Finish the final 2" of hose for the catch can to the intake manifold, checked to make sure coolant was full. Climbed into the back, and had to hit the latch release for the hatch since we closed it - reconnected the battery and it was finally time to start it up!

One problem...battery was dead. Guess that's what happens when you have the battery disconnected and the car sat in a cold garage since the end of January. Grabbed a jump box and we were good to go.

With the rail lines disconnected I turned the car over until the oil light went out (per ZZPs instructions). Soon as it went out, connected the rail line and tried to turn it over. Didn't turn over at first - brother and I figured it was because fuel needed to get through all the lines. Stopped, then tried again and she started up!

Couple things...
1) fuel pressure was around 560 psi, then it started jumping from 560-640psi back and forth. once I turned the car off, then turned the key to the ON position without starting the engine, the fuel pressure on the Performance Display started climbing to around 900psi. As soon as I started the car again, right back down to 560-640 psi range. Anyone know what it's suppose to be at during idle?

2) Tach was reading 1500 at initial startup, then after about 2 minutes dropped down to 1000, I'm hoping it continues to drop after we do the break in procedure.

3) From inside the car I saw smoke rising from the engine bay while the motor idled and I turned it off immediately in a panic. Brother was looking under the engine bay the entire time - no leaks, said it smelled more like coating burning off like on new exhaust systems, so we're thinking it's just everything starting to seat. Doing a little google search shows this is common as the rings begin to seat.


Now ZZP recommends while in gear rev to 4500 then back down to idle. Then rev to 5000, 5500, 6000, 6500 and each time let it coast close to idle to help seat the rings. They then say to drive the car 500 miles with the comp cam break in oil, then drain and replace oil and filter with whatever I plan on running in the motor (Mobil1).

HOWEVER - I posted about this on The Chevy HHR SS Facebook page too, and someone was telling me that doesn't properly break in the motor. They recommended running the car for 20 minutes to get to the proper engine temp, then change the oil/filter. Put conventional oil with a break in additive for 200 miles - then run just conventional oil for 500 miles. Change the oil/filter again and inspect the filter to make sure there's no metal shavings, if there isn't then it's good to put a filter and synthetic oil and be good to go.

I guess I should follow both? Looks like I'm going to be spending some money on frequent oil changes and filters.


Either way...

 

AWESOME!
Any codes?

 

We just wanted to see if it would start. The check engine light was on, and we're hoping it was because we tried starting up without having the rail lines connected, and we didn't have the car run long enough to have that reset automatically (if it even would). We're not going to have a chance to get back to it until Monday unfortunately.

We still need to finish up the Brembo brakes, and mess with one of the fittings for the driver side to get the braided brake line to catch properly. Once we do that we will put the tires on and do the ZZP rev. procedure while it's still on the lift. After that, I'll scan and see what the codes are for.

 

Dollars to doughnuts p0335 crankshaft position sensor needs to be relearned.

 

Whatever it is - I just hope it's an easy fix!

 

It is an easy fix; IF you have a Tech2 or a capable computer.

It MUST be learned by the ECU, even if you took the old one out and switched them. I'm surprised that ZZP didn't include that info.

 

They didn't - but we do have a tech 2. We're working in an old GM dealership and they had their contract with GM when the HHR was released, so it the tech 2 should be up to date and we should be able to reprogram the ECU.

 

Give me a day I'll try to PM something to you.

 

Awesome - thanks Donbrew!

 

I didn't need to relearn the crank after installing my wife's LDK. Also, I would follow comp cams instructions on the quart. I ran 200 miles with break in oil. Then went Mobil 1. Saw no major drop in the first 4000. And that's where it is now, it'll have it's first synthetic change when it gets back on the street (soon I hope).

I had a garage full of smoke after I got it warmed up... that's when I realized I used 900* paint instead of 1500" on the exhaust manifold...whoops. Now it's powder coated so we'll see how it stands up.

Looks like you're about crossing the finish line. Congrats! My dash lit up like a Christmas tree on initial startup. I got all the gremlins out, except p0176 that still pops at some point during every drive. I have HPT finally so I'll get that sorted soon.

Again, congrats Sir. Your fuel trims will probably need adjusted as the opel injectors flow 15+/lbs more per minute. Are you using blow thru MAF now as well? Because your MAF will need some serious calibration. Even with zzp's tune my STFT will jump between -8 and +13. It should be -1/+1. Which could be the cause of my 0176 "a lean bank 1".