back to me. Sent a mobile airbag guy out; diagnosed and fixed in 20 minutes.[/QU
I still wonder how im gonna get the lower yoke out. Car is not high enough. Would car ramps work?
#13
Tie it off with small cargo straps pulling from each side.
Taking off the left side wheel will help. Support the car with a jack stand before removing the wheel.
Here is a video of a Cobalt which should help you.
Taking off the left side wheel will help. Support the car with a jack stand before removing the wheel.
Here is a video of a Cobalt which should help you.
#14
Yes a jack stand and remove the left front wheel, I used a long drift and an 8 lb sledge hammer to coax the lower yoke off the rack input shaft. But the air chisel was a bit easier to manoeuvre
here is another account of removing and replacing the shaft
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...warning-53626/
here is another account of removing and replacing the shaft
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...warning-53626/
#15
Yes a jack stand and remove the left front wheel, I used a long drift and an 8 lb sledge hammer to coax the lower yoke off the rack input shaft. But the air chisel was a bit easier to manoeuvre
here is another account of removing and replacing the shaft
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...warning-53626/
here is another account of removing and replacing the shaft
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...warning-53626/
Im going to replace my steering shaft tomorrow. Will let you know how it turns out. Just for kicks i went to a salvage yard and removed one, then with all my info i recieved, put it back on. Kind of a practice run. As i live in Iowa, its gonna be cold when i do it(not snowing yet) but things should turn out well.
#17
Steering shaft
you bet,
I have documented and photographed everything i have done to this car.
My wife and i own this 2009 HHR. My wife paid 1 dollar for it. InThe 2 years we have had this 2.2 LT I have done some major/minor work that has proven this car to be very dependable.
I have documented and photographed everything i have done to this car.
My wife and i own this 2009 HHR. My wife paid 1 dollar for it. InThe 2 years we have had this 2.2 LT I have done some major/minor work that has proven this car to be very dependable.
#18
Just an Observation from your picture
.
Unless your hood was not completely closed when you took this shot you can adjust the hood down in the front to close the large gap. and improve the look.
It involves screwing down the 2 large hood bumpers (one on each side). You should also loosen the bolts on the hood latch mechanism to drop it down a bit. I use a small length of masking tape to mark where I started so I can see if I need to make addition moves to get it so nothing is touching or binding when done. It requires a little extra time to get it right but you will want the hood snug on the bumpers and the hood even from side to side when finished.
Silverfox
.
Unless your hood was not completely closed when you took this shot you can adjust the hood down in the front to close the large gap. and improve the look.
It involves screwing down the 2 large hood bumpers (one on each side). You should also loosen the bolts on the hood latch mechanism to drop it down a bit. I use a small length of masking tape to mark where I started so I can see if I need to make addition moves to get it so nothing is touching or binding when done. It requires a little extra time to get it right but you will want the hood snug on the bumpers and the hood even from side to side when finished.
Silverfox
#20
H
Just an Observation from your picture
.
Unless your hood was not completely closed when you took this shot you can adjust the hood down in the front to close the large gap. and improve the look.
It involves screwing down the 2 large hood bumpers (one on each side). You should also loosen the bolts on the hood latch mechanism to drop it down a bit. I use a small length of masking tape to mark where I started so I can see if I need to make addition moves to get it so nothing is touching or binding when done. It requires a little extra time to get it right but you will want the hood snug on the bumpers and the hood even from side to side when finished.
Silverfox
.
Unless your hood was not completely closed when you took this shot you can adjust the hood down in the front to close the large gap. and improve the look.
It involves screwing down the 2 large hood bumpers (one on each side). You should also loosen the bolts on the hood latch mechanism to drop it down a bit. I use a small length of masking tape to mark where I started so I can see if I need to make addition moves to get it so nothing is touching or binding when done. It requires a little extra time to get it right but you will want the hood snug on the bumpers and the hood even from side to side when finished.
Silverfox