The clean side separater - in place of the oil filler cap - If it lets air into, or out of, the crankcase, (unmetered air), I don't understand why that would be a good thing. If it does neither, why is it replacing the cap? I don't know what it does, how(or if) it helps anything. Until I understood it, I would leave it off, too.

Ah, the K&N oiled air filter - these have fouled many a MAF sensor.

 

I would check over the charge pipe clamps for a boost leak. Those clamps/pipes have been nothing but a pain for me. Hopefully they sent you the correct lower charge pipe, apparently there are differences between the auto and manual versions. They sent me the wrong one, unfortunately I had already removed and re powder coated it. I had to modify the throttle body silicon couplers and change the intercooler mounting brackets.

Because of the mismatch, I had trouble with the lower charge/intercooler coupler. It would blow right off the clamp no matter what I did.

What is with your "clean air separator"? It replaces the oil filler cap? Kind of like an old valve cover breather? Got a pic?

Yes, check valves/pcv should flow easily 1 way and not at all in the opposite direction. I've got an easy mod for the factory intake pcv valve. Soon as I get a minute I'll update the catch can thread.

Good luck with the boost!

 

Yes, you should be able to blow through one direction, but not the other. Sometimes there is an arrow on the valve to show which direction air should flow. Dan reported his brand new PCV valve allowed approx. 10% leakage, but my used one didn't seem to leak at all. It could be that the oil that was in mine was sealing better than a dry valve.

The charge piping has to connect to the turbo, the intercooler, and the throttle body. Any of these connections between the turbo and the throttle body are potential leaks. For that matter, the throttle body to manifold connection, manifold to head conection, and any thing connected to the manifold could leak boost(would likely leak vacuum, too). Do you have a TMAP sensor in the lower charge pipe, like the stock setup has? Seems like that could be a potential leak also. I think the boost control solenoid on the turbo has small lines that use boost pressure to operate the wastegate, which is a potential leak.

If the K&N has fouled the MAF sensor, you could clean the MAF, only to have the MAF foul again, causing you to think, "Well i guess that wasn't the problem, I cleaned the MAF and I still get the code".

If you don't find any boost leaks, you might see about getting a dry filter that fits your CAI(and clean the MAF sensor with the appropriate cleaner, of course).

 

It could be oil from the K&N filter, I did note in the ZZP product description


Here it is, the ZZPerformance HHR air intake, now you can remove that ugly factory air box and replace it with our silicone and wrinkle black powdercoated aluminum tube. Relocates your MAF using our cnc cut MAF pad, since the MAF is located in a larger tube a tune is highly recommended. It connects directly to your stock turbo, has provisions for your EVAP, and secures to one of your valve cover bolts.



Perhaps the tune is the issue!

 

I would count out an oily MAF for a "no boost" situation. I got Harley(wife's 08 SS) up and running last weekend. In my hurry to try and meet a dyno appt I just ran a straight tube from Port 1 (center of VC) to my fresh air intake. How bad could that be I thought to myself...

Horrible! Just horrible, the car ran but was literally pulling fresh oil straight from the crankcase and distributing it everywhere throughout my charge air system. Nice! The one thing I was trying to avoid during all these mods!

Needless to say, that's how I came up with my pcv valve mod (pics later) I completely removed the entire system except the exhaust, that'll burn out. So my MAF was literally drenched in motor oil, still boosted. My map sensors, drenched. You name it I removed and cleaned it. Got my pcv installed for fresh air IN, so now the pipes are dry (whew). I also installed 2 halves of a whole catch can I'm building. Didn't get to finish the filter chamber so I'm running with 2 mini 2x2's with just sintered filters and chore boy.

Sorry for rambling, just saying I doubt a dirty MAF is holding you back. The MAF does need tuned but again, that shouldn't prevent you from boosting. I get a P0101-P0104 any of those (even pending) will cut my boost to just 5 lbs. You can feel a "click" in the pedal as the code goes pending, then limited boost.

 

Well the line running from my Air Intake to Port 1 of the valve cover has the stock hose - so there's a PCV on that line to keep airflow moving towards port 1.

The clean side Seperator is suppose to help remove crankcase pressure. They told me to attach my cold air intake to it, and plug port 1 but I don't want to do that. I feel that's dangerous. If I just put the oil cap in, then after the car warms up, the engine beings to whine. Remove the oil cap, no more whine - so there's definitely too much pressure for the crankcase if I have the oil cap, which is why I put this "clean side seperater" on it.
Pic and description for the CSS - Clean-Side Separator ? Rx Speed Works

My TMAP sensor is in the lower charge pipe like stock - just the hole for it was at the top, closer to the throttle body, instead of closer to the intercooler like the stock pipe. I was told the intercooler package was for automatic.

Next time my brother and I look at it we were going to look over the following:
All connections for charge pipes, intercooler, and from CAI to turbo.
The vacuum lines to the boost solenoid
That silly vacuum tank to see if there's any cracks - might bypass altogether and run straight from boost solenoid to intake manifold.

Now talking to all of you, we will look over the MAF sensor, and the TMAP sensors to see if they're leaking anywhere too.

 

Double check the fitment on your MAF. ZZP has a "machined bung" they weld into location. On the wife's, I just noticed how loose it fit in its machined bung. I was definitely leaking at the MAF connection (which is in the LC).

What I did was take an old oil filter o ring (from the lnf) and cut it down to size then RTVed it in place. The MAF fit much better and was finally snug.

That clean side separator is pretty cool. But unless it's going through a catch can I wouldn't hook it up to your CAI. Sounds like you'll end up with what I had last weekend...an intercooler catch can (not cool!) What I think that whine is is simply the T in your system. I think the only way to run 1 catch can is with an external vacuum source. Not that I have a clue, because I have just now started testing my mini cans. Just a thought though.

And ZZP was suppose to send me all automatic parts... They were all for a manual. However, the 3rd try on the downpipe was a success! Good luck sir, keep us posted. If your bumper fit back on without an issue maybe your intercooler is slightly smaller than ours and everything will line up for ya. Fingers crossed!

 

Found this on their site also

http://www.rxspeedworks.com/wp-conte...-Separator.pdf

As far as I can tell, we do not have the problem they are trying to solve, which is oil ingestion into the intake tube before the throttle body. I dunno, maybe if you only had a catch can in the PCV line, you could use this to keep oil from dumping at the mouth of the turbo.

And this http://www.rxspeedworks.com/wp-conte...-Catch-Can.pdf

After reading more at their site, it seems you would cap the inlet port at the rear center of valve cover, and run a line from this separator to the air inlet hose(where the factory check valve is), removing the check valve. Then you could draw metered air into the crankcase(valve cover actually, not as good as our factory setup)at vacuum condition. Then when crankcase pressure rises, the separator filters air going back to the air inlet hose, relieving crankcase pressure.

But the pressure is going to be relieved through the catch can, to the turbo anyway! Even if there is insufficient vacuum there to pull, the positive pressure will flow, and if it doesn't, then there's not enough pressure to worry about!

And they are selling these with dual valve cans, and to customers with forced induction. I just don't see the need. There are 2 vacuum sources to the can, I just... If someone sees something I can't, please point it out... I studied this before, while working on the catch can thread, and looking at it again, it just seems like a way to get more $$ out of the customer. A simple check valve in the line will keep the vapors out of the inlet hose.

I speculated before that some vehicles may be monitoring the air in that line, and that system(I think it was a Ford system I was looking at) requires air to move in both directions, so no check valve. Maybe that's it.

Sorry for the long post... Yeah check for boost leak.

 

I agree RJ, seems that Separator would be doing justice on a NA engine. Where an oily throttle body would be found.

Unfortunately, it seems when you ask anyone about the PCV in an LNF they are willing to sell you everything they've got. This seems just like my situation with Powell racing. I was ready and willing to send my money, when I asked questions I was given the run around. So that's why I started the whole catch can thread and built everything from scratch.

Since the can is welded shut, I'm guessing there isn't loads of proprietary tech inside. From my experience with the Mishismoto can, a sintered filter and an empty can...disappointing.

I would be finished with my catch cans if I just welded the ends shut! But if I did that, I wouldn't be able to get in and clean it out. If you've ever tried drilling straight through 2" of aluminum you know it isn't fun! Considering each one has about 24 holes. I'm in for a mountain of time on the Bridgeport mill.

-my 2 cents

Boost leak, gotta find that boost leak! Maybe that old dealership your in left a handy leak tester around.

 

I agree with both of you regarding the Clean Side Separator. When the guys at RX told me it was necessary, I was trying to explain my engine was already receiving clean air from my Air Intake from Port 1, and it sounded like their Clean Side Separator was recreating what my engine already had. If I keep it on the car, I could always tee it to the hose coming from the CAI, and port 1. Hopefully the PCV valve on the CAI hose would make sure air flow is only going to port 1.

I didn't even want it, but I jumped in on a group buy back in February and got all this extra stuff with the catch can for MUCH LESS than they're selling their kit for.

I'm thinking that excess crankcase pressure causing the whine is from the tee as well, which is why I was thinking of putting a check valve on the line coming from port 2 to make sure all air flow goes towards the catch can. RJ mentioned the way it's pressurized it's not needed, but wouldn't hurt - so maybe I'll give it a shot to see if it helps. Engine doesn't whine until it's fully warmed up (after 20 minutes or so) and as soon as I give just a little gas, it goes away. That is if I have the regular oil cap in.

The intercooler fits into the bumper with no problems, but it's a snug fit - actually looks like it fits better than the stock intercooler.


I'll definitely check the MAF to see if it's loose or if it wiggles in the CAI pipe. ZZP warned it could throw a code since the CAI pipe is larger than stock, but I didn't think I would get a "P2178 code for the engine running rich at acel/idle - bay 1" because of it.

There's definitely a boost leak somewhere because if I'm in 1st or 2nd and let off the gas, I get a noise as if I have an atmospheric BOV. I'm running all stock with the k04, so it still has the plastic diverter valve. If the dealership doesn't have a boost leak tester I can build one like the dudes on the Cobalt site did, or just put soapy water around the fittings and see where it bubbles up.

I'm also thinking I could have a problem with the vacuum tank or the boost solenoid - that's the only part of the system I didn't replace with new because 1) I didn't know what the heck that vacuum tank was and 2) I thought the solenoid and vacuum tank was all 1 big part - and I wasn't finding it on any diagrams. I guess because since I saw it bolted to the engine I was thinking it was an engine component, not a turbo component. If the solenoid and/or the vacuum tank has a problem, it could also make sense why my old turbo died at 80k miles.

Either way, we're testing for the boost leak - it makes sense I would get the p2178 code if there's a leak because the engine is looking for the extra air from the turbo, but it's not there because it's LEAKING! That would totally cause the running rich issue.

Once we fix that I can drive the car with more than extremely light throttle and see if I get any more codes.


Man - now I see why people mention how turbo's are so sensitive and can be a PITA


I did however put the car in its first car show this past Saturday with my Cousin/Late Uncle's 39 Chevy Coupe. The coupe brought home a trophy, but I got a lot of nods from the other car owners for the SS. Even leaving the show I got a lot of guys saying "HEY! There's that HHR SS, Great Work!"