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Help oil in coolant.

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Old 01-02-2016, 07:55 PM
  #21  
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Heads planed. Gaskets replaced.mechanics said they flushed radiator 26 times. Still oil going into radiator. Now a small amount of coolant going into oil. What is wrong?
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Old 01-02-2016, 08:02 PM
  #22  
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help oil in coolant

Yes it is a 2008 SS with 71k miles.
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:16 PM
  #23  
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This sure sounds like it may be a porosity block failure problem. It has been a documented issue that affects some 2008 2.0 LNF engines.
Not sure how your mechanics tested for a cracked or leaking block.

If it was mine, I would drop the oil pan, pressurize the cooling system and check for coolant intrusion into the oil pan block area.
If you do this and place a clean drip pan below the engine, any leaking coolant should drop down into the pan and be visible.
What I've read says the the trouble area is normally found to be between the cylinders.
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:40 PM
  #24  
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It still might be a cracked oil cooler.
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Old 01-03-2016, 01:31 AM
  #25  
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George has outlined your next step in Post #24, at this point it's the only logical course of action.

If the block is bad, then it's time to get Chevrolet involved, call 'em at 1-800-222-1020 Monday through Saturday 9am-8pm.

Or contact the General Manager at your local Chevy Dealership and have them contact the GM Zone Representative, give them all of the pertinent info and go from there.
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Old 01-03-2016, 08:32 AM
  #26  
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It is possible for the water pump gasket to be the problem! Usually goes the other way though.
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Old 01-12-2016, 07:02 PM
  #27  
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Was told porous block.gm won't pay for new engine.I am now beyond f###ed. Mechanics told me they had to run their own diagnostics.said it was head gasket.wanted to be paid up front before fixing.1500 dollars later they said we can't fix it.left the engine tore apart and sent me a bill for an additional 160. Only70 k on engine. Gm should pony up?
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Old 01-12-2016, 10:44 PM
  #28  
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They should but they wont! Sorry to hear about that Jeff. I wouldn't say your beyond anything though. Your options are limited though... how tore apart is it? You could use any block 2.0, 2.2, 2.4. Internally they are identical. You'll need to bring your crank over from the 2.0L. If you're planning on dumping anything let me know. I'm always scooping up parts. Your best bet is a GEN LDK block, which i think could be had for around 500(not sure, haven't been over to ZZP in a while) I understand your frustration, we only drove our SS for 500 miles before completely gutting it. Unfortunately, you've already put out TONS of cash on a bad deal.
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