Doing the Job Chevy won't. Wire Job Step 1 MAP
Senior Member
Joined: 01-25-2010
Posts: 640
From: Marietta, PA
Who does the tech work for? The dealer who in all intents and purpose works for GM. If I get crappy customer service from somewhere on a constant basis, like say an electrical company, I don't say "Oh, it's your techs fault." I simply say may grevience and find another place to deal with. It's the dealers fault if they can't hire and keep compenent techs. That my friend is a formula for a going out of business sale.
Senior Member
Joined: 06-21-2008
Posts: 1,458
From: SE Michigan
I apologize if this was covered, but I didn't read all 7 pages so....
Soldering wiring is trickier than it sounds. Too much heat will make the wire brittle and break at the rear of the solder joint. An acquaintance who is an aircraft mechanic told me the never solder wires on aircraft for just that reason. I found out the hard way when I built a 68 HD Sportster and soldered all the connectors on the wires, 6 months ride time and electrical problems were cropping up all over. I ended up ripping all the wiring out and rewired using aircraft grade connectors and bought the VERY expensive crimp tool for them. 12 years of riding after that without a single wiring failure.
Soldering wiring is trickier than it sounds. Too much heat will make the wire brittle and break at the rear of the solder joint. An acquaintance who is an aircraft mechanic told me the never solder wires on aircraft for just that reason. I found out the hard way when I built a 68 HD Sportster and soldered all the connectors on the wires, 6 months ride time and electrical problems were cropping up all over. I ended up ripping all the wiring out and rewired using aircraft grade connectors and bought the VERY expensive crimp tool for them. 12 years of riding after that without a single wiring failure.
Member
Joined: 08-11-2010
Posts: 98
From: House
Who does the tech work for? The dealer who in all intents and purpose works for GM. If I get crappy customer service from somewhere on a constant basis, like say an electrical company, I don't say "Oh, it's your techs fault." I simply say may grevience and find another place to deal with. It's the dealers fault if they can't hire and keep compenent techs. That my friend is a formula for a going out of business sale.
Most dealers are independently owned and operated. In the fifteen plus years that I've worked at GM dealers, not one of my paychecks came from GM. As for it being the dealers fault for not hiring and keeping competent techs, to a point I agree. Try to find a truly competent dealer level tech, it's not easy.
Try to look at it from a different point of view. Do you have a job? Do you work with other people in the same department? Do you all have the same level of competence, take the same pride in your work? I'm thinking that if you work in a place with more than 2 employees doing the same type of job for any real length of time, you'll quickly see what I'm getting at.
Senior Member
Joined: 01-25-2010
Posts: 640
From: Marietta, PA
And you also made my point. case in point:
I once went to dealer, for convienence, was closer for a warrenty issue. They refused to fix it. Went to another dealer substantially further. They did offer to fix it. Once again had a problem with the car. Went to the same close dealer. Tech didn't fix the problem correctly and actually made it worse so I went to the other dealer again. Their tech did fix it correcly.
I since then have refused to go to the dealer who is not competent and drive to the dealer who, not only is competent but takes the time to actually do the job when it is a warrenty issue.
Like the original poster, and many posts on the subject since then, when the dealer and techs refuse to do things correctly, they take it upon themselves to do the job the dealer will not, but should.
Being an A/V electronics technician myself working and installing massive sound systems in stadiums and theaters, that is something I can appreciate and especially if I'm the one spending my hard earned money. We all want the service and customer support one should expect spending their hard earned money.
The other dealer BTW......had enough issues in the service department and word got around. People eventually didn't buy there and they went under.
I once went to dealer, for convienence, was closer for a warrenty issue. They refused to fix it. Went to another dealer substantially further. They did offer to fix it. Once again had a problem with the car. Went to the same close dealer. Tech didn't fix the problem correctly and actually made it worse so I went to the other dealer again. Their tech did fix it correcly.
I since then have refused to go to the dealer who is not competent and drive to the dealer who, not only is competent but takes the time to actually do the job when it is a warrenty issue.
Like the original poster, and many posts on the subject since then, when the dealer and techs refuse to do things correctly, they take it upon themselves to do the job the dealer will not, but should.
Being an A/V electronics technician myself working and installing massive sound systems in stadiums and theaters, that is something I can appreciate and especially if I'm the one spending my hard earned money. We all want the service and customer support one should expect spending their hard earned money.
The other dealer BTW......had enough issues in the service department and word got around. People eventually didn't buy there and they went under.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 07-23-2008
Posts: 1,148
From: Peoria, AZ
A good solder is like a good weld, it won't break or damage the other metal. Mine are fine soldering and I used a very small solder so melting was quik with low tempeture heat. So far, I and anyone that has had their stuff soldiered have had no issues.
I apologize if this was covered, but I didn't read all 7 pages so....
Soldering wiring is trickier than it sounds. Too much heat will make the wire brittle and break at the rear of the solder joint. An acquaintance who is an aircraft mechanic told me the never solder wires on aircraft for just that reason. I found out the hard way when I built a 68 HD Sportster and soldered all the connectors on the wires, 6 months ride time and electrical problems were cropping up all over. I ended up ripping all the wiring out and rewired using aircraft grade connectors and bought the VERY expensive crimp tool for them. 12 years of riding after that without a single wiring failure.
Soldering wiring is trickier than it sounds. Too much heat will make the wire brittle and break at the rear of the solder joint. An acquaintance who is an aircraft mechanic told me the never solder wires on aircraft for just that reason. I found out the hard way when I built a 68 HD Sportster and soldered all the connectors on the wires, 6 months ride time and electrical problems were cropping up all over. I ended up ripping all the wiring out and rewired using aircraft grade connectors and bought the VERY expensive crimp tool for them. 12 years of riding after that without a single wiring failure.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 07-23-2008
Posts: 1,148
From: Peoria, AZ
Not to mention they ignore the problem by replacing parts that do nothing to fix the problem. I knew what the problem was but they were like deer in headlights. I was getting a MAF code but it wasn't the MAF, it was what we all figured. Still today, nothing and not even a wink of a problem.
Oh I do need to replace brakes now. LOL
Oh I do need to replace brakes now. LOL
And you also made my point. case in point:
I once went to dealer, for convienence, was closer for a warrenty issue. They refused to fix it. Went to another dealer substantially further. They did offer to fix it. Once again had a problem with the car. Went to the same close dealer. Tech didn't fix the problem correctly and actually made it worse so I went to the other dealer again. Their tech did fix it correcly.
I since then have refused to go to the dealer who is not competent and drive to the dealer who, not only is competent but takes the time to actually do the job when it is a warrenty issue.
Like the original poster, and many posts on the subject since then, when the dealer and techs refuse to do things correctly, they take it upon themselves to do the job the dealer will not, but should.
Being an A/V electronics technician myself working and installing massive sound systems in stadiums and theaters, that is something I can appreciate and especially if I'm the one spending my hard earned money. We all want the service and customer support one should expect spending their hard earned money.
The other dealer BTW......had enough issues in the service department and word got around. People eventually didn't buy there and they went under.
I once went to dealer, for convienence, was closer for a warrenty issue. They refused to fix it. Went to another dealer substantially further. They did offer to fix it. Once again had a problem with the car. Went to the same close dealer. Tech didn't fix the problem correctly and actually made it worse so I went to the other dealer again. Their tech did fix it correcly.
I since then have refused to go to the dealer who is not competent and drive to the dealer who, not only is competent but takes the time to actually do the job when it is a warrenty issue.
Like the original poster, and many posts on the subject since then, when the dealer and techs refuse to do things correctly, they take it upon themselves to do the job the dealer will not, but should.
Being an A/V electronics technician myself working and installing massive sound systems in stadiums and theaters, that is something I can appreciate and especially if I'm the one spending my hard earned money. We all want the service and customer support one should expect spending their hard earned money.
The other dealer BTW......had enough issues in the service department and word got around. People eventually didn't buy there and they went under.
Senior Member
Joined: 05-10-2008
Posts: 314
From: Illinois
I wish my car would throw a code. I am waiting for the problem to happen again. My car surges, idles rough, and occasionally will lose turbo pressure all together. No CEL or codes and the dealer can never recreate the problem. Ugh!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 07-23-2008
Posts: 1,148
From: Peoria, AZ
Senior Member
Joined: 05-10-2008
Posts: 314
From: Illinois
Where do I start? I have a thread here https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/problems-service-repairs-42/not-again-31478/
2008 HHR SS AT with Stage Kit 29,200 miles
Been experiencing turbo cut out issues since November 2009 and when it first happened it tripped the CEL and the dealer replaced a MAP sensor. It happened a few more times in the winter and I checked that they replaced the sensor with the correct part. I brought it back in with the problem and they would not go for a ride with a diagnostic computer but they adjusted the wastegate but the problem happened a couple months later and all they did was adjust the wastegate again saying it was throwing an overboost. I brought it in a few times after that and every time they said there was no problem they could see or recreate.
Once it warmed outside up it did not happen again until it got real hot and I was actually at a show at Rockenbach chevy on real hot day and they did go for a ride with a computer and they said it was throwing an underboost this time and made another adjustment to the wastegate. Rockenback said they inspected the whole system and said they recommend the wastegate acuator solenoid be replaced if it happens again. Well in August we had some really hot and humid days and the problem happened repeatedly with many times the car having no turbo even at start up. This is when the surging and rough idle also began which I still feel from time to time especially when the car is first started even if I let it warm up a little bit. I spoke with the dealer owner who is a friend of my dads and he spoke with the Service manager and said that they would hook me up with a black box recorder when the problem starts happening again which I suspect will be when it gets cold out again. It seems that when the car is under more stress (hot or cold outside) and the heat or air is running the loss of turbo problem happens pretty frequently.
I am at a loss and seem to think there is a leak somewhere as I have heard whistling noises that sound like a belt squeak but a bit more like a chirp like air leaking out somewhere.
2008 HHR SS AT with Stage Kit 29,200 miles
Been experiencing turbo cut out issues since November 2009 and when it first happened it tripped the CEL and the dealer replaced a MAP sensor. It happened a few more times in the winter and I checked that they replaced the sensor with the correct part. I brought it back in with the problem and they would not go for a ride with a diagnostic computer but they adjusted the wastegate but the problem happened a couple months later and all they did was adjust the wastegate again saying it was throwing an overboost. I brought it in a few times after that and every time they said there was no problem they could see or recreate.
Once it warmed outside up it did not happen again until it got real hot and I was actually at a show at Rockenbach chevy on real hot day and they did go for a ride with a computer and they said it was throwing an underboost this time and made another adjustment to the wastegate. Rockenback said they inspected the whole system and said they recommend the wastegate acuator solenoid be replaced if it happens again. Well in August we had some really hot and humid days and the problem happened repeatedly with many times the car having no turbo even at start up. This is when the surging and rough idle also began which I still feel from time to time especially when the car is first started even if I let it warm up a little bit. I spoke with the dealer owner who is a friend of my dads and he spoke with the Service manager and said that they would hook me up with a black box recorder when the problem starts happening again which I suspect will be when it gets cold out again. It seems that when the car is under more stress (hot or cold outside) and the heat or air is running the loss of turbo problem happens pretty frequently.
I am at a loss and seem to think there is a leak somewhere as I have heard whistling noises that sound like a belt squeak but a bit more like a chirp like air leaking out somewhere.
Member
Joined: 09-27-2010
Posts: 68
From: Scranton, PA
After purchasing my '10 SS, it went right into the shop for a CEL and no boost. After a few days of watching them scratch their heads, I suggested that they have a look at the turbo / intercooler piping. They ignored me and replaced a MAF and a MAP. Then they looked at the piping and found:
