ABS kicking in when it shouldn't
Most likely you have a bad hub and just can't hear it yet, or a brake that is not engaging. That is where your diagnosing should centered. Has anyone ever checked the rear brakes, or adjusted them?
The only inputs to the ABS system are the wheel speed sensors.
I disconnected the ABS and took the car for a spin. The behaviour went away so I know for sure this is ABS kicking in. Reconnnected the ABS and it is back. Now I need to isolate, but difficult with no codes.
Again.. the ABS kicks in randomly and only for a split second. There seems to be no rhyme nor reason to it.. i.e. happens at any speed when braking, at a hard brake or soft brake, and very random, maybe 10% of the time I brake.
The tires are all the same. The brakes are fine. Maybe a bad bearing, maybe a bad speed sensor, maybe a bad wiring harness. This will take some time in troubleshooting. Since it is probably a Chevy issue rather than HHR issue I will scour the Chevy forums looking for an answer. No one here seems to have experienced this.
When I get it fixed, I'll update this thread.
Again.. the ABS kicks in randomly and only for a split second. There seems to be no rhyme nor reason to it.. i.e. happens at any speed when braking, at a hard brake or soft brake, and very random, maybe 10% of the time I brake.
The tires are all the same. The brakes are fine. Maybe a bad bearing, maybe a bad speed sensor, maybe a bad wiring harness. This will take some time in troubleshooting. Since it is probably a Chevy issue rather than HHR issue I will scour the Chevy forums looking for an answer. No one here seems to have experienced this.
When I get it fixed, I'll update this thread.
With the tech two hooked up and looking at the wheel speed sensors, drive the car slow to a stop and you will see one of the wheel speed sensors go to 0 speed when all the others show some speed.
The one that go's to 0 too early is the one that's causing you problem.
The one that go's to 0 too early is the one that's causing you problem.
The real way to diagnose is to pay someone that knows what they are doing. They need to read live data while the car is being driven. A good scantool (like Snap-On sells) can do the job tech2 not required. The guys I have asked said about $75.
You could just replace all 4 hubs.
IF the ABS and/or ESC light is on there will be codes, apparently ours don't store them.
You could just replace all 4 hubs.
IF the ABS and/or ESC light is on there will be codes, apparently ours don't store them.
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dchris1918
2.0L Performance Tech
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Aug 25, 2009 06:57 PM



