I was told I should finally get my car back tomorrow. The said the heads were not cracked or warped so hopefully with a new head gasket it doesn't over heat again

 

OK another update Car over heated again called dealership They had me rev the engine to 3500 RPM and I heard it gurgle then temp doped.
They believe there is air getting in somewhere in one of the hoses. so waiting on hoses to come in so I can get it done. .................................................
was told this could have been the culprit from the beginning. Air pocket no flow through water pump so that overheats gaskets disintegrate and clog the Radiator and thermostat. Dam AIR lol You just have to laugh because if I don't I just might cry.

 

The other night when I started my SS after sitting 4 hours, I found that I had no heat output but the engine was registering over 225°. I looked in my overflow tank and it appeared all but empty. Took it to the dealer the next morning. They replaced the thermostat under warranty and replaced both heater hoses (not under warranty) as they had said that one was leaking. I drove around my 'honey-do' route the next day and decided to check on the level in the over-flow bottle, it was empty! I took it back to the dealer and he topped it off (within an inch of the filler opening) and explained that it probably needed to burp the air out of the system. I understood. A day later I checked it again and found that it once again had emptied the bottle. Going out on a limb, I figured that the mechanic maybe had not opened the heater valve while changing everything and now I needed to burp that out too. A few more days went by and did not think too much about it. Then yesterday I stopped for some dinner and when I got out and closed the door, the cooling fan continued to run (never has this happened before and the outside temp was in the upper 70's). According to AllData; "After the vehicle is shut off, the Engine Coolant Temperature at key-off is greater than 140°C (284°F) and system voltage is more than 12 volts. The fans will stay on for approximately 3 minutes." I put the key back in and checked the digital readout and it read 233°. I checked the over-flow tank and... it was empty! I stopped and got some pre-mixed DexCool and proceeded to fill the tank with a little over a quart, up to within 2 inches of the opening. Before I was able to get the DexCool, I saw the upper 230°s and even 249°. Things seemed to go back to normal (197° - 203°) on the way home. When I got up this morning, I went out and checked the bottle... it was empty!! I looked under the car and saw no evidence (residue or puddle) that anything had been leaking. I checked the oil, it was full, but not over-full. I did have a horrible odor though, nothing that I had smelled with using Mobil 1 before. It didn't seem to be milky or muddy, just stunk!

I took it back to the dealer and explained as stated above. They did a pressure check on the cooling system (while the engine was hot) and did not find anything. Then they 'sniffed' the coolant with a 'turkey-baster' like tool that contained a deep blue fluid that would change to yellow if there had been any combustion contaminates in the coolant, it did not change color. Then one mechanic took his finger and wiped inside the tailpipe and was left with a wet-oily residue.

This morning when I started the engine cold, it made an awful racket like all the lifters had no oil in them and not until about 2 seconds time did it quiet down (again, had never occurred since before the original overheat). It has been doing this gradually since the first overheat.

My thoughts are that the coolant is leaking into a cylinder via blown head gasket and being burned leaving the residue in the tail pipe. And the 'rattling' is possibly the cylinder(s) hydraulic locking until they can push out the leaked coolant. I have lost nearly three full over-flow tanks worth of DexCool in the last week. The dealer cannot explain to me where the coolant is going, saying that while driving, the radiator cap is leaking and/or letting pressure out and increasing the amount the over-flow tank is holding and then pushing it out it's overflow pipe. I say, "then where's the residue under my car?" I asked about an oil-analysis... "we don't do those for this issue."

I was also about due for an oil change (at 18%). They asked how many miles was that since the last change, about 7400 - 8200mi I answered. They about fell over! "I don't recommend going anything over 5000mi, even with synthetic!" Then why have an oil monitor system??

I told them to keep the car overnight, because I want them to hear the ruckus it makes when starting cold. I also told them to change the oil and replace the radiator cap. That way, we can take that off the list of possibilities. How can I get them to look at this logically instead of financially? Anyone, thoughts? Chevy Mgr? ChevroletCustomerService?

 

From your description and details, it sure sounds like an internal leak. I would ask them to at least pull the sparkplugs and examine them for evidence of coolant burning.
Also I gather from your post that you may need to try another dealer. This one doesn't seem to be on the right track.

 

@ScroogeSS, I apologize for my time delay in getting with you about this as I was out of the office all last week since my husband had complications from surgery.

How are things going with the HHR? I would like to be brought up to speed about this to see what I might have available to assist.

Michelle, Chevrolet Customer Service

 

GM has a J tool specifically made for this type of diagnosis. The tool is also made in some of the aftermarket.

It simply is a radiator gap attached to a gage. The tool is installed with the engine cold. The vehicle is then started. If a head gasket is blown, the gage on the cap will increase pressure, faster than normal and generally higher. Now note, the gage WILL increase in pressure with a correct operating cooling system. The "faster than normal" is an important component. A relatively skilled technician should be able to differentiate.

 

Thank you all for your replies.

They kept it overnight. The following morning, the service rep said he was going to video the 'cold-start', but someone had already fired it up to moved it into the shop. When I went to see what progress they had made, around 1:30p, he said it was stable and purring smoothly. He said there was a 'vacuum line' that was off. After looking off to the side and rolling my eyes, I validated his attempt to satisfy the customer and tried to assume a plausible facial expression. I then left and went around the other side of the shop and struck-up a conversation with one of the mechanics I knew had been working on my car. He proceeded to tell me he could not find anything other than a loose coolant line at the turbo and also mentioned a 'vacuum line(?)' off at the turbo that would allow a noise similar to what I was describing during start-up. (really!!??)

They had driven it about 15 miles in between two occasions and did not have it overheat. The following morning, I went out armed with my camera-phone and documented a 'cold-start' myself. Much to my dismay... no ruckus! I looked at the over-flow tank and found it was empty again. I immediately drove to the dealer (4mi) and pulled into the service lane, popped the hood, and placed my flashlight down behind the tank. It was within its operating range!

I have since left the DIC on 'COOLANT' temp and it has not once gone above 205. In fact, it has latched onto 195 and stays within a degree or two (+ or -). I've driven a couple hundred miles since and tonight after driving 45miles home, allowed it to cool about 2 hours, the tank is once again empty. Is the level in the manual actually too low or is it set to where it will empty the tank upon cool down? There is also no coolant visible in the upper hose when I remove the 'radiator cap'... is this also normal?

 

"There is also no coolant visible in the upper hose when I remove the 'radiator cap'... is this also normal?"

No, that is not normal. Hose should be full..

I raised the level in my overflow jug, by about 2.5 inches & marked that level w/black sharpie.. I always felt the stock level was too low.

It never overflows & always has a decent amount in the jug..

Edit: but sounds like you are losing Dexcool internally.. That situation needs addressed.

 

I changed my oil and filter yesterday and this is what it looked like...


The valve assembly in the cap had separated (I reinserted it)...


And this is what the oil from it looked like after 9100mi(!) (I drive a lot of highway miles)... the oil monitor was at 13% (Mobil One & Filter)...


It seems that the filter was unable to do its job from the get-go. As the cap (anti-drainback?) valve was popped out of its seat, it allowed the oil to drain back down into the crankcase. This would have the engine starved for oil until pressure built up, like when happens when you change your oil and start it for the first time afterwards.

I'm going to run the new oil for maybe a 1000mi and then change it again and reset the monitor.

As for the coolant level, I did fill the tank up about 2 inches above the full mark and continue to monitor it closer.

Thank you all for your thoughts and recommendations.

 

[Please move these two posts to the correct thread, sorry]

What I want to stress about my prior post is, be CAREFUL when you screw in your oil filter. According to my past experience, you should be able to 'hand-screw' the cap to within a few last threads and then tighten with a wrench. Seeing what happened to my filter brings back the memory of having to wrench it most all the way down on the prior oil change. It must have come apart during installation and I did not realize it (the pictures speak for themselves).

Lastly, although I have been relying on the oil monitor system, I did not realize that my mileage had passed 9000mi within the last 4 months. Mobil 1 has an extended protection oil, guaranteed to 15,000mi, but I'm not quite sure for a turbo motor, that would be good.

How often does anyone else change their oil? Do you rely on the oil monitor or track your mileage?