The misfire codes have not come back for a while now. Still smoking a bit, and losing a bit of oil. I'm thinking the turbo is blowing oil directly into the exhaust pipe.

I just bought all the gaskets and seals on eBay that I need. I'm going to swap the turbo with the spare I have that I bought some time ago from Tim(BlackTara).

I'll update when done, I'll probably make a How-To.

 

Cool maybe a video too?

 

Alright, turbo is swapped. Unfortunately, the symptoms are mostly the same. The misfire codes have not returned. It's still sometimes puffing smoke on deceleration, and losing a bit of oil.

Here's something: On the turbo, the inlet from the exhaust manifold is split into 2 sections. Cylinder 1 & 2, and cylinder 3 & 4. When I removed the turbo, I noticed that 1 & 2 side was slightly darker than the 3 & 4 side. This may agree with the P0301 & P0302.

So the turbo doesn't appear to be the problem. We've already discussed that valve guides/seals could be the problem. Donbrew has mentioned oil control rings from time to time, would this more likely be the problem?

I needed a smog check, so I changed the oil and filter, and air filter. Added some Bardahl No Smoke https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bardahl-N...-Leak/17188381

Then went for a drive to mix that thick stuff in and let it do it's job for a bit before the test. On that drive, the CEL came on. P0420. I figure, while jostling around the exhaust pipe to R & R the turbo, maybe a wire for an HO2S got pinched or bent or...? Either that, or the oil burning has killed the Cat. Cleared the code, hoping it's a fluke. Called and cancelled the smog test appointment.

Next day, driving around taking care of business, watching the readiness monitors. Finally, got all except EVAP completed. Looked at the dash, no CEL! Went straight to the smog check station, and passed the inspection!!!

I'm feeling like the cause of the smoking is academic now. The engine also has worn rings in #4. And the timing set should be changed soon if I am to keep it. Now with valve guides/seals, or oil control rings..... I think a new LDK motor is in my future.

I figure I've got a good year and a half, or until it fails, to get the new motor in. Smog is due every 2 years.

 

Reduced engine power message on dash. Car quit running pretty quick. Codes are for fuel pump/pressure regulator.

So do we know if it's the in-tank pump, or the HPFP under the hood?

 

Oh yeah, lovely start to vacation, 3 hours from home.

 

Aw man, that sucks.
from this thread some relevant info:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/ss-s...e-p0089-28792/

"P0089
• The fuel pressure adjustment is greater than +2,500 kPa (+363 psi) or less than -2,500 kPa (-363 psi).
• The DTCs set when the above conditions are met for 4 seconds.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
• DTCs P0087, P0088, and P0089 are Type A DTCs.
• A message center or an indicator displays Reduced Engine Power when DTC P0087 sets.
Conditions for Clearing the DTC

DTCs P0087, P0088, and P0089 are Type A DTCs.

Diagnostic Aids
• A skewed fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor may set these DTCs.
• Faulty fuel injectors may set DTCs P0087 or P0089. "

and
"what they found was that the wire harness for the FPR was tied with a "wire tie" which pulled that wire out of the harness! Keep in mind I have no idea where that harness is so that tells me it came like that from the factory!"

 

Since the parameter for setting P0087 is 281 PSI below expected, I have to go with high pressure.

The high pressure. It is an SS only code.

 

Perhaps it’s just me, but to be sure, check that wire harness first, then the ground wires .
It is plausible that you disturbed something or like me, forgot a wire when you replaced the turbo .
It might just be simply the HPFP gave up, by coincidence too.

 

OK, I went to the shop Saturday morning. The mechanic showed me something I hadn't noticed before. While running(barely), it was spewing smoke out the tailpipe. He said it was raw gas, and it did seem to smell like it.

The theory now is that the injector(s) stuck open, and won't allow enough pressure to build in the fuel rail. Bad injectors would explain the occasional misfires I've been chasing for years. He was going to start into the actual diagnosis that day, and get with me on Monday.

I rented a car and continued with vacation. A new VW Beetle. I don't really like it. There doesn't seem to be any way to monitor any systems. I don't know how far I can go on the remaining fuel, no coolant temp, nothing. The choices seem to be odometer or radio. I don't really want to take the time to read the owner manual(vacation), but I may look for something in there about this.

It's an automatic trans, I start light braking, controlling the speed, then it decides to downshift, which slightly shifts my weight forward, which makes me press the brake pedal a little harder, which shifts my weight forward, etc...

In my habit of manual shifting, I accidentally bumped the shifter at a stoplight. When the light turned green, I proceeded forward, the trans wouldn't shift. I had to figure out how to get it back into automatic mode, lol. I sure prefer manual trans, automatics are too complicated

 

Raw fuel pumped into the engine will fuel wash the cylinder walls and take out your piston rings. I’d recommend a look with a boriscope