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Electrical Nightmare

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Old Sep 30, 2020 | 02:26 PM
  #141  
GreyHHR#2009's Avatar
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From: MI
The rear wiper switch on the waterfall was connected when all this crap was happening. I removed the waterfall entire panel and radio( says locked out anyway). So right now with key on rear wiper comes on with switch unplugged and only shuts off by disconnecting the battery( same with low beam headlights).
Old Sep 30, 2020 | 03:29 PM
  #142  
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Does that info change anything?

Look for a yellow wire that has been cut at the BCM. That is the park signal for the rear wiper. And then look for the yellow wire at the rear wiper motor.

Does the washer work? front and rear? If the washer pump is running in the rear direction the rear wiper is activated. Could the wiring at the pump be screwed with?
Old Sep 30, 2020 | 06:34 PM
  #143  
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First let me apologize. The rear wiper and the DRL come on as soon as the battery is connected and NO key in the ignition.
Still looking for the yellow wire(there are several by the BSM. The front wipers and washer work normally.
Iwould like to resolve the lights on when battery is connected and only go off when disconnecting the battery. The rear wiper can be disconnected at the motor as someone suggested before.
Old Sep 30, 2020 | 08:41 PM
  #144  
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They seem to be connected.
I meant to look for a DAMAGED yellow wire. Like a splice or a cut. It would be on the bottom right connector.

Is there a switch or wiring for fog lights under the waterfall? Maybe somebody was trying to make fog lights work; the yellow wire for that is on the left connector. Mixing them up could make troubles.
Old Sep 30, 2020 | 08:54 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by GreyHHR#2009
Until the windows issue was resolved the rear wiper was stuck in the half up position. There are wiper issue started the same time as the low beam lights . They both come on with the key and only shut off by disconnecting the negative side of the battery.
Ok, when did these issues start, or more important, what happened right before the issues began? Collision, drove over debris, any repairs performed, anything.
Old Oct 18, 2020 | 03:23 PM
  #146  
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Joined: 10-18-2020
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From: Kentucky
Hi Grey, I have same window switch issue on my 2009 LT . The driver's switch works the driver's window but no others- I hear the corresponding window's motor click when I hit any other switch button on the driver master or on the other 3 doors , no windows move . I pulled back the driver's carpet ( which was wet-gonna have to find where that came from, pulled it out to dry ) and found the wire bundle . I do not want to cut into the larger gauge dark green wire to check it ,which I think is the power feed to the other windows, 30 amp fuse in BCM is good , radio and drivers window works when HHR is not running so should not be a RAP issue- right ? Passenger window motor works when I jump power to it . . Where does the other end of the dark green wire from the driver's module tie in on BCM so I can check power from it ? BTW, windows were working fine until about a week ago, nothing changed that I know of from that time and the under hood fuses are good . Thanks to all you guys for the great info on this
site, have fixed a few things already ..

Last edited by 2009TechnoGreyLT; Oct 18, 2020 at 03:27 PM. Reason: additional info
Old Oct 18, 2020 | 03:34 PM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by 2009TechnoGreyLT
Hi Grey, I have same window switch issue on my 2009 LT . The driver's switch works the driver's window but no others- I hear the corresponding window's motor click when I hit any other switch button on the driver master or on the other 3 doors , no windows move . I pulled back the driver's carpet ( which was wet-gonna have to find where that came from, pulled it out to dry ) and found the wire bundle . I do not want to cut into the larger gauge dark green wire to check it ,which I think is the power feed to the other windows, 30 amp fuse in BCM is good , radio and drivers window works when HHR is not running so should not be a RAP issue- right ? Passenger window motor works when I jump power to it . . Where does the other end of the dark green wire from the driver's module tie in on BCM so I can check power from it ? BTW, windows were working fine until about a week ago, nothing changed that I know of from that time and the under hood fuses are good . Thanks to all you guys for the great info on this
site, have fixed a few things already ..
The large green comes from BCM to the connection under the carpet under the large bundle. At this point the Large wire goes to the drivers door control switch and splits off into three smaller green wires to the other three door window switches. Take the shrink tube off this wire splice and clean and repair as needed. Corrosion drops amperage. That fixed my issue.
Old Oct 18, 2020 | 05:02 PM
  #148  
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From: Kentucky
Thanks- So the large green in the bundle is the incoming from BCM to the driver master switch, then from master switch sends 3 smaller gauge same dark green color out to the door switches . I will start there and work my way to the other doors , cleaning and checking as I go. I'll post again when I find the culprit . ;-)
Old Oct 18, 2020 | 06:11 PM
  #149  
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Each door has it's own supply. The master switch sends logic level signals to the doors.
The splice on the green wire is where the individual doors breakout is. One fuse, large wire to splice, 4 out. Sounds like the engineers took a day off. The other end is at the underhood fuse box #36.

The RAP wire is yellow and comes from the BCM #17
Old Oct 21, 2020 | 07:31 PM
  #150  
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From: Kentucky
Thanks Don, will work on it this weekend and (hopefully ) post my findings .



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