I just turn on my foglights and the DRL's go out.

 

 

Before I forget, just wanted to mention...

Love what you did with the inside of your garage. Or is that the master bedroom? Hard to tell. Anyway, the cartoon theme looks FABULOUS!

 

Absolutely, lights will go out. No doubt though the headlamp manufacturers are lovin' DRLs.

 

Very good. You've found a solution to your DRL problem then.

 

Remember folks, I just want to manually switch DRLs. Nothing more or less, for now. I realize this has been somewhat of a contentious issue but the operative word is "control". And I don't want to pull any fuses or install fog lights.

It's looking pretty nice out today and with nothing more important to do think I'll go take another look at that E-brake switch. For those who are interested, I'll let you know what I find.

 

Well now you know there is a fuse....... Where there is a fuse there can be a switch.

Not contentious, just lively.

 

Nope. Not a problem on my end. It was just an observation. I kind of like the DRL's myself.

Now. I do admire the fact that you want to have control over your's. I have the same attitude about things like that.

 

And I have discovered you are correct Donbrew.

I ended up pulling the fuse, #31 under the hood. Everything is normal. Just no more DRLs. I still like the idea of switching them though. In the future I'll run some wire from the fuse block, install an inline fuse holder and hide a toggle under the dash somewhere. Wont take more than a half-hour and maybe 5 bucks. Sound about right?

In case there others who enjoy learning the "hard way", here's what I found out today:

1. The E-brake lever on my 2011 has nothing to do with the DRLs, at least not that I could see. The lever switch I mentioned earlier in this thread, which is found deep under the console attached to the ebrake, operates the dash ebrake indicator only.

2. Taking apart the console is easy - at first. And gets progressively more difficult the deeper you go. Wire connectors all have those PITA locks on them. You cant just unsnap them. And you'll need a deep socket 10mm to take the entire console apart. It is NOT recommended you remove the plastic parts under and attached to the shifter, especially the vinyl shift lever boot. It was a B**CH to get back onto the shifter knob.

3. From what I could see, there's not much worth getting into under the console except maybe running some wire or adjusting the ebrake cable/lever. The top of the console between the seats pops right off for that purpose.

4. If you really like a spiffy clean HHR, then by all means dig into the console. I found a LOT of gunk in the cracks and crevices. For that alone it was worth taking apart.

 

I think that the BCM reads the dash light or vice versa.