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Fog light wiring using passenger side empty slot

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Fog light wiring using passenger side empty slot

Old 12-06-2018, 01:06 PM
  #11  
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The switch would supply ground to the relay coil. Power to the coil should come from a IGN circuit.
The problem/benefit with using the low beam circuit is the DRL. If you use #65 or #66 the fogs would be enabled and disabled by shifting the trans in/out. But, the auto off might be handy. I would use it to power the coil, maybe.

The rear power outlet is fuse #30 20A nothing else on the circuit. Seems like a good source.

Low voltage... BS it's all 12V. The switch should go to ground NOT hot. The guy has really bad theory. If you connect 12V to the switch it will arc every time you click it. The guy is showing you how to make a fire. The object of the relay is not isolate high voltage, it is to isolate the SWITCH from high CURRENT.

RELAY
pin 85 switch
pin 86 fuse #65 tap load side
pin 30 fuse #30 tap load side
pin 87 to fog +

SWITCH
one side to GROUND

the other to pin 30,
if you never use the rear power outlet disconnect it no inline fuse needed. Unless the lights need more than 20A, then use an inline and tap the hot side.
all fuses in under hood fuse box. If this is a panel not sure about the rear power outlet.

Last edited by donbrew; 12-06-2018 at 01:59 PM.
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Old 12-06-2018, 02:10 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by donbrew View Post
The switch would supply ground to the relay coil. Power to the coil should come from a IGN circuit.
The problem/benefit with using the low beam circuit is the DRL. If you use #65 or #66 the fogs would be enabled and disabled by shifting the trans in/out. But, the auto off might be handy. I would use it to power the coil, maybe.

The rear power outlet is fuse #30 20A nothing else on the circuit. Seems like a good source.

Low voltage... BS it's all 12V. The switch should go to ground NOT hot. The guy has really bad theory. If you connect 12V to the switch it will arc every time you click it. The guy is showing you how to make a fire. The object of the relay is not isolate high voltage, it is to isolate the SWITCH from high CURRENT.

RELAY
pin 85 switch
pin 86 fuse #65 tap load side
pin 30 fuse #30 tap load side
pin 87 to fog +

SWITCH
one side to GROUND

the other to pin 30,
if you never use the rear power outlet disconnect it no inline fuse needed. Unless the lights need more than 20A, then use an inline and tap the hot side.
all fuses in under hood fuse box. If this is a panel not sure about the rear power outlet.
Thanks Donbrew for shining more light to this. I am going to fix up my wiring before connecting anything.

BTW, you mentioned Pin 30 from relay & pin from switch tap to #30 (LOW BEAM), so I will need to do a connection to pin 30 from switch and then have a wire to fuse tap and tap into #30 correct.

Apologize for my ignorance but I really appreciate the help.


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Old 12-06-2018, 07:55 PM
  #13  
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Fuse #30 is the rear cigarette lighter. Fuse #65 is the Lt low beam

PIN means post number on relay

Fuse # means a fuse position in the underhood fuse box.

for instance:
pin86 fuse #65 means connect pin #86 on the relay to a fuse tap on fuse #65 (doesn't really matter which side)

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Old 12-27-2018, 12:11 PM
  #14  
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Fog Light wiring done!!!

Thanks to all for the support.

Was able to attack the fog light wiring this weekend with success.

Below is what I did and worked for me. Not responsible for anyone using my method and causes damage to their vehicle. Try at your own risk.

1. Ordered fuse tap kit, relays, heat shrink butt connectors, ring terminals, terminal connectors, assorted nuts and bolts and 12 and 14 gauge wiring.

2. Removed all the old wiring and installed color coded wiring using black (ground) and red (hot/power) wires from fog lights to keep it consistent.

3. Wired up relay using the below per pin to correct source (see pin layout with connected source explained at the end of instructions)

4. Verified the in and out of fuse #23 (constant 12v for power to fogs) underhood and #21 (power to switch in cabin) on the passenger side in cabin to plug in fuse taps properly. Was not able to use #30 fuse due to fuse tap not fitting correctly due to surrounding fuses. Note that since there were no fuses originally on the fuse slots, I only inserted a fuse on the top slot (extra fuse) of the fuse tap to power the fogs and switch (see diagram explaining fuse tap below).

5. Connected fuse taps as needed and added a 15 amp fuse to #23 (12v constant source power to fogs) and 5 amp fuse to #21 (switch power source).

6. Plugged relay after all was connected and fuse taps in place.

7. Used a ring terminal and nut to hook up ground from relay to strut bolt after verifying a good ground.

8. Flipped the switch and kept the fogs on while putting away tools and taking it out for a 45 min spin. No hot wires and fogs function like a dream. Since my switch is connected to fuse #21 in cabin the fogs cut out the moment I open the door if I forget to flip the switch off.


Relay layout, colors in picture below:

Pin 87 - connected to fog lights - Fog lights were grounded using chassis ground from each light. (Blue)

Pin 85 - Ground connected to strut bolt closest to firewall keeping the main ground with label free in case I ever need to jump my car. (Black)
Pin 30 - Used fuse tap and tapped in fuse #23 in underhood fuse box since it was an empty slot and was showing constant 12v with multimeter. (Red)
Pin 86 - Connected to one wire coming from switch. (White), 2nd wire from switch was connected to fuse tap on #21 fuse in cabin.
Pin 87A - Not used, just used heat shrink tube to prevent any issues with exposed wiring. (Yellow)




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