drummerboy0088

Quick Update on all of this...

Brother and I begin the engine swap process Saturday. 2 hours and we had the LNF motor disconnected, and removed from the Auto SS. We disconnected everything, let the axle/rotors hang, and dropped the engine/trans/front end suspension all out the bottom of the car. Also removed the stock intercooler, which showed metallic flakes saturated in oil on the intake tube of the intercooler, but the exhaust tube of the intercooler was dry with no oil. Looks like the insides of the turbo never made it out of the intercooler - so the LNF engine could be safe!

ZZP advertised the LDK had everything except the Intake manifold, and the Fuel/Rail Lines, so I purchased the matching LDK fuel/rail lines from ZZP. Everything else we will swap over from the LNF to the LDK engine.

Going to replace the Radiator hoses, Transmission Cooler Lines (which were leaking), Heater Hoses, and any hoses that are needed - they are all original with 81k miles. New engine, might as well put new hoses too. Also going to replace the front control arm bushings, end links, lower control arms, and finally upgrade to the TTR engine mount and Trans mounts.

I was also reading around the site, and decided it's also a good idea to get a oil catch can. The turbo in my LNF fried because the intake tube to the turbo was saturated in oil. Hopefully a catch can can help stop that!

I have a feeling I will start a new thread for this LDK build/swap. This is going to be one heck of a project!


This is going to be a brand new car once this is over that's for sure...

Dbeluscak

It's more than installing a catch can. If you've been reading around my thread, you're aware of this. Simply "putting" one in isn't going to help much. You need keep it from the turbo impeller and most importantly the intake manifold/valves.

There's some drilling and tapping required. You don't have to of course, I've never seen it done. And I'm not finished myself. But our theory is sound. Got to keep the vapor out of that intake system!

Also, if you've got the LDK rail and injectors, they're a slightly higher flow rate. Tuning isn't necessary for them, but you've got a little more fuel when you need it.

drummerboy0088

I do need to read more into the catch can install. There's a lot of questions to sift through in the posts, but from reading what everyone is saying it's obvious it helps with our turbo SS setup.

That's exactly why I got them Dbeluscak. I plan on keeping this car and turn it into a show car. It's funny how people know the HHR (and confuse it for the PT Cruiser), but as soon as they see the SS badges they're interested. Even my uncle who is a GM fan didn't even know this car came as an SS option. This will definitely be a rare breed at car shows in 15-20 years!

I knew there would come a time I would want or need to replace the engine and it made sense to do it now when ZZP has them available, and since I decided to do it I wanted to do this right - hints getting the rail and injectors that match. Eventually I will install a larger turbo, stage 1 sensors and ZZPs LNF turbo PCM, but the LDK with a stock K04 turbo is a great start!


Just read some of your thread Dbelusack - page 3 & 4 have been super informative! Thank you for posting about all of this. Looks like I'll be following in your footsteps, and run a 2 catch can system.

Catch Can 1 - Valve cover -> Catch Can -> Inlet of k04 turbo. Can bolt this catch can where you mounted your original catch can to the firewall.
Catch Can 2 - Interrupt PCV valve air flow going to intake manifold. Looks like PCV valve air flow -> catch can -> Intake Manifold. Rob Shumate Posted on his Instagram page his catch can bolted to the front of the PCM housing - looks like an ideal place for this catch can. (see pic below)



ZZP has a catch can setup for $60 Oil Catch Can - Engine
Comes with can, fittings, bracket, 3/8 hose, hose clamps. Replace the hose and fittings with AN fittings/braided lines, and I should be good to go!

now to continue reading to see how to mod the intake manifold/remove this PCV valve

DrLoch

Whether the ZZP can is going to be effective or not is how it's constructed internally. There are a number of different theories as to what will work and what won't. In a nut shell the inlet, the line coming from the Valve cover, needs to go down into the can below some baffles or coalescing filtering material. You have to get the oil mist out of the incoming air. If the two fittings are just connected to the head with no down line and baffling it won't be effective. A compressor air filter piped backwards will work with some modification, I have one on my truck and it does a good job of removing and separating the oil mist. Look at Northern tools air filters, Northern Industrial Replacement Air Filter — 1/2in. Fitting | Air Compressor Filters, Lubricators Regulators| Northern Tool + Equipment.

Dbeluscak

Agreed Doc, no idea on the ZZP can either. I would assume it's similar to most, with a different name on it. Which is why I'm starting with the simple compressor separators.

-on a side note, since you're adding the fittings. -4 JIC and -4AN are interchangeable. JIC is the military grade equivalent, and what I had lying around.

I've also done research into the differences with the LDK. It actually comes factory with a vacuum pump. Driven off the exhaust cam, it will come from ZZP with a block off plate. The pump is a special order part from Buick. I'm going to see what it's rated at to see if it's worth the install.

2005HHRauto

This is the reason for the delay in the production of the base 2.0 turbo 2016 Camaro...
a proper crankcase ventilation system...

At SEMA this this year, there was a GM supplied 2016 ATS with the latest RX system installed on display.

Tracy Lewis, the Head of Engineering & Product Development at RX Performance Products, developed a solution to the GM 2.0 turbo piston failure issue, working with GM engineering to help solve design flaws, & overcome obstacles in product development.

The lack of understanding proper crankcase evacuation on turbo charged passenger cars has caused GM severe headaches with the failures related to this.

Good Read:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...ng-system.html

RX Performance Products
FAQ ? Rx Speed Works
All gasoline engines can benefit from proper PCV vapor evacuation and the removal of oil mist. You only want air and fuel in the combustion chamber and an RX oil separating catch can system is the solution. Our system uses constant vacuum to pull the PCV vapors out of the crank case and once they coalesce the harmful deposits are left behind such as sulfuric acid, unburned fuel, oil mist and water. These compounds are what build up on the valves, this is known as valve coking. In boosted vehicles the intercooler will ingest some oil and water as well.

Catch Can Kits ? Rx Speed Works
Single Valve Catch Can – The single valve catch can is for naturally aspirated engines that aren’t driven with performance in mind. In other words, non-boosted applications, meaning they do not have a supercharger or turbo system.

Dual Valve Catch Can – The dual valve catch can is necessary in forced induction engines and engines that have been modified with a focus on performance driving. If a vehicle is boosted with a supercharger or turbo system or has been modified for high output it requires the dual valve system.

Monster Catch Can – The Monster can is a higher volume can and should be used in forced induction applications with more than 15 lbs. of boost pressure. We also recommend the higher volume Monster can for those that live in colder climates with winter temperatures reaching below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Colder temperatures with more moisture in the air will cause the can to fill faster, with a bigger can the less you’ll have to drain it.

Read more about this cool dude, who knows, & helped GM with this problem:
https://www.linkedin.com/in/tracy-lewis-a7ba843b

Cleaning videos:

drummerboy0088

Correct - Since this is for my auto SS, I had to select FWD install, and they removed the vacuum pump and put a block off plate.

Good to know about the JIC and AN being interchangeable - thanks!

Looking at page 5 of your feed Dbeluscak, looks like you're going from the intake manifold into the Air Filter (Thanks Dr for the link!) - that goes to the catch can, then out the catch can to the PCV Valve, back into the intake. Is that correct?


Thank you for chiming in and helping!

Dbeluscak

I am going from the intake manifold; -> new pcv housing -> catch can -> back into the manifold through brake booster.

DrLoch

2005HHRauto, thanks for the links, good read.

drummerboy0088

Awesome - and you're having the air go through the mini air filter like Dr posted between the PCV and catch can, or between the catch can and intake manifold?

That's a great read 2005HHRAuto. I also messaged RX to see what they recommend for a 2 catch can setup.