New MOOG Control Arm Bushing?
#21
I believe they failed due to corrosion, salt and sand , huge pot holes, train tracks .
the new ones are awesome, the new owner and I took the LCA out when he removed the transmission, the bushing was still tight and firm and well lubricated.
the new ones are awesome, the new owner and I took the LCA out when he removed the transmission, the bushing was still tight and firm and well lubricated.
#23
Front end heavy clunk
Hi all, can anyone recommend a link to a good diagram of the front end of an HHR, I've obviously misdiagnosed a problem. Originally, I thought the recommendations for a Moog replacement bushing was for the sway bar as several said that could be the problem. I ordered part # K200792 which isn't even close to the part I needed. I think what this part must be for is the lower control arm. So, not having a shop manual handy I'm really confused. The heavy clunk happens at relatively low speeds on rough roads. I recently replaced the struts and links which quieted things down for about 20K miles but it's gotten worse since then. Part of my problem is that I'm currently in Mexico so ordering parts is tricky and it often takes weeks for anything to arrive. Thank you for any help and advice.
#24
K201370 would be the swaybar bushing at the frame cradle,
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/comm...-thread-48833/
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/comm...-thread-48833/
#25
#26
#27
Here's the diagram.
https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=365261&ukey_make=1 024&ukey_model=1451
The zinc is for the forged aluminum arms. Many have used the non zinc ones.
https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=365261&ukey_make=1 024&ukey_model=1451
The zinc is for the forged aluminum arms. Many have used the non zinc ones.
#29
Ok, wouldn't think it would matter as the aluminum is exposed....hmmm . Not sure if the ball joints are worn, may just buy the whole control arms.
Question regarding the LCA, I was on the highway (70mph) and let go of the wheel, she stayed straight and true with no drifting out of the lane surprisingly.
But when youre into a slight turn and hit uneven pavement and she just does the boat float, is that from the LCA's ?
Also after changing them out with new, does it need an alignment or are they pretty uniform? ( Im thinking it warrants and alignment but never seen anyone mention it after changing them? )
Question regarding the LCA, I was on the highway (70mph) and let go of the wheel, she stayed straight and true with no drifting out of the lane surprisingly.
But when youre into a slight turn and hit uneven pavement and she just does the boat float, is that from the LCA's ?
Also after changing them out with new, does it need an alignment or are they pretty uniform? ( Im thinking it warrants and alignment but never seen anyone mention it after changing them? )
#30
If you have had an alignment done chances are you’re gonna need another after you replace the LCA’s or even just tge ball joints and LCA bushings, because unless they removed those parts to inspect them , they couldn’t have seen the bushings. Moog doesn’t sell tge LCA’s with the bushing bearings installed, I like to install the Moog ball joints and rear bushing bearings and know I’m good for more miles, about two to three times longer than the rubber bushings.
that float feeling is mostly from the rear bushings are shot! And your ball joints aren’t far behind
that float feeling is mostly from the rear bushings are shot! And your ball joints aren’t far behind
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