12" L7 Install/Tuning
01-03-2009, 08:26 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-13-2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 207
12" L7 Install/Tuning
Ok everyone, Here's the write up on how I installed and tunes my L7... I will have a pic to go with this once I get back home since I'm doing this from my treo...
Components Used...
a) Kenwood Excelon DNX8120
b) Kicker zx1000.1 mono amp
c) 12" Kicker L7 in a ported box
Tools Used...
a) VOhm Meter with alligator clips on the ends of the probes
b) precision flat tip screwdriver
d) 50 Hertz sound test downloaded from realmofexcursion.com
c) car wash parking lot far away from home
After talking with Brent @ Kicker Tech support here's what was for me explained to do on how to tune my box with the components being used...
1) On my HU...
a. I turned up the sub db input all the way (+10db)
b. I turned the two lowest frequencies on my EQ to max settings (+9db)
c. My HPF's for front and rear was set to 150hrtz to prevent my stereo from frying. It was important to do this because 50 hertz is such a low frequency and takes a lot of power to push.
d. My sub's LPF was set @ 80 hertz with least steepest slope setting (-12db)
e. Inserted cd and put the test signal on repeat.
e. Calculated 75% of volume level (35 is max volume so I divided that by 4 and then took that # and multiplied it by 3, approx 26).
2) On my Amp
a. Unplugged RCA jacks
b. Attatched red probe to center pin of one jack , then I connected the black proble to the outside ring of the same jack (does not matter if you use right or left jack).
c. Turned on my VOhm meter to appropriate A/C settings.
d. I slowly turned my stereo up to 26 and recorded my voltage which was 3.6 VAC. This was what my HU's actual preout voltage is @ 75% volume. After 75% you begin to lose quality and get distortion. With that voltage Brent explained to me on the amp that @ 4 volts the gain should be @ the noon mark. 2 volts should be between the 2nd and 3rd mark (9 o'clock position). Since mine was 3.6 he said to set it a bit past the 3rd mark but less then half close to the noon mark. This is my reference point.
e. I set my amp frequency @ 75 hertz which is the 1st mark on the kickers. My bass boost was set @ 0.
f. I then drove to a car wash where no one was washing their car (a courteous thing). I was told to put in the loudest CD (not usb, mp3 or etc)(I used an old DJ Laz bass cd) and turn it up to 75%. I then started adjusting the gain and took notice when it stopped getting loud, this is the drop of point of the sub. Once I found that drop off point on the gain I turned it back some. Brent said a hair, I did a couple hairs just to be safe. This still ended up being a bit higher then my reference point (half way between the 3rd mark and noon). If I wanted to add bass boost I can because some people like "bassy" music @ low level volumes, but DO NOT turn it up past the setting you have your gain at. I put mine @ the 9 o'clock position so I can get more bass out of rock and metal.
g. I can use my remote bass knob to control bass as needed. This little device is handy as hell since on rock use to have to go into my HU settings and manually crank the bass, then go back in and turn it down for hip hop.
3) Placement of my sub
a. Driver's side up against back seat.
b. Port firing back towards cargo door.
c. Sub facing up towards celing.
d. This position was recommended by Ed Razorlite as per the loudest reults when he performed tests. I concur this since I feel my system's bass is now louder and even hits harder on some songs then before with my Dual 12" cvr's. I also can hear the plastic paneling rattle so I duramat job will be needed in the future.
Not sure if all this I did was correct or agreeable since I imagine their are different ways to go about this, but as per Brent at Kicker this is how they would tune it. Hope this helps out. I found this pretty useful and a great crash course on tuning your sub. Thank you again to everyone else who gave me advise on this mod. Black Betty loves her new L7
Gary B.
L7 Final Positioning
Remote Bass Knob Location
Components Used...
a) Kenwood Excelon DNX8120
b) Kicker zx1000.1 mono amp
c) 12" Kicker L7 in a ported box
Tools Used...
a) VOhm Meter with alligator clips on the ends of the probes
b) precision flat tip screwdriver
d) 50 Hertz sound test downloaded from realmofexcursion.com
c) car wash parking lot far away from home
After talking with Brent @ Kicker Tech support here's what was for me explained to do on how to tune my box with the components being used...
1) On my HU...
a. I turned up the sub db input all the way (+10db)
b. I turned the two lowest frequencies on my EQ to max settings (+9db)
c. My HPF's for front and rear was set to 150hrtz to prevent my stereo from frying. It was important to do this because 50 hertz is such a low frequency and takes a lot of power to push.
d. My sub's LPF was set @ 80 hertz with least steepest slope setting (-12db)
e. Inserted cd and put the test signal on repeat.
e. Calculated 75% of volume level (35 is max volume so I divided that by 4 and then took that # and multiplied it by 3, approx 26).
2) On my Amp
a. Unplugged RCA jacks
b. Attatched red probe to center pin of one jack , then I connected the black proble to the outside ring of the same jack (does not matter if you use right or left jack).
c. Turned on my VOhm meter to appropriate A/C settings.
d. I slowly turned my stereo up to 26 and recorded my voltage which was 3.6 VAC. This was what my HU's actual preout voltage is @ 75% volume. After 75% you begin to lose quality and get distortion. With that voltage Brent explained to me on the amp that @ 4 volts the gain should be @ the noon mark. 2 volts should be between the 2nd and 3rd mark (9 o'clock position). Since mine was 3.6 he said to set it a bit past the 3rd mark but less then half close to the noon mark. This is my reference point.
e. I set my amp frequency @ 75 hertz which is the 1st mark on the kickers. My bass boost was set @ 0.
f. I then drove to a car wash where no one was washing their car (a courteous thing). I was told to put in the loudest CD (not usb, mp3 or etc)(I used an old DJ Laz bass cd) and turn it up to 75%. I then started adjusting the gain and took notice when it stopped getting loud, this is the drop of point of the sub. Once I found that drop off point on the gain I turned it back some. Brent said a hair, I did a couple hairs just to be safe. This still ended up being a bit higher then my reference point (half way between the 3rd mark and noon). If I wanted to add bass boost I can because some people like "bassy" music @ low level volumes, but DO NOT turn it up past the setting you have your gain at. I put mine @ the 9 o'clock position so I can get more bass out of rock and metal.
g. I can use my remote bass knob to control bass as needed. This little device is handy as hell since on rock use to have to go into my HU settings and manually crank the bass, then go back in and turn it down for hip hop.
3) Placement of my sub
a. Driver's side up against back seat.
b. Port firing back towards cargo door.
c. Sub facing up towards celing.
d. This position was recommended by Ed Razorlite as per the loudest reults when he performed tests. I concur this since I feel my system's bass is now louder and even hits harder on some songs then before with my Dual 12" cvr's. I also can hear the plastic paneling rattle so I duramat job will be needed in the future.
Not sure if all this I did was correct or agreeable since I imagine their are different ways to go about this, but as per Brent at Kicker this is how they would tune it. Hope this helps out. I found this pretty useful and a great crash course on tuning your sub. Thank you again to everyone else who gave me advise on this mod. Black Betty loves her new L7
Gary B.
L7 Final Positioning
Remote Bass Knob Location
Last edited by Digital_Rapture; 01-04-2009 at 02:15 PM.
01-03-2009, 09:41 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: 06-01-2008
Location: arlington texas
Posts: 2,762
sounds like its hitting hard enough if your rattling stuff and need the dynomat job.. i wish i could put a system in 
the most i can do is head unit n door speakers, i carry to many tools to have a sub back there
the most i can do is head unit n door speakers, i carry to many tools to have a sub back there
01-03-2009, 09:46 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-13-2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 207
You could always replace the factory sub in driver's rear panel. I believe some people have even put a 10" in there with some modifications to the stock housings... Just a thougt brother.
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