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Misfire Mayhem

Old Jun 21, 2023 | 10:05 PM
  #51  
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From: centralia
Originally Posted by PulpFriction
Quick check, after it's been sitting and you're expecting a long start, turn the key to "on" but not to start. This will initiate the fuel pump. It will only run for about 2 seconds before it times out with no start sequence initiated. When you hear the pump turn off or after 3 seconds turn the key off. Do this twice. This is to build the line pressure to normal. Then start as normal and see if the long start is unchanged, worse, or gone. Wondering if your fuel pump check valve is working. (Wasn't this discussed already?)

I'm also suspicious of your new injectors. To clarify, did you or did you not still have a P0017 at the time you changed those injectors?
Fuel pump is BRAND NEW just installed.
no p0017 code is gone it only popped up after I did the timing chain, when I put the exh. cam gear on i had to rotate it to get the peg to slip in.... i rotated the wrong way it's fixed p0017 is gone.

like i said before the new fuel pump it would have to turn over 7-8 times before it would start
AFTER the new fuel pump, it only has to turn over 3-4 times... so it had an effect also with the new fuel pump gained about 5lbs pressure sits dead on 60lbs while running now and does not lose pressure after being shut down.
Old Jun 21, 2023 | 10:31 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by PBwithJ
Fuel pump is BRAND NEW just installed.
no p0017 code is gone it only popped up after I did the timing chain, when I put the exh. cam gear on i had to rotate it to get the peg to slip in.... i rotated the wrong way it's fixed p0017 is gone.

like i said before the new fuel pump it would have to turn over 7-8 times before it would start
AFTER the new fuel pump, it only has to turn over 3-4 times... so it had an effect also with the new fuel pump gained about 5lbs pressure sits dead on 60lbs while running now and does not lose pressure after being shut down.


ALSO: let it prime twice.... no change
Old Jun 22, 2023 | 12:47 AM
  #53  
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just watched this dudes video.. he did the same as I, just throwing parts at it trying to solve it to no avail..

this long start wasn't an issue until i did the injectors and at the same time, fixed my timing gear error...

when doing the injectors, I had removed the fuel pump relay and fuse...
I now wonder if it's a bad connection... will explore it tomorrow.
Old Jun 22, 2023 | 04:20 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by PBwithJ
ALSO: let it prime twice.... no change
OK, good. A glutton for punishment, I re-read the entire thread. If I understand correctly, you're on your second set of new injectors, right? I'd like to know exactly what brand and p/n they are. And the way you stated in comment #1 about the 2.4L engine - is there any reason to think it's not the original motor? Most HHR's had the 2.2L. I'm still concerned that you might not have the correct injectors for the engine. The parts suppliers mess this up all the time. The VIN or the RPO label in the glove box will tell you what motor it's supposed to have. 2.4L in a 2007 would be LE5 on the RPO label.

Also, are you up for running the fuel pressure test again? The fuel pressure at the rail should only drop a few psi in 5-10 minutes. I think you said yours went to 5 or zero but wasn't that before the latest set of injectors and/or the new fuel pump?

Can you connect a scan tool and see what the long-term fuel trim is? Then start in and monitor the short and long fuel trim and see what happens? (Your P0172 is gone, right?)

Right now I suspect you have the wrong injectors, or an air leak like Donbrew has suggested. Or both.
Old Jun 22, 2023 | 12:33 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by PulpFriction
OK, good. A glutton for punishment, I re-read the entire thread. If I understand correctly, you're on your second set of new injectors, right? I'd like to know exactly what brand and p/n they are. And the way you stated in comment #1 about the 2.4L engine - is there any reason to think it's not the original motor? Most HHR's had the 2.2L. I'm still concerned that you might not have the correct injectors for the engine. The parts suppliers mess this up all the time. The VIN or the RPO label in the glove box will tell you what motor it's supposed to have. 2.4L in a 2007 would be LE5 on the RPO label.

Also, are you up for running the fuel pressure test again? The fuel pressure at the rail should only drop a few psi in 5-10 minutes. I think you said yours went to 5 or zero but wasn't that before the latest set of injectors and/or the new fuel pump?

Can you connect a scan tool and see what the long-term fuel trim is? Then start in and monitor the short and long fuel trim and see what happens? (Your P0172 is gone, right?)

Right now I suspect you have the wrong injectors, or an air leak like Donbrew has suggested. Or both.

yes, LE5 in glove box and states 2.4 on hood sticker,

these are the newest set of injectors More Information for ULTRA-POWER FJ718 (rockauto.com) (they list this same injector for the 2.2 as well)

fuel at the rail after new fuel pump doesn't drop anymore, after being shut off... i watched it for almost an hour maybe dropped 2lbs

no codes so far, longest its gone without a code.

i messed with fuse and relays doesnt seem to be the culprit

other maybe note worthy.... a few times now when shut off it has Diesel'd
Old Jun 22, 2023 | 12:35 PM
  #56  
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From: centralia
Originally Posted by PulpFriction
OK, good. A glutton for punishment, I re-read the entire thread. If I understand correctly, you're on your second set of new injectors, right? I'd like to know exactly what brand and p/n they are. And the way you stated in comment #1 about the 2.4L engine - is there any reason to think it's not the original motor? Most HHR's had the 2.2L. I'm still concerned that you might not have the correct injectors for the engine. The parts suppliers mess this up all the time. The VIN or the RPO label in the glove box will tell you what motor it's supposed to have. 2.4L in a 2007 would be LE5 on the RPO label.

Also, are you up for running the fuel pressure test again? The fuel pressure at the rail should only drop a few psi in 5-10 minutes. I think you said yours went to 5 or zero but wasn't that before the latest set of injectors and/or the new fuel pump?

Can you connect a scan tool and see what the long-term fuel trim is? Then start in and monitor the short and long fuel trim and see what happens? (Your P0172 is gone, right?)

Right now I suspect you have the wrong injectors, or an air leak like Donbrew has suggested. Or both.

if I monitor the short and long fuel trim what are the normal ranges i should be seeing?

i know before monitoring the o2 sensors my scan tool would highlight the reading in red when the 3's went out of range, fuel trim isnt getting highlighted red but that doesnt mean nothing Launch brand scanner
Old Jun 22, 2023 | 01:46 PM
  #57  
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From: Northern Ohio
Originally Posted by PBwithJ
if I monitor the short and long fuel trim what are the normal ranges i should be seeing?

i know before monitoring the o2 sensors my scan tool would highlight the reading in red when the 3's went out of range, fuel trim isnt getting highlighted red but that doesnt mean nothing Launch brand scanner
I don't know. I would amend my comment to monitor the a/f also, in particular at cold start, and as it transitions to closed loop as things warm up. (It happens pretty quickly.) Just do it. Read on and it might help you understand why I think it might help.

Awhile back (2 years maybe) I posted some screen grabs of live charts when I was getting a P0172. But the car is a 2011 2.2, which is flex fuel, an additional complication. I don't remember quantitatively when it was doing. I do remember that watching the live charts of the a/f and trims helped me understand what was happening. In particular, watching the very rich initial a/f with the O2 sensor cold, and so the system in open loop, and watching the trim transition when the sensor came on line. Mine was way off because the computer has erroneously store the wrong ethanol %.

Yours will be a bit different because you're not flex fuel, no ethanol %, so your initial a/f (once you get a reading) should be pretty close if your injectors are of the rate that your ECM thinks they are. I would guess the initial a/f is supposed to be a little rich but if excessively so that suggest something's off. I don't know how that works, or if a scan tool can adjust the initial a/f.

Another thing I just though of, I could be totally wrong but I seem to remember a mid-2007 change to injectors. Maybe call a GM perts department with your VIN and get the correct OEM number?

Last edited by PulpFriction; Jun 22, 2023 at 02:39 PM.
Old Jun 22, 2023 | 02:20 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by PulpFriction

What spark plugs are in it, brand and exact p/n? Keep checking for codes, even if no CEL.
I don't see an answer to this question, way back when Pulp joined this conversation.
Old Jun 22, 2023 | 04:49 PM
  #59  
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From: Welland,Ont Canada
Plugs should be AC Delco 41-103 iridium



Injectors should be these or equivalent cross reference part number
Old Jun 22, 2023 | 06:22 PM
  #60  
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Did you replace the cups and seals for the injectors? Clean the carbon out of the holes? Are the firmly sealed?

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