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Red Brake Light on Dash - Not Parking SW or Fluid Level

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Old 06-29-2019, 06:42 PM
  #11  
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From Mitchell OnDemand:
This means that your rear brakes need attention. I bet that nobody has ever looked at them, much less adjusted them.
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Old 06-29-2019, 09:27 PM
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Thanks donbrew!
I'll look into adjusting the rear drum brakes. I'll see if I can borrow an ODB2 scanner that does ABS at work Monday.
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Old 06-29-2019, 09:28 PM
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Or adjust your brakes , perhaps the light will turn off.
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Old 06-30-2019, 02:13 AM
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You stated earlier - "The "Check Engine" light is most likely due to the intake and/or exhaust camshaft position solenoids. It's been on for several months" - what exactly makes you suspect that it is the solenoids that are needing replacement, when you have not downloaded the CEL error codes?

When the Solenoids go bad, they not only generate the P0010/11 and/or P0013/14, but typically generate the abrupt changing of the gears in the tranny - and you say you have not noticed that side effect.
You have already spent $2131.53, with another $2483.14 to be done - why spend an additional penny on something on spec?

and the dealer charging $140+ to replace the serpentine belt is way excessive.


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Old 06-30-2019, 08:14 AM
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Believe it or not: the flat rate for the serpentine belt is 1 hour! I bet the mechanics fight over that job.

The MSRP for the belt is $30.
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Old 06-30-2019, 10:22 AM
  #16  
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An hour, geez , it takes me that long , getting all the tools and jack and stands. Taking off the splash shield . And answering a phone call or two. Talking to a neighbor . An hour, and they have the correct tensioner tool? If I had one , the belt would be a 5 to 10 minutes, and done
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Old 06-30-2019, 01:02 PM
  #17  
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With the Kent-Moore tool from the tool shed no splash guard, no lift, no dirty rags, no hand cleaner.
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Old 06-30-2019, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by whopper
...When the Solenoids go bad, they not only generate the P0010/11 and/or P0013/14, but typically generate the abrupt changing of the gears in the tranny - and you say you have not noticed that side effect.
You have already spent $2131.53, with another $2483.14 to be done - why spend an additional penny on something on spec?...
The only work I had done at the dealer was the left hub bearing. I repaired the other "done" items myself with the exception of the alignment and injector flush (done at another shop after lower control arms).
The solenoids cause abrupt shifting? I was under the impression that they changed from one set of cam lobes to another. One tuned for cruising speeds and the other for quicker acceleration. I'll have to research that further.
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Old 06-30-2019, 01:43 PM
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Boy are you wrong! VVT stands for Variable Valve Timing, it is constantly changing. It causes hard shifting because it induces limp mode, also to wake the driver up so he will notice the CEL. Also turn TC off.

They took you for a long ride on the hub replacement! parts stores sell them for about $140, much cheaper on eBay, labor is less than 1 hour. GM gets $360 for the part.
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Old 07-01-2019, 12:19 PM
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I know I got hosed at the dealer for the wheel bearing. Having worn lower control arm bushings probably accelerated or possible caused the problem.

Today I got to use some pretty cool scanning equipment.
Zurich ZR13 scanner.
I pulled several codes from that. One of which was:



Also, an OTC Evolve:



Codes:
P0010-00
C0460-71
C0550-00

Even after clearing the codes, the brake dash light was still lit.
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