Sorry for crappy iphone pictures

 

Before you tune it , I'd close in the air filter and draw air in from the outer fender area and not the hot under hood air.
Then get the tune.

 

The stock airbox looks like ****, but it is a true cold-air system.
Just need to add a K&N air intake system to it, & call it a day.
No need to 'tune' for the K&N either.
I'm still running with the stock factory MAF settings, in my ECM...

I ran back-to-back 12.33s, my last 2 passes down the track,
at the end of last season, with my buggy...

 

He is running the MAF relocate. It relocates the MAF sensor and lower MAP sensor to the vertical portion of the cold side charge pipe right befor the throttle body. With this setup, warmer air drawn from the filter is not much of a factor as the MAF will not see the condition of that air. It only see the condition of the air after the intercooler. Also known as "blow through MAF".

 

Well alrighty then, now you two claim warm air is just fine? Sure contradicts the theory of s CAI setup, I guess 45 years of racing didn't teach me anything, even if the cone filter was simply boxed and the cold air hole connected to it would be an improvement IMHO.
And that is my right to post it!

 

Considering the fastest and highest hp LNF's use this setup, yes it is fine. No improvement to inlet air needed. Best way to improve IAT is at the IC.

 

All the air is cold for now, hasn't been above freezing all week!!!!!

This is what the kit came with. I questioned it too but zzp says it's the way to go. I'm trusting the highest horsepower (710) lnf world record holders.

 

Because of the 'sewer-pipe' inlets, a blow-thru MAF, is the way to go,
for ease of tuning.
The Cobalt guys, have always had trouble tuning intakes, so blow-thru,
makes it a whole lot easier.

If your 'buggy' is used mostly, as a DD, you really can't beat the stock, + K&N, cold-air HHR SS, intake setup,
until your goals are to run down the track, in less than 12 seconds.
Cold-air is best for the stock IC, & I agree, that with a good IC, warm under-hood air, is not an issue, with blow-thru.

With the blow-thru MAF, being part of a well designed, ZZP upgraded turbo setup, you can't go wrong...

 

I wouldn't say blow through MAF tuning is easier, it seems the main reason to use blow through setup is to accommodate VTA BOV.

 

Ya I understand the main purpose of blow-thru, is because of the venting off, of the metered air, when the ECM, is expecting it.

Just saying that if your're wanting to use basically, any other intake system, other than the stock system, you'll get a, better, (easier), tune with blow-thru, as the air will be more linear 'over' the MAF, with more consistent temperature also, having gone thru the IC, & because it's most likely that your 'sewer-pipe' intake system, is more likely to not be a cold-air system, as most draw, under-hood air.

So for us, with the LNF, blow-thru would be best for:
1. All out , or well engineered setups.
2. When using sewer-pipe' intake systems.
3. For the kiddies that love the PSSSSSSSSSSSSSS sound..

For the ricer world:
Same as above, plus, to replaced crappy, leaky, stock ricer BOVs, with nice VTA BOVs,
but mostly for the PSSSSSSSSSSSSS