Watch that loud noise... Dealer just replaced the turbo in the SS after it went bad. It too was making a noise when letting off the gas. Reminds me of the problem with the B5 S4 turbos.

 

These are the connectors that are used. They are used to repair airbag systems that keep people alive. The proceedure MUST be followed in order to obtain the intended result. I wonder if because the turbo upgrade is not a life safety issue, most dealers are skirting the proper proceedures and only crimping them with an improper die and without using the torch to seal them?

http://www.i-car.com/html_pages/tech...5/103105.shtml

http://www.sandyblogs.com/techlink/2...grade-kit.html
Note: "Use the splice sleeves included in the kit and use the proper crimping tool from the J-38125 terminal repair kit"

 

Here's been my experience with soldered wires...........it's been great!

If you go back two years now there was another thread in which I stated that I had many of the problems camaro98Z28 was reporting but had my connectors soldered by my dealer. My problems went away and have never come back.

So how long have they lasted? How about 2 years and over 38K miles. Since these connections have been soldered I have had not a single issue with the way my car has run. What frustrates me a bit is hearing that some of you have had your dealers either refuse to do this or charge you to do it. The dealer that installed my stage kit (I was their first) agreed to solder at no charge.

camaro98Z28 you can now see the success of the soldered connections. Too bad it took you so long to get it done and even worse that your dealer wouldn't do it. I'm glad it seems to be working out for you.

 

So true. the reason I didn't do it earlier ws because I didn't think I was good enough at soldering wires. I had all the stuff for a long time and just decided to practice on wire. Glad I did. The dealer kept ignoring it and kept telling me that it wasn't the wire and that it was the MAF now. All better so far and over 2 weeks.

 

Difference between an Airbag circuit and a MAPP circuit is the MAP needs a constant signal 5V reference which Air Bags don't run on that to the ECM. Any minor difference between the Sensor and the ECM will throw off calibration and will cause the engine to act up. I figure because the MAPP sensors, MAF sensors, and O2's are most likely all related to AF mixture, one issue can look like another. It is said that No Connectors "BUTT CONNECTORS" should never be used on Sensors.

 

So my jerking issue has been fixed. I was popping the P0101 code. Dealer gave me a new MAF redid the connectors on the MAP sensors. And another thing i found out is that my o2 sensor took a **** and that was another reason that the car ran llike crap. So now that its all fixed it runs like a champ

 

Glad you have it repaired, and least it was a simple fix, kind of!

 

I've been dealing with wire and cable for my entire career, which is why this subject still has me puzzled. I have to wonder how 5v high speed data connections (10G Ethernet, etc) meant for up to 500Mhz and above use IDC connections (insulation displacement contact), which is really a form of crimp connector in that it is static in nature. High voltage connections in excess of 13kV are also crimped, but via hydraulic hypress devices. In most vehicles, the pins for the ECM connections are also static by nature.

I witnessed the proper proceedure done to my particular unit, and they have been in service for about a year and a half. It's my opinion that any static connection is liable to failure if not hermetically sealed, because the open under hood environment is much more harsh than the confines of the ECM. This is probably where most installs go awry. Another problem with installs is the lack of clearance from the A/C piping that impinges upon the conductors themselves (again, mine was installed with a good margin of clearance). If I ever have the need to pull the connectors apart and do a defect cause analysis, I will let the group know what I find. I would guess that it would be corrosion if moisture infiltrates the heat sealed connections.

 

Possible corrosion since it isn't right from the get go. In mine, you could see tiny crimp holes in the connector. it took a year to cause an issue for the 2nd time.

 

Hi Guys. I'm a former GM dealer tech, currently I'm an instructor for a professional center's automotive program and work on a consulting basis for KIA.

The splice sleeves shown in the pictures, when installed properly are fine for this application. The problem is some techs refuse to do things properly because they "know" better, or were never taught the correct way.

There are at least 3 issues with the way the sleeves where installed in the pics. 1) the wrong tool was used to make the crimps. 2) they weren't properly heated to evenly distribute the sealant. 3) They weren't staggered. When installed properly the three splices should not be in line with one another, but in different places in the harness. That way, when reinstalled in the loom, there won't be a bulge where the repair is.

For what it's worth, using an ohm meter to check connection integrity is a poor choice of tooling. The results may be inconclusive due to the nature of the way the meter actually performs the measurement. A better way would be to perform a loaded voltage drop test.

All that being said, when I installed the kit on my 2010 HHR I soldered the connections and used quality heat shrink tubing It just bugs me when a dealer or GM gets the blame for something that is clearly the technician's responsibility.