I think it is clear it is the connections. This only happens on the upgrade and even then it is not all of them. The connections are subject to how well they were installed by the dealer tech. He does it right it works he connects them incorrect you have issues.

I just wonder how many of the tech even use the correct crimper to install.
The majority are working fine so It has to be how they are connected on only a few vehicles. They have sold a lot of these kits and only a few have issues.

 

Seems like more than a few. Taking a representative sample just of the people on this forum who report having the issue, it must be a pretty widespread problem. This isn't taking into account people who don't even realize it's a problem.

My worries aren't so much for the short term - it sucks having to take my car in and be without it for x weeks at a time. I'm worried about the long term because I had really planned to keep this car a while. At this point, I'll be screwed if these electrical gremlins ever reproduce after my warranty is up.

On that note, I'm starting to wonder if this issue is pushing me into lemon law territory. I doubt that it is, but in order to protect myself once my warranty's up, it's something I'll have to look into. The guy who's been overseeing the servicing of my SS is a friend, and I trust him when he says they're doing all they can. That, and the dealership has a pretty stellar reputation for service. I don't want him to look bad at all, but at the same time I don't want my car to crap out at 36,001 miles and have no warranty to show for it, and be SOL.

At least as of this point, this will be the last GM product I plan to buy. Fool me once, etc. etc. etc.

 

The number of complaints are few in the big pictiure. Once you look at the number of HHR SS, or even the other cars with this engine the numbers are small. I know that does not help when you are one tha is having an issue. But the fact remains the problem cars are few.

Like stated many here that are having the issue have the upgrade we seldom see the issue without the upgrade. Even then no all are having this issue. You have three primary places the problem can be.

The wiring

The Computer program

The MAPs

If it were the program then I think near all would have the issue.

If it were the Map's changing them would have solved the issue.

The wiring in the other hand is a issue that can vary depending on the dealer and the tech that does the work.

Odds are one can have this solved if they have the connections fixed. Many here have already stated this. I know the connectors done properly will work. But GMPD has stated if you want to solder the joints that will work too if you support them with shrink sleeves.

The Solder may be the only path for those who can not get a properly trained tech to do the work.

In the big picutre the Lemon Law is out till you have eliminated all possibilities here.

I noted that you state too that somedays you see 23- 24 psi and other days 20 psi. This can happen based on weather and driving conditions you are in. It will not always hit that top number based on conditions.

What most are at issue with is 24 PSI and then 5-0 PSI as that is not normal.

One of tyhe biggest things I have seen here is Many just do not understand this engine and sometimes there is a problem and others there is no issue just a lack of knowledge of how the new engine works.

Your dealer may have a stellar rep but do they have a dedicated rep that handles the Turbo engines? I have that at mine and it is a God send. It is no different than having a good DR and having a heart specialist when the ticker is having issues.

I feel for you and understand the frustration. But keep it in perspective and learn all you can on this engine as that will let you know what is really going on and if the person you are dealing with knows his stuff.

The bottom line is there is a fix and right now it looks like the connections. There are too many others out there with no issues and the one common thing here that has solved the issue has been fixing the connection propelry.

THey are not easy to get too on the bottom map. I suspect this is where 90% of those who have problems are wired bad.

I have been in this game too long to just thow up the white flag as this. I know how it is like on the dealer end and the service you recieve is only as good as the tech doing the work. Just look around you where you work and see how many screw ups there are. Every place has them and they effect the out come.

Hell I have seen it at Hospitals. just because you have a DR in front does not mean you can't be an idiot too. Those are the ones that scare me.

I think if they connect the wire properly or solder them you will solve the issue.

 

Thanks for the post, I get your points. It's just frustrating. Only thing I have to add is that I wasn't the one talking about boost dropping from 23-24 to 20. I don't know a ton about the engine but I do know that the boost will fluctuate based on a number of factors like you said. I have mentioned the issue with it capping at 5-6 psi before though, and I know that that's a problem.

 

No problem!

I am stuck in line waiting for them to fix a 120mph roller coaster. I hope they know what they are doing.

I know cars test the.nerves. I had the issue where the map hit the AC. It is fix and we have been fine since.

Ok I am back we made it. I am at Cedar Point and just got off the big coaster.

Just keep in mind you are only one small fix way from getting this solved.

Well on to the next ride this one is300 plus feet high. The last was over 400 feet. I am getting too old for this. Lol

 

look st my posts from previous times. My vehicle was doing the same thing. i had Secret Services take the butt connections out. Solder the wires direcdtly together and never had the issue again

 

Yep that is the pattern I am seeing.

It is either poorly done connectors or a few have been Map clearance issues with the AC compressor.

When I would get on mine at a low speed it would torque the engine back and the connector would hit and kill the boost to nothing. But if I got on it at a higher speed or just eased into it it would get full boost.

A little time under the car I figured it out and GMPD said to shim the IC forward with fender washers. Since then problem solved.

So check the spacing and either get someone to crimp them right or solder them. Just make sure to support them or the solder can crack with age and normal use. It is not like a weld and is fragile. Shrink sleeves should help.

 

That roller coaster is in my bucket list..............
I tied my lower IC pipe back aqway from the AC compressor...still there and no ,more problems..will go in for perm fix before warrenty is up

 

I have the code set again and it hasnt gone off yet and the car stumbles. The dealer that said that they soldered the wires lied to me because there are only crimped connectors. I will most likely do the work that the dealer cant. even at my request they didnt do it..

 

Man it's getting worse and more constant. I found someone that will be doing the soldering and heat shrink on those connections. I told him that there were connectors. He said that the electronics on newer vehicles are very sensitive and any "ANY" corrosion can offset the volt reference. Connectors after a while will naturally corrode and even faster is it gets wet. From what he said, no vehicle electronics should have those types of connectors because of resistance it creates.
He works for Dodge on Vipers and work for Chevy for 15 years prior to moving to Dodge