Oldblue this is going into a sky. Lol I am having swaintec coat it and the turbo housing with there white lightning. Guess we will see how it holds up.

 

The sky is the limit!! But how's the hood paint gonna handle the heat!

 

Turbo will fit through hood! Kidding of coarse. That picture does make it look higher than it is.

 

In the 1st picture of the exhaust manifold I see you have the right tool for the job close by... a hammer. I've been coating everything as well. Piston heads, chambers, valve heads and exhaust port ceramic. Carolina Coatings is near my office. It's not for the feint of heart in terms of cost but it does work.

I wish we had the room in our east west engine bay that you have.

Really nice work. Please keep the pictures coming.

 

I was thinking about coating the head, but just decided not to. My ports were to pretty to mess up. Lol I pulled every valve out just to make sure the seats were good to go. Installed the dual springs and viton seals.

 

Manifold is looking good. A year ago I wasn't comfortable enough with my welding skills to make one so I bought a ZFR6758. Your set up will be so much better than the stock manifold and ZFR housing. Not only that but I did not think I was going to put $$$ into the motor so I didn't get a 7163. Kicking myself for it now.

So what did you go with for ring gaps?

Professionally ported heads look so good. I did my best to be even and clean on mine, but I can't torture myself with anymore finishing work.

Also I didn't catch, is this a man or auto? What clutch if manual?

 

Your right they are pretty. But 2 hours after you get it running they won't look like that anymore.

Here is my chamber ceramic coated;



As a heads up to anyone considering this. When they do the chamber they will install the valves so the back of the heads are coated as well. when it comes to the ports you have two options;1 they spray the port and the valve seat, afterwards you have the seats touched to get the coating off the face of the seat. 2 the tape the seats off, that involves time, time is money so it will cost more. If you are going to have valve job done them no problem, if you aren't you pay for the time. I can tell you it's less expensive to have the seats touched afterwards rather than having the coater tape the seats.

 

DrLoch, I put the lol in there because I know looks have nothing to do with a good build. I really had to talk myself out of coating everything. The hype had me going. I have not seen anyone post a picture of there coatings after their engine has 30,000 miles on it. The only reason I had the Pistons done was because a guy I know races Baha and has a coating business and offered to do them for free to test them on a long term engines. He said they hold up great on his race engines. My feeling is after thousands of hot and cold cycling it's going to come off. I just hope it doesn't catch a ring or stick in a valve. Easy enough to buy and replace a turbo if it takes out the turbin wheel. Not saying it will happen, just saying I have not yet seen any real evidence that it will last the length of the engine will. Though it sure looks good. Nice job.

 

Hhrfreek I need to go back and look at my file on the build for the ring gaps. I do to much with numbers all day and everyday to remember. Alright Alright I'm getting old. Lol. I will look them up. All I can say is it is better to be a little off on the big side than be off on the small side. Guys will argue all day on what is best.

As far as transmission, it's a manual. I decided to go with a Spec 3+

 

I also will be interested to see what it looks like after 30k miles as well. If I have to pull it apart at any miles beyond 10K or so I will be interested to see if it's still there. If it does indeed come off I don't know if it would come off in chunks/flakes just break down and disappear. Only time will tell, I'll certainly share that information. We have a saying in our business, "Education is expensive".

We coated a lot of parts for our offshore race engines but they never went more than three races before they were pulled and had either a major or minor refresh.

I believe the ring gap was .017 on the top and .019 on the 2nd if you used Wiseco's recommendations. Here is a video of an LNF build using the same parts.