Taking the vehicle isn't a waste of time. It's the best thing to do because it puts a paper trail in motion and gets things done. the symptons don't happen all the time with my vehicle. If it threw a code, then they could get the problem solved.

 

As reported early on in this thread, I had the same issue with my car about three weeks ago and while my car didn't throw a CEL, a code was still stored. Since many of you have been reporting similar issues as I did and have had no luck getting the problem resolved I decided to call the service manager where I had my car repaired to see if he would supply the code so that I can share it with you.

Here is the code my car had stored:
P0236 - Turbo Performance

The dealer called GM and they stated that it is an issue with the stage 1 kit connectors and asked my dealer to solder all connections which they did. I have to say, I have had no issues since.

I hope that helps some of you out there.

 

I had this happen last night, but i attributed it to the 101 temp and 95% humidity. I cleared the code and it ran almost normal this morning, but still seems a little laggy on throttle response. If it happens again, I'm calling the dealer since my connectors are still the splice ones.

 

This subject of soldering connections seems to keep being oversimplified. We're talking a car here, not life safety or mission criticality.

Does anyone have any idea what these connectors REALLY consist of? They are not the simple "crimp" and go like kids use on their audio systems or boat trailers. They are much more sophisticated than that. If a tech uses them as a simple, traditional crimp connector, then problems will certainly result. But the connectors that we are talking about in the ST1 kit are used in repairs of the supplimental restraint systems (LIFE SAFTEY) in many vehicles. I have used similar Molex connectors in my systems, but they are not automotive applications. The tooling to properly perform these connections is in the area of $5k. We do not solder the traditional way nor do we recommend it for what we need to accomplish.

I work as an engineer in mission critical facilities and can tell you that soldering is not as simple as it seems and is not a cure all. We use regimented "process" instead of personal "art" in connection splices order to guarantee system availability and consistency. Our systems undergo the ravages of continuous vibration and temperature variants (sound familiar?). If done CORRECTLY, of course soldering is a good fix, but it is not consistent (each tech has their own idea of what quality is). If PROPER proceedure is followed, I would trust the connectors in the kit over soldering in an UNCONTROLLED situation. An uncontrolled situation for me equals no quality control or predictive consistency.

I do not want to start a debate, but be clear on what you are dealing with in either case. Neither way of thinking should be dismissed as trivial as it has been in the past posts. Soldering is not simple to many and neither is a "crimp & seal" or "heated shrink tube splice connector". In either case, if either are done CORRECTLY, they will prove to be fault tolerant and reliable as they are is supplimental restraint systems and mission critical systems.

For more information, read on (and don't just look at the pictures; the explanations tell it all):

http://www.i-car.com/html_pages/tech...5/103105.shtml

 

Remember, I'm only sharing my story. What GM told my dealer to do is to have the tech solder the wires and not rely on the provided connectors from the stage kit. This is GM stating this not me or my dealer. I'm not an engineer nor have I worked on any cars since my 1989 IROC-Z. I leave the new stuff to the professionals. I assume that GM is providing guidiance on how the soldering should be performed to ensure that it's done correctly.

As I stated above, the soldering of the wires has worked for me but I'm not advocating that this fix will correct everyone's problems. My fix was done 3 weeks ago and all the hesitation and surging has disappeared.

Best of luck everyone!

 

I think he was just pointing out the connectors if done properly should be fine and that Soldering may or may not solve the issue as not everyone does it right.

So the short of it is if it ain't broke don't go to the dealer asking them to solder the wires. The guy may have done them right and the next guy could screw it up.

All of your info will prove to be helpful in the future if any of us have an issue. Just don't worry about it unless it happens and then do what was recomended then.

Who knows if this is wide spread enough we may see another TSB with another way to deal with it.

 

This is my first car w/ a turbo. But when I am on the highway and just push the pedal to the floor it goes to 15 psi +or- and then drops to like 8 psi +or- and works its way back up ect. isn't this normal? I do have the auto

 

I agree with what was said above and let me tell you that I'm not sure what the connectors look like after being placed on the vehicle. I am a mechanic in the Military and I remember a time when the GOV wanted to convert a certain percentage of the fleet to Natural Gas. While it did work, the vehicles had issues with stalling out. I found that the problem was the connectors. I soldered them and had no more issues.

My vehicle has't done it since last week but I did want to know if anyone had this issue since it's not been posted yet. Im glad it has come about. I have nice soldering kit and am very good at it. I will do the soldering myself if I have to. Sometimes illiminating potential causes is the way to go. This weekend I plan on looking it over really well with a fine tooth comb.

It could be something simple and I hope it is. The dealer scanned it and found notta thing wrong. There is how ever, an issue and we need to figure it out so we have direction.

 

That is normal because it takes RPM to build boost. The higher boost might be the in between rev.

 

Yes you are ok. You will not see 15 PSI everytime you floor it.

It depends on speed, RPM, etc when you step on it.