SS Specific Service Issues/Repairs Service/Repairs specific to the SS. Turbo-Brembo Brakes-2.0 Engine-Limited Slip Differential-Programmable Display-MU3 Transmission

Intermittant boost problem.

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Old 04-14-2011, 05:05 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by IgottaWoody
No boost in neutral...no load....no requirements to HAVE boost in neutral..I'm sure Hyper clued you in there
I understand why they have it set not to boost. What I mean is "what physically is happening to not create boost?".

The ECM tells the "what" to have the wastegate open so as to not create boost. ????

What tells the ECM that I'm in nuetral, clutch in, or whatever???

Could that be not functioning properly.
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Old 04-14-2011, 05:12 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by IgottaWoody
I learned about neutral drops the hard way...sheared an input shaft on a '68 Javalin showing off in a parking lot, had "J" bars on too otherwise it would have just spun.Oh the younger days..........
Made a poll, because one GMPD engineer is trying to tell my dealer & me that 40% less power in 1st gear should be normal. I call BS. I have had full power & boost in all gear for 9200 miles and 2 engines. If they think they will pull this over on me, I don't think so. They will buy the car back and it will nix me ever buying another GM.

Please check thread and vote.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/hhr-ss-45/your-1st-gear-boost-same-similar-higher-gears-35107/
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Old 04-14-2011, 05:18 PM
  #63  
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OH and I'm also talking to a district specialist who is also bringing a factory sales rep into the issue. I sure hope they are all able to help. I only have 7 weeks till the HHR G2G
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:33 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Gas Man
Made a poll, because one GMPD engineer is trying to tell my dealer & me that 40% less power in 1st gear should be normal. I call BS. I have had full power & boost in all gear for 9200 miles and 2 engines. If they think they will pull this over on me, I don't think so. They will buy the car back and it will nix me ever buying another GM.

Please check thread and vote.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=35107
Just because you have PSI in first does not mean the engine is make full power. The engine managment is in action and will paly with the power to keep your tranny alive.

Trust me the Auto will not take full power in 1st many times. The computer in this car and others can do some amazing things to keep the tranny alive.

The No Lift shift is a good example of full PSI but you can clutch the engine and shift with out damaging anything. Trust me it is not putting full power to the wheels when the clutch goes down even if it has full boost. Full engine power and power to the wheels can vary. Modern turbos are not like the old days where everything worked the same no mattter what. Today the electronics make them more drivable and less lag.

Anyone who has driven a turbo from the 80's can tell you todays turbos are a whole new breed. Little to no lag. more power and better efficency. Some of this is to better turbo design but most is to better computer engine managment.

I am not sure of all the ways they control it as GM tries to keep their secerets. It is even hard to say what perventage you are as as it will vary under the conditions the traction, engine and tranny are under.

I and sure that 1st gear is managed hard yet while 2nd gear is much less managed. I get more pull in second gear than any. 3rd is good but is limited as the speed it up on the car. 4th is pretty much just rolling down the road looking for MPG. 1st is better than the factory set up but I can't see it at full 290 HP even trying to get to the wheels.

Another reason to keep 1st gear power down is with FWD traction is limited anyways. The weight transfer to the rear unloads the tires and makes it hard to hook up anyways. At time less power is more tractions and better performance. It is like when I autocross. There are time when I drive out of corners slower and have a faster over all time as I am hooking up better. The saying is true less is some times more.

This is not to say you don't have any issues with your SS but I do believe it is true that we do not get full power to the wheels in first gear.
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:37 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Gas Man
I understand why they have it set not to boost. What I mean is "what physically is happening to not create boost?".

The ECM tells the "what" to have the wastegate open so as to not create boost. ????

What tells the ECM that I'm in nuetral, clutch in, or whatever???

Could that be not functioning properly.
I expect the waste gate bleeds some off as the car can tell what gear you are in. It is like if you try to rev most of todays cars in park or neutral they will only rev to 3000-3500 RPM. Engine management controls everyting. Many managment systems will adjust to your driving style too. The new computers are amazing what all they can do on todays cars. Since the MFG don't release much info few people really know what all they can do. Heck they can even tell what is wrong with your radio now.
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:44 PM
  #66  
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Here is a little accurate info I found from GM on the Upgrade kit.

#1 The upgrade kit does not do anything under 2500 RPM. This is to maintain the engine life. The manual transmissions have been reported to fracture the case due to excessive wheel hop. The upgrade kit does not change the transmission calibration in any way.

#2 Power is peaking at 4800 to 5100 rpm. The trans cal is made to take advantage of the torque curve.

#3 There is no difference in the calibration for the decel enleanment. Throttle position is what is used to shut the fuel off.
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Old 04-16-2011, 10:32 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by hyperv6
Just because you have PSI in first does not mean the engine is make full power. The engine managment is in action and will paly with the power to keep your tranny alive.

Trust me the Auto will not take full power in 1st many times. The computer in this car and others can do some amazing things to keep the tranny alive.

The No Lift shift is a good example of full PSI but you can clutch the engine and shift with out damaging anything. Trust me it is not putting full power to the wheels when the clutch goes down even if it has full boost. Full engine power and power to the wheels can vary. Modern turbos are not like the old days where everything worked the same no mattter what. Today the electronics make them more drivable and less lag.

Anyone who has driven a turbo from the 80's can tell you todays turbos are a whole new breed. Little to no lag. more power and better efficency. Some of this is to better turbo design but most is to better computer engine managment.

I am not sure of all the ways they control it as GM tries to keep their secerets. It is even hard to say what perventage you are as as it will vary under the conditions the traction, engine and tranny are under.

I and sure that 1st gear is managed hard yet while 2nd gear is much less managed. I get more pull in second gear than any. 3rd is good but is limited as the speed it up on the car. 4th is pretty much just rolling down the road looking for MPG. 1st is better than the factory set up but I can't see it at full 290 HP even trying to get to the wheels.

Another reason to keep 1st gear power down is with FWD traction is limited anyways. The weight transfer to the rear unloads the tires and makes it hard to hook up anyways. At time less power is more tractions and better performance. It is like when I autocross. There are time when I drive out of corners slower and have a faster over all time as I am hooking up better. The saying is true less is some times more.

This is not to say you don't have any issues with your SS but I do believe it is true that we do not get full power to the wheels in first gear.
Again Scott... I have a power (hp & torque) gauge in my display. The car is no doing 40% less power in first gear than it ALWAYS has, since before I even purchased it. ALWAYS! 9k+ miles & 2 engines. That is the car I purchased not this. I have drawn my line in the sand. They will own that car again if they think I will settle for this.

Originally Posted by hyperv6
I expect the waste gate bleeds some off as the car can tell what gear you are in. It is like if you try to rev most of today's cars in park or neutral they will only rev to 3000-3500 RPM. Engine management controls everything. Many management systems will adjust to your driving style too. The new computers are amazing what all they can do on todays cars. Since the MFG don't release much info few people really know what all they can do. Heck they can even tell what is wrong with your radio now.
I agree, the waste gate is obviously open. However, why, and what tells the ECM or waste gate to do that? I'm trying to find out if that sensor (where ever it is) could be faulty.
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:00 PM
  #68  
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You know what I always say? It's in my sig...

Well here's an example why... this piece of wire loom was over 4 small wires that are shown below. STUPID!!! Like a hotdog down a hallway. After the pics below I replaced it with the correct size.


Here's a pic of the wires. You can see that the dealer did soldier it with shrink wrap.


There is no evidence of rubbing, but I did re-route it as shown (but with new wire loom) to keep it away from the a/c compressor.


I also checked the PCV hose shown here for wear, but nothing looked bad. Still working on it myself... it may go back to another dealership. I'm also TRYING to work with GM District Specialist, IF I can get her to call me back!!! Grrr
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Old 09-11-2013, 04:58 PM
  #69  
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If your car has the stage 1 kit cut the crimps out and re-solder. That most certainly is the issue. My crimps looked perfect, but I cut them and soldered them anyways and indeed I have full boost all the time now. Oooh it is good to have the boost back.
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