SS Specific Service Issues/Repairs Service/Repairs specific to the SS. Turbo-Brembo Brakes-2.0 Engine-Limited Slip Differential-Programmable Display-MU3 Transmission

Need help no boost

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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 06:20 PM
  #31  
C-DUB's Avatar
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From: Langley BC
Too damn cold to swap Valve today, will do this weekend at Cousins shop
Old Jan 22, 2013 | 09:48 PM
  #32  
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From: HuskerNation
Originally Posted by foxtrotraptor
Ok keep me posted. I put the stock one back in. No problems yet except I'm not boosting as consistent and as fast as before, I'm assuming because the stock BPV is back in? But the odd thing is when I boost I boost high like almost at 25PSI which I never saw when I had the Forge BPV in. I guess the only is to swap it back and see what happens?? Idk
I don't understand how you have 0 boost and there is no CEL. When the problem shows up, you should keep flooring it over and over until the CEL lights up. Don't turn off the car until you are ready to scan code. If your OnStar is still active, you can hit the OnStar button and ask what the code is.
Old Jan 22, 2013 | 10:09 PM
  #33  
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From: Montebello, CA
Originally Posted by XtremeSS
I don't understand how you have 0 boost and there is no CEL. When the problem shows up, you should keep flooring it over and over until the CEL lights up. Don't turn off the car until you are ready to scan code. If your OnStar is still active, you can hit the OnStar button and ask what the code is.
Idk either man but I drove like that for 10 miles and didn't get any codes. I honestly don't know what happen. Next time if it ever happens again I'm goin straight to the dealer
Old Jan 23, 2013 | 12:08 AM
  #34  
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No codes on mine either.

Booted from a roll this morning, boost spiked up for a second then went to zero and it fell on its face. Revs continue to go up but its running N/A power wise. Can't hear the turbo at all and when I let off couldn't hear anything either...

I do have a hidden Trifecta tune over my GMTU, so I am going to do a datalog with just the GMTU active and send it to Vince, maybe he will be able to see something.
Old Jan 23, 2013 | 01:13 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by C-DUB
No codes on mine either.

Booted from a roll this morning, boost spiked up for a second then went to zero and it fell on its face. Revs continue to go up but its running N/A power wise. Can't hear the turbo at all and when I let off couldn't hear anything either...

I do have a hidden Trifecta tune over my GMTU, so I am going to do a datalog with just the GMTU active and send it to Vince, maybe he will be able to see something.
Yeah let us know what he says. I'm stumpped. :/
Old Jan 23, 2013 | 11:42 AM
  #36  
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From: HuskerNation
Originally Posted by C-DUB
No codes on mine either.

Booted from a roll this morning, boost spiked up for a second then went to zero and it fell on its face. Revs continue to go up but its running N/A power wise. Can't hear the turbo at all and when I let off couldn't hear anything either...

I do have a hidden Trifecta tune over my GMTU, so I am going to do a datalog with just the GMTU active and send it to Vince, maybe he will be able to see something.
Since you have the trifecta EZ flash software, you are also able to view and clear CEL. Sometimes, a code is stored and CEL will not light up but you can still view the "stored" code through EZ flash. You would have to scan shortly after you experience the problem since the codes are not stored very long.
Old Jan 24, 2013 | 10:36 AM
  #37  
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No CEL sounds like a sensor wire....when I was going thru this I never had a light.
Old Jan 25, 2013 | 09:19 AM
  #38  
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Are you referring to the lower sensor attached to the charge pipe near the ac condenser? Or some other sensor?
Old Jan 30, 2013 | 09:50 AM
  #39  
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Victory is correct

Originally Posted by Victory Red SS
Not all cars are the same. It's been stated on this forum MANY times that any aftermarket intake system including just the K&N filter swap can set codes and cause limp home mode. This is not a subject for debate just a fact. My car with lid off CODE and LIMP. K&N installed CODE and LIMP. However going into limp I still get 5 psi and it won't shift until a very high rpm. Zero psi sounds odd. Look at the gauge next time and make sure it is acually zero and doesn't just "feel" like it. Put paper back in and if the problem goes away you need a tune. If the problem returns the it's clearly something else.
When you have a problem with your car it's never helpful to hear from the dozens of people that "have never had a problem", it's better to hear suggestions of what the actual problem might be.
Someday I'll tune for the K&N but for now it sits it's box on the laundry room floor...
Victory SS is correct. Anybody who says that you shouldn't have a problem simply hasn't had the problem. I had the same exact problem and all I did was swap the paper filter for a K&N and after a few months it suddenly started doing this same thing. I had it in the dealership and they couldn't ever figure it out and it took the nice members here to clue me in. I was also getting a CEL on occasion. I tested it by installing the paper filter back on and the car drove fine and the CEL went away.

What I ended up doing was buying the HP Tuners software and completely swapping out my intake with a new one, then tuning the MAF into tolerance. The ECU on the SS for "SOME" owners is very sensitive to changes in the intake, even a simple filter swap will throw it out of tolerance. Trust me, I spent MONTHS trying to figure it out and after about 3 days on this forum, I knew what the issue was and how to resolve it. Either put back the paper element and run stock, or have it tuned at a dyno shop to get the ECU to recognize the new readings from the MAF. Or like I did, buy a tuning software to do it yourself. If you are not interested in learning tuning software, then stick with the previous two options. Listen to those that have experienced the issue or helped others who experienced the issue. Not the ones who haven't.

But like Victory said, if you put the paper element back and it still has issues, then something else is wrong, like the MAF, BOV, or something like that. The no CEL is interesting.
Old Jan 30, 2013 | 10:54 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by C-DUB
Are you referring to the lower sensor attached to the charge pipe near the ac condenser? Or some other sensor?
Ya..lower..have to look real close as it will look normal when its not..if suspected, just zip tie the lower tube to the radiator to pull it away and test drive..if it still happens then keep looking



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