Need help no boost
Senior Member
Joined: 04-26-2009
Posts: 669
From: City of Champions
For sure you needed a tune on that....
The K&N system doesn't need a tune.
The K&N filter doesn't need a tune, when used in place of the stock filter.
The K & N system was designed to just remove the slight restriction of the stock intake tube.
All other brand X intakes try to re-invent the wheel, & everyone of them need lots of help to run right.
The K&N system doesn't need a tune.
The K&N filter doesn't need a tune, when used in place of the stock filter.
The K & N system was designed to just remove the slight restriction of the stock intake tube.
All other brand X intakes try to re-invent the wheel, & everyone of them need lots of help to run right.
Senior Member
Joined: 04-09-2010
Posts: 192
From: Northern Virginia
For sure you needed a tune on that....
The K&N system doesn't need a tune.
The K&N filter doesn't need a tune, when used in place of the stock filter.
The K & N system was designed to just remove the slight restriction of the stock intake tube.
All other brand X intakes try to re-invent the wheel, & everyone of them need lots of help to run right.
The K&N system doesn't need a tune.
The K&N filter doesn't need a tune, when used in place of the stock filter.
The K & N system was designed to just remove the slight restriction of the stock intake tube.
All other brand X intakes try to re-invent the wheel, & everyone of them need lots of help to run right.
Not all cars are the same. It's been stated on this forum MANY times that any aftermarket intake system including just the K&N filter swap can set codes and cause limp home mode. This is not a subject for debate just a fact. My car with lid off CODE and LIMP. K&N installed CODE and LIMP. However going into limp I still get 5 psi and it won't shift until a very high rpm. Zero psi sounds odd. Look at the gauge next time and make sure it is acually zero and doesn't just "feel" like it. Put paper back in and if the problem goes away you need a tune. If the problem returns the it's clearly something else.
When you have a problem with your car it's never helpful to hear from the dozens of people that "have never had a problem", it's better to hear suggestions of what the actual problem might be.
Someday I'll tune for the K&N but for now it sits it's box on the laundry room floor...
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 08-07-2011
Posts: 553
From: Montebello, CA
It was 0 boost. Believe me I checked. Either way I'm switching everything back to stock including the filter and BPV and see what happens
Not all cars are the same. It's been stated on this forum MANY times that any aftermarket intake system including just the K&N filter swap can set codes and cause limp home mode. This is not a subject for debate just a fact. My car with lid off CODE and LIMP. K&N installed CODE and LIMP. However going into limp I still get 5 psi and it won't shift until a very high rpm. Zero psi sounds odd. Look at the gauge next time and make sure it is acually zero and doesn't just "feel" like it. Put paper back in and if the problem goes away you need a tune. If the problem returns the it's clearly something else.
When you have a problem with your car it's never helpful to hear from the dozens of people that "have never had a problem", it's better to hear suggestions of what the actual problem might be.
Someday I'll tune for the K&N but for now it sits it's box on the laundry room floor...
When you have a problem with your car it's never helpful to hear from the dozens of people that "have never had a problem", it's better to hear suggestions of what the actual problem might be.
Someday I'll tune for the K&N but for now it sits it's box on the laundry room floor...
Senior Member
Joined: 04-26-2009
Posts: 669
From: City of Champions
Some guys will take the easy way out, & change some cells in the MAF freq table, which is just putting a "band-aid" , on the real problem, & that's your so called "tune".
So are you going to "re-tune" , everytime you change your filter ?
You have a real problem with the new filter, or the MAF sensor, that needs fixed.
You need linear air flow across the MAF sensor.
Engines used to come with a HoneyComb MAF Mass Air Meter Airflow Straightener.
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...r+Airflow+Stra
Because we don't have a HoneyComb MAF Mass Air Meter Airflow Straightener, you must maintain this linear air flow across the MAF sensor.
The stock filter is so restrictive, it has no problem keeping linear air flow, across the MAF sensor.
If your replacement K&N air filter is defective in any way, you will lose linear air flow across the MAF sensor.
If the pleats are damaged, too thick in different areas, oil soaked in spots, or one side, ect, this will cause non-linear air flow across the MAF sensor.
Some guys will even rotate the bad filter, untill the filter is located in a "sweet spot", that the MAF sensor can deal with.
I would get another K&N filter, before attacking the MAF freq table.
The complete K&N intake system can replace the stock system, without a tune. It's just a new piece of properly re-engineered tubing, that removes the factory restriction point, down near the turbo, + the low restriction filter. You don't need the cheap K&N lid, as the factory lid can be modified to work.
In fact , a lot of guys are just ordering the K&N replacement tubing & filter, instead ofbuying the kit. A lot cheaper that way.
With this kit, the proper relationship, with the MAF sensor, is maintained, so no tune is needed.
With all other intake systems, a tune is mandatory, as they are engineered incorrectly. Simply by adding a HoneyComb MAF Mass Air Meter Airflow Straightener, may make some of these systems function properly, with the stock MAF sensor.
Or, put your new K&N filter in a container of really hot water.
Let it soak for 10 minutes, than move it back & forth, for a few minutes.
This will even out the oil, if it was over oiled in spots, or too thick, in areas.
Remove, & let it dry out for a few days, then try it.
Yes they are.
Again, I would try another filter , or MAf sensor before changing the MAF freq table.
I would say that the linear air flow across the MAF sensor is really being screwed up, with the turbulence created by removing the lid.
Thoughts about the stock air intake system.
1. It looks like ****.
2. It really works well
3. It is a true fresh air system, getting colder than engine compartment air, from the inner fender well.
4. The K&N intake system improves the stock system , by removing the tubing, & filter restrictions.
5. It really really looks like ****.
Thoughts about OPs problem.
1. Boost leak.
2. GMTU sensor problem, bad/leaking/o-ring/connection/hitting
3. His K&N filter is fine, unless the clamp became lose.
Last edited by 2005HHRauto; Jan 17, 2013 at 07:43 AM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 08-07-2011
Posts: 553
From: Montebello, CA
Where can I buy just the K&N intake tube?
There's no way that you should need a tune for just a simple filter change.
Some guys will take the easy way out, & change some cells in the MAF freq table, which is just putting a "band-aid" , on the real problem, & that's your so called "tune".
So are you going to "re-tune" , everytime you change your filter ?
You have a real problem with the new filter, or the MAF sensor, that needs fixed.
You need linear air flow across the MAF sensor.
Engines used to come with a HoneyComb MAF Mass Air Meter Airflow Straightener.
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...r+Airflow+Stra
Because we don't have a HoneyComb MAF Mass Air Meter Airflow Straightener, you must maintain this linear air flow across the MAF sensor.
The stock filter is so restrictive, it has no problem keeping linear air flow, across the MAF sensor.
If your replacement K&N air filter is defective in any way, you will lose linear air flow across the MAF sensor.
If the pleats are damaged, too thick in different areas, oil soaked in spots, or one side, ect, this will cause non-linear air flow across the MAF sensor.
Some guys will even rotate the bad filter, untill the filter is located in a "sweet spot", that the MAF sensor can deal with.
I would get another K&N filter, before attacking the MAF freq table.
The complete K&N intake system can replace the stock system, without a tune. It's just a new piece of properly re-engineered tubing, that removes the factory restriction point, down near the turbo, + the low restriction filter. You don't need the cheap K&N lid, as the factory lid can be modified to work.
In fact , a lot of guys are just ordering the K&N replacement tubing & filter, instead ofbuying the kit. A lot cheaper that way.
With this kit, the proper relationship, with the MAF sensor, is maintained, so no tune is needed.
With all other intake systems, a tune is mandatory, as they are engineered incorrectly. Simply by adding a HoneyComb MAF Mass Air Meter Airflow Straightener, may make some of these systems function properly, with the stock MAF sensor.
Try another K&N filter, before changing your MAF freq table.
Or, put your new K&N filter in a container of really hot water.
Let it soak for 10 minutes, than move it back & forth, for a few minutes.
This will even out the oil, if it was over oiled in spots, or too thick, in areas.
Remove, & let it dry out for a few days, then try it.
Yes they are.
Again, I would try another filter , or MAf sensor before changing the MAF freq table.
I would say that the linear air flow across the MAF sensor is really being screwed up, with the turbulence created by removing the lid.
Thoughts about the stock air intake system.
1. It looks like ****.
2. It really works well
3. It is a true fresh air system, getting colder than engine compartment air, from the inner fender well.
4. The K&N intake system improves the stock system , by removing the tubing, & filter restrictions.
5. It really really looks like ****.
Thoughts about OPs problem.
1. Boost leak.
2. GMTU sensor problem, bad/leaking/o-ring/connection/hitting
3. His K&N filter is fine, unless the clamp became lose.
Some guys will take the easy way out, & change some cells in the MAF freq table, which is just putting a "band-aid" , on the real problem, & that's your so called "tune".
So are you going to "re-tune" , everytime you change your filter ?
You have a real problem with the new filter, or the MAF sensor, that needs fixed.
You need linear air flow across the MAF sensor.
Engines used to come with a HoneyComb MAF Mass Air Meter Airflow Straightener.
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...r+Airflow+Stra
Because we don't have a HoneyComb MAF Mass Air Meter Airflow Straightener, you must maintain this linear air flow across the MAF sensor.
The stock filter is so restrictive, it has no problem keeping linear air flow, across the MAF sensor.
If your replacement K&N air filter is defective in any way, you will lose linear air flow across the MAF sensor.
If the pleats are damaged, too thick in different areas, oil soaked in spots, or one side, ect, this will cause non-linear air flow across the MAF sensor.
Some guys will even rotate the bad filter, untill the filter is located in a "sweet spot", that the MAF sensor can deal with.
I would get another K&N filter, before attacking the MAF freq table.
The complete K&N intake system can replace the stock system, without a tune. It's just a new piece of properly re-engineered tubing, that removes the factory restriction point, down near the turbo, + the low restriction filter. You don't need the cheap K&N lid, as the factory lid can be modified to work.
In fact , a lot of guys are just ordering the K&N replacement tubing & filter, instead ofbuying the kit. A lot cheaper that way.
With this kit, the proper relationship, with the MAF sensor, is maintained, so no tune is needed.
With all other intake systems, a tune is mandatory, as they are engineered incorrectly. Simply by adding a HoneyComb MAF Mass Air Meter Airflow Straightener, may make some of these systems function properly, with the stock MAF sensor.
Try another K&N filter, before changing your MAF freq table.
Or, put your new K&N filter in a container of really hot water.
Let it soak for 10 minutes, than move it back & forth, for a few minutes.
This will even out the oil, if it was over oiled in spots, or too thick, in areas.
Remove, & let it dry out for a few days, then try it.
Yes they are.
Again, I would try another filter , or MAf sensor before changing the MAF freq table.
I would say that the linear air flow across the MAF sensor is really being screwed up, with the turbulence created by removing the lid.
Thoughts about the stock air intake system.
1. It looks like ****.
2. It really works well
3. It is a true fresh air system, getting colder than engine compartment air, from the inner fender well.
4. The K&N intake system improves the stock system , by removing the tubing, & filter restrictions.
5. It really really looks like ****.
Thoughts about OPs problem.
1. Boost leak.
2. GMTU sensor problem, bad/leaking/o-ring/connection/hitting
3. His K&N filter is fine, unless the clamp became lose.
