SS Specific Service Issues/Repairs Service/Repairs specific to the SS. Turbo-Brembo Brakes-2.0 Engine-Limited Slip Differential-Programmable Display-MU3 Transmission

Rough idle, hesitation, 0304

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Old Aug 7, 2015 | 12:01 AM
  #31  
Dbeluscak's Avatar
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From: Cleveland, OH
I'd do a compression test first. As that will give you a good indication of the health of the individual cylinders. I would then, regardless of the test, pull the throttle body and clean it. It isn't hard to remove, just hard to see. The SS definitely has one. I cleaned mine and put the butterfly back in either upside-down or backwards(that's a definite NO NO) When I tried to start the car went into limp mode instantly. I'm not seeing any TB codes you reported. But it could also be a bad connection as ol' blue mentioned.

If you get through the compression test and want to check your throttle body you can shoot me a PM or just ask. I'll get you a quick how to on removing it. It can probably be done in 30 minutes or less with only a 10mm wrench and/or socket and that's it. (Oh, and you'll need pliers to remove the upper radiator hose)
Old Aug 8, 2015 | 05:09 PM
  #32  
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From: Ohio
Originally Posted by donbrew
So, you are saying the ABS system is causing a misfire in cylinder #4 (P0304)? Or, disabling the ABS keeps the ABS light from coming on because you have a misfire in cylinder #4?

I'm getting really confused. I don't know what the problem is a misfire or the ABS. Has anybody checked the ABS wiring or even put a tool on it?

A persistent misfire will make the T/C and ABS lights come on. Is that what we are dealing with?

The ABS system won't cause a misfire.

You can have enough misfires to cause trouble lights and you would never notice. The computer is trying to protect the (1)Calalytic Converter and the (2)people in the car.

Did you ever separate the UBEC halves? Did you ever inspect the ECM connector? At 105K it would not hurt to think about the VVT valves, they may be getting close to bad.
I'm confused also. All I know is that when i pulled the ABS fuse the misfire disappeared. I still hear and feel a very slight miss at idle but no more cutting out while driving. My traction control light, ABS light and brake light are all lit now but there is no misfire. Those light were not lit previously.

I was kinda thinking that maybe there is a short somewhere in the ubec that involves the abs and some sort of engine control causing the misfire. Like an arc between the two or something. I don't know. I'm going to call the mechanic and speak with him about it. See what he thinks.

I have not split the UBEC halves. Maybe that will be my next project when time permits.

You mentioned the valves...I am hearing a strange rattle that kinda reminds me of spark knock. I haven't pinpointed the source of the noise though. I was thinking maybe it needs a new timing set. IDK Thanks for all the input!
Old Aug 8, 2015 | 09:46 PM
  #33  
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Variable Valve Timing valves (solenoids), not valves. But rattle especially when cold could be timing chain, guides etc.
Old Aug 10, 2015 | 08:57 AM
  #34  
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From: Mebane, NC
Some of the rattle you hear is the DI injectors themselves, they make it sound somewhat like a diesel.
Old Aug 12, 2015 | 07:35 AM
  #35  
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It never rattled before. Just one day it started. And has become louder
Old Aug 12, 2015 | 08:08 AM
  #36  
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Sounds like the timing chain tensioner is shot, and or the guides!
I'd replace the chains and guides and sprockets, and while you're in there the water pump
Old Aug 19, 2015 | 06:33 PM
  #37  
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Great idea old blue
Old Aug 19, 2015 | 07:05 PM
  #38  
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I keep thinking I should change mine, I'm at 200,000 miles and the chains were changed at 58,000 miles I changed the tensioner at 87,000 miles and it isn't noisy so fingers crossed!
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