Actually with the majority of the possible causes, there is an associated diagnostic routine for them. A good mechanic will just start down the list of diagnostics, ruling out the possible causes, one at a time. A few of them you should be able to tackle on your own fairly quickly and easily: check for an exhaust leak as noted, clean the MAF sensor being careful to use the right cleaner and NEVER touch it with your hands.

Keep us posted on the progress if you can.

and here is a link to a "How-to" on replacing the fuel pump/filter in case that what it boils down to - https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...acement-36541/
(quickly found by using the SEARCH TOOL at the top of the page and entering "fuel pump replacement" (without the quotes). :)

 

You paid for a diagnostic. They did not perform a diagnostic, they pulled the code. There is a good 30 minutes more work after the code is read.

My personal 2 guesses are : 2)broken flex pipe and 1)bad purge solenoid (the one under the hood). I am taking a logical leap that they cleaned the MAF when they cleaned the throttle body.

The purge solenoid is DIY for under $20, the test is remove it and blow through it. If it is wide open it is bad.

 

If you came into my shop (I no longer have a shop) with you symptom of long starting the first thing I would have done is to put on a fuel pressure test gauge and note the readings.

If the fuel pressure drops off to nearly 0 when the key was turned off i would know that there is a problem. I would then disconnect the fuel rail and do a dead head pressure test.

If the fuel psi still dropped off I would then tell you that you need a new fuel pump assembly.

In most cases that the fuel pump won't hold rail psi the running psi is also low which will give you a lean code.

There is a how to on here about changing the fuel pump. You have to remove the fuel tank to replace the pump.

If you try it on your own remember that you are dealing with flammable vapors. Do not use household light bulbs that are easily broken and makes a great ignition source for the gasoline. Many shops had fires that way. Also don't do it in an enclosed space. Like a garage with a water heater in it.

 

Here is a how to on the fuel pomp with some pictures.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...acement-36541/

 

Also remember that even though you may be dealing with a low/no fuel pressure situation, there still may be residual pressure in the lines. So use extreme caution when disconnecting any lines or relieving system pressure.

Normally aspirated HHR's may only have fuel systems pressurized to 57-67 psi, but that's more than enough to spray partially atomized fuel quite a distance.

As Lucky pointed out with great accuracy, minimize possible ignition sources, you don't want to end up in the burn ward.

 

whopper - Maybe I shouldn't be too critical of modern day mechanics, maybe, I've just never met a 'good one' yet. lol What you said 'makes sense' - and it's my hope that there are good mechanics out there ... somewhere. Thanks for the link on the fuel pump and I will keep this site informed until I find a solution to the problem I'm having.

Thanks for your response.

 

donbrew - thanks for your response - I will check the solenoid and the flex pipe tomorrow and let you know.

I appreciate your suggestions.

 

Keep us in the loop, we're always interested in how these deals turn out. And while your problem isn't filling you with feelings of joy right now, this thread might just help another member out down the road.

And I too miss the "Good Old Days" of Quadrajets, Powerglides, greasable suspension components, no computers, and genuine "American by the grace of God" V-8 engines with enough low end torque to drag a house off its footings.

But alas, we've been forced to learn today's Alphabet Soup, ECM/PCM/BCM/TCM/Etc.

 

Lucky - thanks for your response (and I wish you had a shop I could come in to)... however, I'm forced to deal with what I got. Btw, when I took the car in the first time (when they told me I needed a 'throttle body cleaning,' I told the Svc Mgr I suspected a bad fuel pump.

When he told me I needed a throttle body cleaning he also told me that my fuel pump checked out "good." ...

After I returned with the car when the starting problems were still with me and the CEL had come back on - they tested it again and said - 'yes, the fuel pump tests bad.'

None of this gives me any confidence in these people.

thanks for the link and helpful hints concerning changing the fuel pump

 

Just remember, you're not limited to a Chevy Store. Any GM dealership will be able to work on your HHR, and check your local listings for a GM Tech Center or an AC/Delco Tech Center.

Even if you have to travel a bit, I'd get a second opinion. It may cost a few bucks, but compared to a new fuel pump assembly and labor, it would be time and money well spent.