Oh yea, I put new rubber bar bushing in awhile back. As for the drivers side, it's different. I cant pull the stub shaft out because its like a foot long and hooked to other side of the differential way inside the trany. So that side is not a teeter tooter. Any wear on the driver side has hardly no impact on the differential. So I doubt the driver side is the problem. On top of that, I can stick my thumb into the trany spline on the passenger side and make the gears clonk together. I made a phone video while I did it. The clonk is pretty pronounced even by hand. So the problem is wear that makes the passenger side differential gear clonk. Once i tear apart another trany I have on the floor, I can better see what's in there that wears out. I will bang on stuff a little more but I seem to be beating the same dead horse I beat on when I was a kid with loose CV joint in an 85 Daytona. I gave up fixing that but it was more of a curiosity than a problem. It seems GM likes to make tranys that get loose on the short output slines.

 

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Kind of bold statement based on 1 observation.
There is no stub shaft on the driver side, just the output shaft.
There is a link to FREE shop manuals in my sig. Transmission is included.

#60 is something called "case to final drive bushing". #2 is the oil seal.

 

Well, based on 2 observations now. The Daytona trany was also front wheel drive with output splines that were really loose. The stub shaft was part of the CV joint on Daytonas. So the bearing inside Daytona trany was loose for an undiscovered reason. Thanks for posting the parts schematics as that is a big help on problems. I can see the bushing behind the output shaft seal and it moves around with finger action, even thought it doesn't look damaged. And the stub shaft moves up and down abnormally creating a banging noise. So the stub shaft is tossing the the differential gear around, as the heavy CV knuckle in motion thrashes it around. And that's where all the clunking seems to come from. Ill get a better look at the structure when I tear my other trany apart. I have no immediate plans to tear into my running car with the clunking trany. It runs well and I need it for lots going on this summer. If it fails on me all the sudden, then I have 2 other working tranys I would likely swap out to get me going quickly again. But figuring out this clunk will help me determine if the other 2 tranys might be clunkers too. I got no idea how common this clunking really is, until I see what is clunking.

 

I thought Daytona was a Dodge.

 

Replace the part #60 , see if that fixes the clunking.

 

Oh yea, Dodge was GM products so they used lots of the same engineering. Opps, Dodge is Chrysler, sorry if my brain fart offended anybody, hah. But both cars bugged me with the same wobbly half shaft troubles. Wow, I just saw that you have ALL car manuals posted older than 10 years. That is awesome. You must be hooked into the repair industry. My next vehicle will be my first FORD and it will be a used Transit 350. Big as I can get economically. Too bad you don't have schematics to those, as I figure I will need to replace the wet timing belt as soon as I find a good running vehicle. Can't be trusting an old one of those to come apart on me with no useful warranty.

As for part #60, Ill see if I can get it out of my floor trany without major disassembly. I had my finger all over it and it did not seem to want to come out easy. I have a small ID puller, so I can also add some extra persuasion to see what happens. All on the floor trany. That way I don't risk damage to my running car.

 

Those shop manuals are not my work. Just a website that publishes them. You can download them if you worry that the copyright police will shut them down.

This vid might save you some effort. 4t40 is the same as 4t45. The 4t45 can handle a heavier load.

 

I got side tracked and will get back to this shortly. It still clunks pretty much like it's been but maybe it's abit quieter. It seems to be a little bit better, Especially on smooth pavement. Usually even the tiniest bumps would make a clonk, but it now seems to resist these tiny bumps to make smooth pavement especially peaceful. That is what I have noticed. But since then, Trump started the clock on AliExpress and TEMU trariffs, so I been frantically ordering everything I could think of. And now I can relax and get back to all the normal stuff, since prices have now been nearly doubled. I got a scope meter for $95 that is now $191, so more than doubled in some cases. I ordered 120 items that needed tons of research so I been glued to internet shopping all month.