Shocks and Struts are on.
10-09-2021, 07:56 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-07-2021
Location: Michigan
Posts: 293
Shocks and Struts are on.
Today was the day to replace my struts. I had already done the shocks earlier in the week and it took only about 40 minutes to do both, KYB Part No. 349043 with most of the time spent taking the tires off and on. Two bolts per shock and they’re easy to get to and can be done with simple hand tools. Total price for the rear shocks was $70 from RockAuto.
I knew the struts were going to be a bit more complicated. I decided to go with the KYB Quick Struts, Part Nos. SR4056 and SR4057, to make it easier and not have to deal with the mount. Total cost was $250. I also went with new Moog sway bar links, $50 pair, Part No. K750012. A local dealer quoted me $300 for the install if I brought the parts in but definitely could have gotten it done a lot cheaper at a local shop.
If you’re going to do this, obviously do online research and watch the various YT videos – I just want to give a few off-hand tips and pointers.
While technically it can be done without an impact wrench, doing it with hand tools is going to take longer and it’s going to be a bit more difficult unless you’re a bodybuilder, especially for the knuckle bolts which are pressed in, but it can be done. Even with a salty northern car, all the strut nuts and bolts came out easily with an impact wrench. Also spray PB Blaster liberally on all bolts and nuts and let it sit awhile before you start.
The only issue, and it’s a big issue, is the lower sway bar nuts. Mines were rusted on pretty bad. I used the vice grip method I saw on YT, ripping the sway bar boots completely off with a screwdriver so I could get a good grip on the ball shaft. This worked fine with three of the four, using an open end 18mm wrench and a 18mm socket when needed, but I had to use a Sawzall with a carbide blade to cut the stud off on the lower driver’s side. I found sitting on the ground next to the car and reaching into the wheel well gave me the best leverage since it’s a tight fit in there and a breaker bar wouldn’t fit. Definitely use a floor jack to take the weight off the assembly to take the knuckle bolts out.
Reinstalling everything was straight forward, especially since the new sway bars links have an 18mm space to hold the stud, unlike the stock parts. I always use a torque wrench on suspension parts to eliminate any rattles. Torque for the top three mounting nuts is 15FT/LBS, knuckle bolts are 89FT/LBS and sway bar end link bolts are 59FT/LBS. Total time was about three hours, but I took my time and also had to run to get the carbide blade. Again, the impact wrench makes things a lot easier, and you can justify the cost of one by the savings from doing it yourself.
Results? Actually, I think the rear shocks made the bigger initial difference. The car overall definitely rides better and a bit firmer.
I knew the struts were going to be a bit more complicated. I decided to go with the KYB Quick Struts, Part Nos. SR4056 and SR4057, to make it easier and not have to deal with the mount. Total cost was $250. I also went with new Moog sway bar links, $50 pair, Part No. K750012. A local dealer quoted me $300 for the install if I brought the parts in but definitely could have gotten it done a lot cheaper at a local shop.
If you’re going to do this, obviously do online research and watch the various YT videos – I just want to give a few off-hand tips and pointers.
While technically it can be done without an impact wrench, doing it with hand tools is going to take longer and it’s going to be a bit more difficult unless you’re a bodybuilder, especially for the knuckle bolts which are pressed in, but it can be done. Even with a salty northern car, all the strut nuts and bolts came out easily with an impact wrench. Also spray PB Blaster liberally on all bolts and nuts and let it sit awhile before you start.
The only issue, and it’s a big issue, is the lower sway bar nuts. Mines were rusted on pretty bad. I used the vice grip method I saw on YT, ripping the sway bar boots completely off with a screwdriver so I could get a good grip on the ball shaft. This worked fine with three of the four, using an open end 18mm wrench and a 18mm socket when needed, but I had to use a Sawzall with a carbide blade to cut the stud off on the lower driver’s side. I found sitting on the ground next to the car and reaching into the wheel well gave me the best leverage since it’s a tight fit in there and a breaker bar wouldn’t fit. Definitely use a floor jack to take the weight off the assembly to take the knuckle bolts out.
Reinstalling everything was straight forward, especially since the new sway bars links have an 18mm space to hold the stud, unlike the stock parts. I always use a torque wrench on suspension parts to eliminate any rattles. Torque for the top three mounting nuts is 15FT/LBS, knuckle bolts are 89FT/LBS and sway bar end link bolts are 59FT/LBS. Total time was about three hours, but I took my time and also had to run to get the carbide blade. Again, the impact wrench makes things a lot easier, and you can justify the cost of one by the savings from doing it yourself.
Results? Actually, I think the rear shocks made the bigger initial difference. The car overall definitely rides better and a bit firmer.
10-10-2021, 10:03 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-07-2021
Location: Michigan
Posts: 293
No, thank you and this forum for the great advice. As folks can tell from my posts, I'm having fun with this car - it's distinct looking, fun to drive (relatively speaking), economical, and serves all my needs and most importantly, it's cheap and easy to mod or work on. If anyone has a young kid who's interested in learning and working on cars, which is becoming rare among young folks, this is the perfect car, especially if you can find a solid, rust-free and well cared for example.
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