Dbeluscak

P2178 is a good possibility for shut down of boost. I've mentioned my 2176 and even pending it will immediately cut boost. And it does it without the help from the boost control solenoid(turbo mounted) or boost bypass relay(intake mounted). I know it's not using these because mine aren't connected to vacuum lines anymore, only plugged in to make the ECM happy.

-edit: not P2176 (that's throttle position not learned) I want to say it's P104-106 for me. Something to do with "MAF perf HI bank A". Or there's " lean bank 1" those will kill my boost even pending. You can feel the TB click when it does go pending.


And this just hit me. Your rich off idle code is from your opel injectors. The fuel injector constant needs to tuned as well as the fuel cutoff rate. I have the specs but you'll need a way to flash them via HPT.

donbrew

H'mm, didn't I see that before?

I wonder if the Opel injectors want a different #1 O2 sensor, along with tuning?

Dbeluscak

Same O2 sensor, #1 is wideband on the SS. It's basic job is try to correct fueling for A/F ratio. The injector constant being different will definitely make a rich condition. LNF flow is 135lb/hr whereas the Opel is 150lb/hr.

DrLoch

Bingo....... Also without going back and re-reading everything, have you modified the tune for the larger pipe for the MAF, if it is?

drummerboy0088

Well s**t ....that code did come back today when I was driving the half block to the shop. Good news is that's the only code that keeps popping up, if you can consider that good news.

I haven't modified the tune for the car - I was going to tune once I got the 3 bar map sensors, relocate the MAF to the lower charge pipe, and get a forge atmospheric diverter valve. I also wanted to do research to see who's a decent HP tuners guy, or if I should just buy the suite and tune myself....not sure if I have that kind of confidence though.


Brother and I did however mess with the car again for a bit today, and we confirmed there's two separate issues, like RJ mentioned
1) The Whine from Crankcase pressure (most likely due to the catch can)
2) Lack of boost (from a boost leak)



The whine from the crankcase pressure is definitely due to the catch can. With the car running, we removed the manifold line (the one coming from cylinders 2 and 3) from the Tee, and could feel air (a strong force of air) coming out that open port of the Tee. Soon as you put your hand over it, the whine starts up again. We also didn't feel anything coming out of the line between cylinders 2 and 3, but if I'm not mistaken you're not suppose to get anything out of that until you're in boost conditions.



Reconnected the manifold line to the tee, but removed the in (dirty) line to the catch can - crankcase whine went away. The in (dirty) line to the can however, had so much suck that it could easily be used as a mini vacuum. Put our hand over the line, and you could hear the motor start to slow down, - our guess is because there was no feed going to the two clean lines. Checked both check valves on the clean sides of the can, and they only allow air flow towards the intake manifold, or the turbo inlet.

As for boost, we kept the oil cap in, and while in launch mode (which got up to 8psi today) you could hear that there was a hiss almost like a blow off valve. It definitely wasn't the diverter valve on the turbo, or the high flow intake sucking in air - distinguished sound like air being released....boost leak.

Kept the oil cap in this time instead of that clean side separator (first since I was afraid of letting the engine whine) and the half block back to my garage I could feel the car was more responsive since we installed this motor - more like it's suppose to be.

Next Sunday we're devoting the day to this car. Going to pull the bumper off, fabricate a boost leak test and check every connection for the intercooler. As for solving the crankcase whine - we have to think about that.

drummerboy0088

I don't have a HPT suite, but I do have a tech II. Wonder if I can reprogram with that?

donbrew

Maybe some engineer type needs to size the hoses and spec check valves?

RJ_RS_SS_350

Ok for clarity, Fresh air in at the valve cover is port #1, Dirty air out of back of valve cover is port #2, Dirty air out of head(between cyl. 2 & 3) is port #3.

I would think port 2 and 3 should have the same pressure(crankcase). Yours do not. Have you verified that TTR drilled and tapped in the correct location? I know, sounds crazy, they certainly should have. I just duplicated what you describe you did, both of my ports 2 and 3 were basically atmospheric pressure, which I would expect at idle. Little to no blow-by, no pressure in the crankcase.

However, since you're still breaking in, your rings are not seated yet, who knows how much blow-by, and therefore pressure, you have.

But you have pressure at port #3, but not at port #2. Troubling.

Up until recently, my catch can was plumbed into only port #2, and then only into port #3, and never a whine. You may want to just wait on solving the whine for a while, until you have fully seated the rings.

If the cause of the no boost is a boost leak, then you should be able to find it. If there is no leak, then sounds like a tune may fix you up.

drummerboy0088

Thank you all for chiming in!

RJ I'm getting pressure at port 2, and nothing from port 3 during idle. Before we installed we checked to make sure the tap TTR placed between cylinder 2 and 3 lined up with the hole between cylinder 2 and 3, which it did. Since next Sunday is devoted to fixing the problems, we're gonna check the tap for port 3 for any blockage, to see if that's why we're not getting anything from it during idle.

My brother and I also discussed only having the catch can setup between port 2 and the turbo inlet, and having the manifold setup as normal (from port 3 to check valve back to manifold) just to see if that fixes the crankcase whine. Just one of a few ideas we have.

Looks like I'll have to pick up a HPT suite to adjust the car with the upgrades installed.

Oldblue

With your mods a tune is a must!!