jerseyjim

OLDBLUE: My 2007 is a LT with the larger motor...and has disc anti-locks up front and drums in the back.

Oldblue

Great now follow the search for adjusting your rear drum brakes as mentioned before

Laco

The OEM rotors are not the best in the world, but I'm convinced the primary cause for them getting out of round, is incorrect torqueing of the wheel lugs. Now having said that, even if torqued correctly, they can still cause judder, but its not quite as likely, IMO.

jczboy

If you are looking for the SS brakes... I have them. Let me know

hyperv6

Here is the deal. The brake pulse is not from junk rotor and expensive vented, drilled or slotted will not fix this. They are for cosmetic reason only on street cars and really do little to help anything. In fact many that are drilled are not even recommended for track time and for no racing at all. The holes used to out gas organic pads but they are no longer on the market. Also racers used to drill them for weight but you only see them on drag cars and bikes anymore.

Hubs like stated can go bad 40K-200,000K miles. To know if they are bad check the ay and if they are .002 out then they need replaced. When they are out the rotor wobbles and will hit the pads and wear the rotors uneven and people will suspect they are warped when in fact the thickness is varied. It is called Rotor Thickness Variation. GM even has TSB's on it.

While a rotor can warp a small amount the rotor is floating so it will move with any deviation.

Also you can get embedded brake material in the rotors if they were not seated or bedded in. Many mechanics fail to do this and the result will also create a judder.

By bedding them in you will lay a coating of brake material into the surface evenly and when the brakes are hot they will not make a spot where the material will build and catch on each application of the brake. Odds are If your rear brakes are not adjusted up and the front rotors are not bedded in this is what is happening.

The first step to fix this issue is #1 forget about brake warp #2 Forget they are overheating #3 forget expensive rotors.

I work in the performance aftermarket and have been through training with Hawk, EBC, Bendix, Willwood and Stainless Steel brakes. They all will back up what I have stated and most do so in their tech sections of their web sites. The reason so many people have issues with brakes are they are not as they used to be. In the past the pads drug on the rotors all the time and the bearings were taper rollers. Today the pads retract and the bearings hubs are ball bearings that have less rolling resistance but also wear or can get damaged much easier than rollers.

With this said have the hubs checked and see if they are out. If not do a light cut or replace the rotors with a good OE solid replacement. Bendix has a good replacement. Then get some good pads from EBC or Hawk. If you are going to spend money do it on what matters the pads and they transfer the heat. Then read the instructions on bedding and have the mechanic do it or do it yourself. Also make sure the rear shoes are adjusted up and the adjusters are free.

The greatest issue is people treat the symptom as a warp and never address the hubs or brake pad seating. In doing so they get the same issue over and over again. They also like to treat brake jobs as they did back in the 70's and 80's brecause they have not kept up with the small changes that can make a difference.

Also read up on the stoptech brake web site on warp. Carol Smith one of the best race car tuners of all time addresses the issue as well as anyone has. No matter if it is a street car or race car the principals are all the same.

As for the expensive dimples or drilled rotors. Just look the best racing brakes in the world from F1-Indy-Nascar and IMSA and they all use solids with only a few cuts to clear rubber away from the rotor that can build up on track. The F1 are ceramic and that is another ball game altogether but they are now on some high end street cars.

I will try to check back if you have questions but I stand on what I have stated and check the tech web sites of the companies I listed and they will back up what I state. Too many people like to argue these points and can not back it up.

I hope this can help answer what you are looking for. Note too if you are flat towing a car the rotors can still wobble and create RTV. Highway miles can create this issue more than city driving. Towing would do the same if the front wheels are down on the ground towing. Note if the rotors have pad material build up it can happen on both sides but on some car the inside gets it the worst. I have a set of rotors I save that you can even see the dark lines. I use it to show people what happens. I should see if I can dig it up and take a photo.

donbrew

I vote for hubs as the #1 culprit.

However, I was a little surprised that (when I replaced my rotors after about 100K because I suddenly got bad judder and had a set in the garage) the judder did go almost away. I am waiting until the loud noises start to put the new hubs from the shelf on.

hyperv6

Now don't wipe the new rotors out with the bad hubs. The play is the issue and they may not make noise but still cause RTV.

jerseyjim

Again...thanks to the replys. Just this morning went to the shop. Put a dial indicator on both hubs...neither one "ran out" more than .002. There was plenty of "meat' on the pads, the calipers worked as they should...however, we put on new rotors...not NAPA, but a different brand. So...the pulsing or "judder" (as it's called here) has stopped...at least for now. As far as the steering wheel movement when applying/releasing the brakes, the car stops in a straight line. Mechanic suggests maybe a brake line is wearing out from within(?) and due to be changed. Maybe all the brake lines. Not now, tho. The rear drum brakes were tightened up.
So, for now, let's see. And the best part? No bill. Gratis. Can't beat that.......