2.0 Timing Chain Problem at 61,000 Miles?
#31
When you put the bolt for the belt tensioner back in I suggest having a magnet on your socket extension.
It turns out to be easier than it looks to drop the bolt into the gap, it ends up inside the frame. I was lucky the local dealer had one in stock.
I am kind of surprised you got it out without jacking the engine around, On my 2.2L there was no way.
It turns out to be easier than it looks to drop the bolt into the gap, it ends up inside the frame. I was lucky the local dealer had one in stock.
I am kind of surprised you got it out without jacking the engine around, On my 2.2L there was no way.
#32
Timing Chain Update:
I removed the timing chain cover this afternoon to see what I can see. Nothing out of the ordinary from what I can tell.
Removed the motor mount and motor mount bracket to remove the gasket and give me a little more room to work.
I haven’t pulled the tensioner out yet. As I rotate the crank (clockwise, of course), I noticed the chain tension between the cam sprockets going from taunt to slack to taunt to slack, and sometimes I hear a slight rattle sound as the chain moves. I also noticed the chain sometimes going a little slack around the crank sprocket, but maybe that was my imagination.
I rotated the crank until the colored links aligned with the timing mark on the actuators; I got the best straight-on shot I could get for the photos—exhaust at 10 o’clock, intake at 2 o’clock. I don’t see a mark on the crank sprocket, but the red link seems to be at the correct 5 o’clock position with the crank keyway at 12 o’clock. So, it doesn’t look like I jumped a tooth, but maybe the chain finally stretched enough for the timing to be slightly off and set the codes.
Note that the timing chain cannot be removed without removing the cam actuators. UGH.
One thing I noticed is the ring around the balancer chain tensioner piston that shows where the tension spent some amount of time before the chain stretched and the tensioner had to compensate. The only reason I noticed is because I watch a video whereby the timing chain tensioner was maxed out and no longer providing much tension. The technician described the lines like rings on a tree showing that the fault wasn’t instantaneous, that the tensioner did its job until it couldn’t. Interesting...
I guess tomorrow I'll remove the timing chain tensioner, actuators, chain, and guides to see if there's anything obviously bad. Once I have a new chain, I'll be able to compare lengths.
One step at a time...
I removed the timing chain cover this afternoon to see what I can see. Nothing out of the ordinary from what I can tell.
Removed the motor mount and motor mount bracket to remove the gasket and give me a little more room to work.
I haven’t pulled the tensioner out yet. As I rotate the crank (clockwise, of course), I noticed the chain tension between the cam sprockets going from taunt to slack to taunt to slack, and sometimes I hear a slight rattle sound as the chain moves. I also noticed the chain sometimes going a little slack around the crank sprocket, but maybe that was my imagination.
I rotated the crank until the colored links aligned with the timing mark on the actuators; I got the best straight-on shot I could get for the photos—exhaust at 10 o’clock, intake at 2 o’clock. I don’t see a mark on the crank sprocket, but the red link seems to be at the correct 5 o’clock position with the crank keyway at 12 o’clock. So, it doesn’t look like I jumped a tooth, but maybe the chain finally stretched enough for the timing to be slightly off and set the codes.
Note that the timing chain cannot be removed without removing the cam actuators. UGH.
One thing I noticed is the ring around the balancer chain tensioner piston that shows where the tension spent some amount of time before the chain stretched and the tensioner had to compensate. The only reason I noticed is because I watch a video whereby the timing chain tensioner was maxed out and no longer providing much tension. The technician described the lines like rings on a tree showing that the fault wasn’t instantaneous, that the tensioner did its job until it couldn’t. Interesting...
I guess tomorrow I'll remove the timing chain tensioner, actuators, chain, and guides to see if there's anything obviously bad. Once I have a new chain, I'll be able to compare lengths.
One step at a time...
#35
#38
Agree. I've started to make a list of the parts I think I'll need, but will know more after I remove the chain and stuff. I'll definitely add crank sprocket to the list. I don't understand why there is no timing mark on the sprocket. Maybe the tooth has a mark.
#39
I'm looking at the pic in the Haynes manual. In relation to the mark on the crank sprocket for the balance shaft chain, the mark should be 3 teeth over(about 4:30). Your timing chain appears to be only 2 teeth over. The way I've worded that makes sense in my head, I hope it does to you too.
I guess no matter, as you're replacing it anyway. I would just want to know if it were me.
I wonder if the mark is on the back(upside down)? I would think it would have a mark on both sides, but who knows?
I guess no matter, as you're replacing it anyway. I would just want to know if it were me.
I wonder if the mark is on the back(upside down)? I would think it would have a mark on both sides, but who knows?