key fob resolder successful; 4x
key fob resolder successful; 4x
A week ago, I went outside to go to work, expecting to use the key to unlock the door (my last working key fob failed/broke the previous day). I had gone to Autozone to check/replace the battery, and when I opened the case to replace...the battery holder fell out. And the other fob (I never had opened the other fob, assuming it held a dead battery) dead also....So, when I turned the door key , it wouldn't turn I had never used the key in the lock before (I will now, to ensure that it will not seize up again). Well anyhow, after driving the 2500HD to work (at 11 mpg in traffic!), I asked a techie to solder the holder back in place. He did, and it worked, when I got home. The next day (Saturday), I told my wife that I was going to fix my other fob the same way (if I could find the soldering iron). She then brought me both of her fobs for the Cobalt. It turns out that they had both quit working a few weeks (or months) before, but she didn't want me to know, as I would rant that she BROKE 'em (20 years of mis-communication here!). So, in twenty minutes, I had the three fobs soldered, with new batteries installed, and tested. I guess I need to ask her more questions about her car (I've got some horror stories about her other cars that I daren't repeat in mixed company).
I have the same problem with both. I tried soldering the battery holder but it didn't work. It seems like the holder broke out of the circuit board and I'm pretty sure I soldered it to the right contacts, but no luck. Seems like these GM fobs ain't to good. How and what did you solder?
Larry the new guy
Larry the new guy
Give this "How To" thread a read Larry, it goes through all the steps.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-tutorial-library-21/keyfob-cold-solder-repair-22641/
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-tutorial-library-21/keyfob-cold-solder-repair-22641/
After reading all the comments regarding fixing these darn fobs, I got out our two that I thought I had ruined and discovered the horn honk button still worked. Of course this means my solder jobs worked. I had no idea that the contacts could go bad, so now I'll work on that. I think I've seen replacement fobs and the soft rubber contact unit in auto parts stores, which I'd rather pay for than trying to glue new contacts over the existing contacts. Should'nt you be able to press a piece of metal against the contacts on the circuit board and have it work? Mine doesn't work that way, so I'm wondering if that part of the fob is broken?
After reading all the comments regarding fixing these darn fobs, I got out our two that I thought I had ruined and discovered the horn honk button still worked. Of course this means my solder jobs worked. I had no idea that the contacts could go bad, so now I'll work on that. I think I've seen replacement fobs and the soft rubber contact unit in auto parts stores, which I'd rather pay for than trying to glue new contacts over the existing contacts. Should'nt you be able to press a piece of metal against the contacts on the circuit board and have it work? Mine doesn't work that way, so I'm wondering if that part of the fob is broken?
B: E Bay has lots of options, pads & cases, new fobs, Keyless fix etc. rather cheap.
C: sometimes it is the transmitter that gets weak, mine did that. Sometimes worked, jumping the contacts would not work, new fob works.
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Sep 23, 2013 07:44 PM



