Yes, socket size (18 mm) seems very loose

 

I go thru the starter mount hole.

 

So try a 17mm or an SAE standard that fits.
Also use 6 point sockets not 12 point.

 

I just did this.

I used a 6-point socket with a short extension and a 3/8" ratchet. Yes, the socket hits the block a little, just like the ratchet will rest against the block. The socket will only be angled a few degrees from vertical and won't affect removal of the bolt. The good news is that the socket will hit the edge of the starter cutout in the block, preventing the flywheel from rotating as you unscrew the bolt. The bolt heads are thinner than usual for a bolt, so make sure you keep the socket seated on the bolt so you don't round it over.

You will need a socket and ratchet on the crankshaft bolt to turn the flywheel to the next bolt. Turn the crank in the direction of engine rotation only. I'm not sure if this is necessary for our engines, but in the old days you didn't want to turn it opposite engine rotation.

The bolts come out a little hard the whole way, maybe due to factory threadlocker or an interference fit with the torque converter thread.

Steve

 

But still , what size socket?

 

I just completed the removal. What a pain. I heated the bolt w soldiering torch 30-45 sec then cooled w ice cube. Seem to make removal easier. I used 18mm - 6 point socket, 3/8in rotational breaker bar ~ 10 in long. I did not need to hold the crank as the socket hits the top of the starter hole as described above.

questions on using replacement bolts or not:
1) did use replacement bolts? Hesitant to try to put same bolts back and get ft/# torque without stripping bolt? If replace, what type bolt work well (manufacture & part # please). Didn’t like OEM bolt head depth, but don’t want to install a bolt that’s unproven.
2) what threadlocker strength did you use (blue-medium or red-high)?
3) what torque required? (My torque wrench is a 1/2 drive with a bigger head and I envision it will not fit well in the tight space between block. My torque wrench does not rotate, but I have a rotating 3/8 to 3/8 adapter.)

comments/suggestion welcome
chria

 

OEM or ARP torque converter bolts , blue Loctite,

 

The original bolts were easy to remove because of the heat on them.
Heat is used as the releasing agent for Loctite.
If the original bolt heads aren't mauld up reuse them.
I would wire wheel the treads of the bolt and chase the treads in the converter also.
Clean both thread area's with brake clean so the surfaces are free of oil.
Use Blue Loctite (don't need much a drop will do).
The height of that bolt head being shorter might be for cleanance between it and back of block.
Do you know anyone with a 3/8 wobble extension ? That might be helpful of making the socket fit flush to the bolt head.
Or if you were using a 3" extension possibly a 1" would work.
I wouldn't worry about stripping out the threads either

If your bolts look like these, a M10x1.5 (Grade 10.9) would be torqued to 75 Nm or 55 lb/ft.

 

Awesome,
my look like...

 

Clean those threads , a drop or blue Loctite and use them again