Hello. 2008 HHR here with around 236k miles now. Still has the factory control arms (as far as I know) and I think they've been off once when the transmission solenoid(s)? were replaced 100k-150k miles ago or maybe twice depending on what they had to do the engine about 86k miles ago. That being said I have considered replacing them but, have been scared since everything on this car has fought me due to living in the Midwest/Salt Belt/Rust Belt. This got me to thinking with the whole cage nut. If they break off could the nut be replaced with a grade 8 bolt and grade 8 with even maybe a locking washer? Just wondering on thoughts about this?

The reason why I ask I think is I have a vintage Dodge truck from the 1970s and the upgrade on that truck is to add a steering brace to the steering box that mounts to the frame since these truck tend to crack at the mounting points without the brace more often so than not. Anyways, on that the factory mounting bolts are replaced with Grade 8 bolts including the ones that mount the steering gear to the frame. That being said, I'm just wondering if something would work similar for an HHR?

I believe I saw in one thread to use an M14 bolt and nut? Anyways, just trying to confirm. Thank you in advance.

black_03_dakota

 

This thread has information regarding the cage nut.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...acement-66737/

Soak the cage nut with penetrating oil for several days before you remove the bolt.
Just replace the rear bushing with a Moog K201285 .

 

Grade 8 is a hardness rating for SAE fasteners, M14 is a size for Metric fasteners. M14 simply means it is a 14 mm diameter and metric. Grade 8 is equivalent to Class 10.9 in metric.
Metric fasteners are defined by the diameter, thread pitch and hardness class, like M14X2.0 Class 10.9.
Thread pitch on SAE is measured in threads per inch. In metric pitch is measured by mm between threads peaks. Sometimes "coarse" or "fine" is used, which have specific specs.
A ASE grade 8 cap screw has 6 dashes on the head, Metric class 10.9 cap screws have 10.9 printed on the head.

 

Thank you both for the reply. Very helpful information here. I do have a can of Kroil. That being said the car is fairly rusty now. Not sure, how bad it will be now or if I'll just ride it out. With some of the repairs, I'm considering a lower mileage more rust free HHR (Florida or California car) but, not sure if I'll keep going or not at this point on this car. I might just for the learning experience. Thank you both again for your help, time, and replies.

 

Go for the learning experience and change the bushings on your replacement car, Arizona cars are dry.

 

Hello again. I don't have the replacement currently but, I'm considering some more punishment I guess haha. I'll have to make another post about the current but, I'll add this to conversation, the current car to me is pretty rusty at this point but, it would be after 17 years here in the Rust/Salt Belt. The rockers are getting rusty, the door bottoms on all doors are rusting, the rear of the hatch is just starting to rust, the floor and part of the rails underneath the car are also getting rusty. The exhaust this past week rusted at the flange where the converter pipe, and resonator pipe connects and there's more but, as I said I may start another thread because I'm trying to decide if I keep putting more money it at this point because life has kicked my butt at this current point and gave me a few gut punches and seems to be giving me more man lol. It still runs and drives for now but, it needs some big ticket items too. Anyways, thank you all again.

 

And DO NOT USE AN IMPACT GUN !!!! do it all with a rachet by hand