I'm going to try and pull the fuse as well.

 

Omgggggggg pulled number 28 and 31 under the hood and everything works!

 

Bingo

 

I'm not up on vehicular HID lighting, but have a great amount of experience in line voltage systems. In all forms, HID lighting consist of a ballast, capacitor and a starter. The capacitor must build up enough voltage to ignite the gaseous filament of the bulb. In order to harness the charge, the ignitor holds, then releases the charge for the ignition once there is enough supply voltage at the capacitor level. It sounds to me that there might be an issue with the storage of energy in the capacitor section. Check the 12V feed with an ammeter. The value should increase over time (not instantaneous), then slowly bleed down. If it remains constant when voltage is introduced, there might be an issue with either the capacitor or the supply voltage (dips when capacitor is loading). This may be an issue of voltage drop initiated insufficient factory wire gauge. If this is the case, try jumping the harness with a larger gauge (say AWG #6 or #6).

HID lighting is a science that is too complex for vehicle use today, but some are willing to put up with the problems. I expect another "I hate HHRs because" post in the future...

 

Haha well its working now so its all good :)

 

And this also explains why pulling the DRL fuse made it work. Drl is something like reduced voltage I.E. not 12V, not enough to feed the capacitor.

 

Glad you're up and running ufvj, things like that can frustrate the poop out of you. But now that I had time to think on it while drying out the garage, it makes perfect sense.

 

update


they're doing it again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i had to turn on/off the lights like 5 times. IMO that's unacceptable. there's gotta be a way to resolve this issue!

 

do i need something like this?

http://www.dxhid.com/apps/webstore/products/show/435479

 

Dunno. Gas Man, spirited driver, and Low-n-Loud are running the same DDM HIDs and they are not having this problem.