LDK build
04-10-2016, 03:29 PM
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-02-2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 383
Update!
Yesterday I disconnected the LNF from the trans and cradle, and was able to remove it from the cradle.
My brother and I couldn't find brackets for the ecotec engine. We even had his old boss (who use to run a GM dealership) look around, and couldn't find them, so we figured there was no choice but to get the biggest hauler straps possible that would fit through the crevices of the engine. First we removed the fuel/rail lines, then wrapped the straps around the engine. Hardest part was fishing the strap between the k04 turbo and the engine, but after a few curse words and some cuts on our hands, we made it happen. Engine lifted without any issues and the straps easily handled the weight since each one was rated at 1800lbs each.
We removed the engine, and started unpacking the LDK motor from ZZP. We should have done this sooner because to our surprise, ZZP had brackets attached to the new motor. We were able to use a chain this time, which was MUCH easier and less stressful. like they say, you learn from your mistakes.
(Brackets are located upper right corner and lower left side by the coolant input to the engine)
Moved the LDK next to the cradle and started dressing the new motor with the LDK/Opel fuel rail lines, and we prepared all the new coolant, radiator, fuel lines since they're sold in sections instead of as one full piece. We used the LNF as a guide to see how the sections went together, and assembled them all. Once the LDK is back on the cradle, we will install them.
We also noticed theres a sensor in the oil pan of the LDK that is not on the LNF. We emailed ZZP to see what this is for and what they recommend we do with it (cover it with electrical tape, remove and put a block off plate, or maybe theres a connection that goes there since it's relocated?)
We were ready to install the LDK onto the cradle - we just needed to remove the flex wheel from the LNF to the LDK, until we noticed a little problem. There were stress cracks.
We called everywhere - got laughed at from speed shops and aftermarket shops. The Local GM dealer can order it, but wouldn't get it for a few days. We have a local contact who can order and have it within 24 hours, so we have to wait until Monday to order it. Rather put a new one in now than the old one which will eventually fail. Then we have to do this all over again in order to get to the flex wheel.
Also another thing I learned - flywheel = manual, flex wheel = automatic.
Feeling that we hit a road block, we coved the engine back in the plastic it was wrapped in from ZZP, that way we don't run the risk of anything getting in an open port. We figured we could replace the engine mount and upper trans mount.
Old Engine Mount
New TTR Engine Mount
Trans mount
Then another problem. The trans mount from OTTP is for manual only, so it didn't line up with the holes on my 4t45 manual transmission. Looks like I'll be sending it back. Really wish someone made a upper trans mount for the automatic!!
So now we need to order and get the new flexwheel along with the TTR intake manifold before we can continue.
Yesterday I disconnected the LNF from the trans and cradle, and was able to remove it from the cradle.
My brother and I couldn't find brackets for the ecotec engine. We even had his old boss (who use to run a GM dealership) look around, and couldn't find them, so we figured there was no choice but to get the biggest hauler straps possible that would fit through the crevices of the engine. First we removed the fuel/rail lines, then wrapped the straps around the engine. Hardest part was fishing the strap between the k04 turbo and the engine, but after a few curse words and some cuts on our hands, we made it happen. Engine lifted without any issues and the straps easily handled the weight since each one was rated at 1800lbs each.
We removed the engine, and started unpacking the LDK motor from ZZP. We should have done this sooner because to our surprise, ZZP had brackets attached to the new motor. We were able to use a chain this time, which was MUCH easier and less stressful. like they say, you learn from your mistakes.
(Brackets are located upper right corner and lower left side by the coolant input to the engine)
Moved the LDK next to the cradle and started dressing the new motor with the LDK/Opel fuel rail lines, and we prepared all the new coolant, radiator, fuel lines since they're sold in sections instead of as one full piece. We used the LNF as a guide to see how the sections went together, and assembled them all. Once the LDK is back on the cradle, we will install them.
We also noticed theres a sensor in the oil pan of the LDK that is not on the LNF. We emailed ZZP to see what this is for and what they recommend we do with it (cover it with electrical tape, remove and put a block off plate, or maybe theres a connection that goes there since it's relocated?)
We were ready to install the LDK onto the cradle - we just needed to remove the flex wheel from the LNF to the LDK, until we noticed a little problem. There were stress cracks.
We called everywhere - got laughed at from speed shops and aftermarket shops. The Local GM dealer can order it, but wouldn't get it for a few days. We have a local contact who can order and have it within 24 hours, so we have to wait until Monday to order it. Rather put a new one in now than the old one which will eventually fail. Then we have to do this all over again in order to get to the flex wheel.
Also another thing I learned - flywheel = manual, flex wheel = automatic.
Feeling that we hit a road block, we coved the engine back in the plastic it was wrapped in from ZZP, that way we don't run the risk of anything getting in an open port. We figured we could replace the engine mount and upper trans mount.
Old Engine Mount
New TTR Engine Mount
Trans mount
Then another problem. The trans mount from OTTP is for manual only, so it didn't line up with the holes on my 4t45 manual transmission. Looks like I'll be sending it back. Really wish someone made a upper trans mount for the automatic!!
So now we need to order and get the new flexwheel along with the TTR intake manifold before we can continue.
04-10-2016, 04:09 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: 05-29-2015
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 542
That electrical connector is for a Low Oil signal. No need to hook it up or plug it. You won't have the connector in your harness anyways. I dealt with the exact same situation removing my LNF. Which fuel rail/injectors are you using? LDK or Opel, there's a difference in flow rates. Neither need a tune but I thought you'd want to know.
Also, nitpicking but if you're learning you got it backwords;
Flexplate = Manual, Flywheel = Auto
Last I checked, anyways glad to see you're back at it and your brother turned out OK! Good news!
Also, nitpicking but if you're learning you got it backwords;
Flexplate = Manual, Flywheel = Auto
Last I checked, anyways glad to see you're back at it and your brother turned out OK! Good news!
04-10-2016, 05:21 PM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-02-2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 383
Thanks debluscak! I didn't think there would be a connector.
Brother is doing alright, thanks for asking! He's been cleared for light duty, so no heavy lifting. He sat in a chair and advised me on what to do.
I'm running the Opel ones from ZZP - Opel HP Direct Injection Fuel Injectors - Fueling . When ZZP said you needed to transfer the manifold, fuel rail lines, high pressure fuel pump, I decided to just get the opel injectors. I don't think the fuel pump on the front of the LNF is any different than the LDK - and I'm going with the TTR manifold.
Brother is doing alright, thanks for asking! He's been cleared for light duty, so no heavy lifting. He sat in a chair and advised me on what to do.
I'm running the Opel ones from ZZP - Opel HP Direct Injection Fuel Injectors - Fueling . When ZZP said you needed to transfer the manifold, fuel rail lines, high pressure fuel pump, I decided to just get the opel injectors. I don't think the fuel pump on the front of the LNF is any different than the LDK - and I'm going with the TTR manifold.
04-10-2016, 06:59 PM
#16
Administrator
Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,493
Flywheel is for clutch to bolt upto
https://www.modernperformance.com/pr...-ss-drivetrain
Flex plate is to bolt the torque converter to ( this is a picture of a used one, I never use a used flex plate or flex plate bolts)
http://m.ebay.com/itm/FLYWHEEL-FROM-A-2008-CHEVY-HHR-2-2L-ENGINE-8TH-VIN-DIGIT-D-/272167276519?nav=SEARCH
https://www.modernperformance.com/pr...-ss-drivetrain
Flex plate is to bolt the torque converter to ( this is a picture of a used one, I never use a used flex plate or flex plate bolts)
http://m.ebay.com/itm/FLYWHEEL-FROM-A-2008-CHEVY-HHR-2-2L-ENGINE-8TH-VIN-DIGIT-D-/272167276519?nav=SEARCH
04-11-2016, 08:26 AM
#18
Technical Moderator
Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,686
The first time I ever heard of a flex plate was last year when somebody ordered a flywheel and sent it back because they sent him a flywheel, not a flex plate. I always thought they were the same thing.
04-11-2016, 08:36 AM
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-02-2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 383
We thought the same thing Donbrew, until I started googling "Flywheel HHR SS" and the images showed more than what was needed. Googling "Flexplate HHR SS" came up with images of what we were looking for. Luckily there was a part number on the flex wheel (GM 12589349), and it kept coming up as "Engine Crankshaft Plate" on all the GM parts sites.
Local contact quoted $75 and it will arrive tomorrow - brand new BTW, I'm not a fan of buying used parts, especially internal(s) parts.
Local contact quoted $75 and it will arrive tomorrow - brand new BTW, I'm not a fan of buying used parts, especially internal(s) parts.