Vibration in motor WAWAWAWAWA !
You need to be at #1 TDC before removing the timing chain(rotating crankshaft clockwise only). The dot on the crank should be down(6 o'clock).
The intake side balance shaft, the arrow points up(12 o'clock), aligned with the cutout on the balance shaft retainer. It looks like there's a hole at about 8 o'clock position(near the retaining bolt), you put a drill bit in there to lock the sprocket in place.
The exhaust side shaft, the arrow points down(6 o'clock), aligned with the cutout in the retainer. The hole looks to be about 2 o'clockish(again, near the bolt), put a drill bit in there.
Install the chain , aligning the colored links with the alignment marks on each sprocket, starting with the copper link on the intake side. Working clockwise, align the silver mark with the mark on the crank, Then pass the chain over the water pump sprocket, under the exhaust side sprocket, aligning the silver link.
Then you can install the guides, reset the tensioner, and torque everything. Recheck the balance shaft timing marks, and you're on to the timing chain. Don't forget to remove those drill bits!
The intake side balance shaft, the arrow points up(12 o'clock), aligned with the cutout on the balance shaft retainer. It looks like there's a hole at about 8 o'clock position(near the retaining bolt), you put a drill bit in there to lock the sprocket in place.
The exhaust side shaft, the arrow points down(6 o'clock), aligned with the cutout in the retainer. The hole looks to be about 2 o'clockish(again, near the bolt), put a drill bit in there.
Install the chain , aligning the colored links with the alignment marks on each sprocket, starting with the copper link on the intake side. Working clockwise, align the silver mark with the mark on the crank, Then pass the chain over the water pump sprocket, under the exhaust side sprocket, aligning the silver link.
Then you can install the guides, reset the tensioner, and torque everything. Recheck the balance shaft timing marks, and you're on to the timing chain. Don't forget to remove those drill bits!
And I also just noticed that I have it at TDC and the intake cam has a diamond on it and I think it's supposed to line up with the RED chain link ? It's not , it's about 3 links away . Can someone verify this also . I tried posting photos but I guess I can't figure out how. Sorry
And I also just noticed that I have it at TDC and the intake cam has a diamond on it and I think it's supposed to line up with the RED chain link ? It's not , it's about 3 links away . Can someone verify this also . I tried posting photos but I guess I can't figure out how. Sorry
The round dot on the crank sprocket should be in the 5 o'clock position, aligned with the silver link.
Sorry I was talking about the cam timing chain not the balance shaft chain . The current timing on the intake Cam has a diamond on it that is supposed to line up with a red link ? That's what I have is a red link and it's currently about 3 links away from the diamond , does this mean my cams are out of timing also ?
Sorry, don't have pictures to show of the one I have apart because it's all apart and on a cart at the moment.
FYI looking to see if the chain links are all lined up with the mark on the balancer right now is a crap shoot. They don't stay lined up after you turn the motor over CW any number of revolutions. After setting the valve and/or balancer timing and turning the motor over CW they will eventually line back up after about 25-30 revolutions, there is some magical formula to figure out the revolutions that it will take but that would make my head hurt trying to figure it.
I know this because I was screwing around with that when I was taking mine apart, and I can say that they do eventually line back though.
RJ is correct about removing the balance shafts, you can't remove them with the motor in the car, well you could but it would involve torches or hole saws and wouldn't be a pretty site. If you are considering removing the shafts you have to remove the motor, remove the shafts and pound a plug of sorts into the center bearing support of the balance shaft to block the oil feed to that bearing. Be aware if you decide to do that they say you will not be able to get the plug back out, well at least the plugs that I saw. If designed correctly it could be designed to be removeable, but that's a different topic for a different time. When do that mod you have to use a dumby stub shaft of the nose of a balance shaft. the reason for that is to have something that would block the front oil feed holes, second the water pump/balance shaft timing sprockets are still used so you can spin the existing coolant/water pump. A different arrange may be possible and I will look into that when I start putting mine back together. As it stands right now with the kits and parts available right now the stub shaft and factory water pump balance shaft chain and arrangement are still needed.
I glad to hear you may have you issue figured out.
FYI looking to see if the chain links are all lined up with the mark on the balancer right now is a crap shoot. They don't stay lined up after you turn the motor over CW any number of revolutions. After setting the valve and/or balancer timing and turning the motor over CW they will eventually line back up after about 25-30 revolutions, there is some magical formula to figure out the revolutions that it will take but that would make my head hurt trying to figure it.
I know this because I was screwing around with that when I was taking mine apart, and I can say that they do eventually line back though.
RJ is correct about removing the balance shafts, you can't remove them with the motor in the car, well you could but it would involve torches or hole saws and wouldn't be a pretty site. If you are considering removing the shafts you have to remove the motor, remove the shafts and pound a plug of sorts into the center bearing support of the balance shaft to block the oil feed to that bearing. Be aware if you decide to do that they say you will not be able to get the plug back out, well at least the plugs that I saw. If designed correctly it could be designed to be removeable, but that's a different topic for a different time. When do that mod you have to use a dumby stub shaft of the nose of a balance shaft. the reason for that is to have something that would block the front oil feed holes, second the water pump/balance shaft timing sprockets are still used so you can spin the existing coolant/water pump. A different arrange may be possible and I will look into that when I start putting mine back together. As it stands right now with the kits and parts available right now the stub shaft and factory water pump balance shaft chain and arrangement are still needed.
I glad to hear you may have you issue figured out.
Thanks guy's for all of this info , it helps a lot. I found this at Napa . Made by CLOYES. 9-4201S with sprockets . 9-4201SX no sprockets . Do I need the cam sprockets ? I don't want to remove the balance shafts , I'm fixing this in hopes of removing the vibration the out of timed shaft are causing .


