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Timing chain motor trashed?

Old Dec 29, 2018 | 05:44 PM
  #31  
Chrris F's Avatar
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Went to pull a part today (you pull it) engine with 106,000 miles no start jumped time. Motor with 135,000 showed signes of a blow or going head gasket and milky oil. Engine 3 146,000 miles had fuel service at 110,000 oil was a little brown normal from the age and not black. 4.5 hours alone and now it’s sitting at well in my house. So new question is.. is there a way to tell if the timing chain has been changed? Or should I just take the safe route and change it anyway? I’m already changing the valve cover and I still have to get the balancer pull bolt out. And FYI pulling the motor out the top is a royal pain in the arse at least on the cobalt it is. I got all sensors and plugs just to have backups. Total cost so far $207.00 if anyone has any ideas of preventative stuff to do to this motor please tell me so I can do it now. Thank you guys for all your help one again you guys saved me with knowledge.
Old Dec 29, 2018 | 05:45 PM
  #32  
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Old Dec 29, 2018 | 05:59 PM
  #33  
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Change the timing and balance shaft chains and guides, I suggest the water pump and thermostat as well, it’s much easier now.
I always install the sensors from the OEM motor and keep the donor motor ones for spares
Old Dec 29, 2018 | 06:04 PM
  #34  
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So. Did I miss an update post ? Whatever happened to checking your original with a scope? Now you've gone and got a used engine and I guess you're going to go ahead and do a swap out ?
Old Dec 29, 2018 | 06:30 PM
  #35  
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I got side triacked and forgot to post did digging on the head this morning bent valves spotted 2 for sure valve spring down and followers flopping on the cam both intake valves 2 different cylinders. The impact was probably the shake I felt when it fired one time on that startup when it jumped time I can roll the timing chain by hand off the sprockets bore scope will be here in the morning with a mirror and I will triple check it. Needed a solid backup plan either way though.
Old Dec 30, 2018 | 01:35 PM
  #36  
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Old Dec 30, 2018 | 01:36 PM
  #37  
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Just enough to bend the top hat. That’s the only pics I took that was enough to warrant the swap. I was shaking and couldn’t get a good pic of the top hat bent. It’s a shame looked pretty clean otherwise.


Okay so my plan is new water pump new chains and sprockets thermostat plugs. So far the only differences is a nipple on the block for overflow compaired to hhr it being on the neck. I have to swap thermostat housings but I am having a hard time finding the gasket. Any one have a link by chance?
Old Dec 30, 2018 | 04:55 PM
  #38  
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That is not for overflow, the overflow depends on the cap. Just plug it.

Wasn't too hard to look at gmpartsgiant.com.

Old Dec 30, 2018 | 08:19 PM
  #39  
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Donbrew. Thank you I was getting a hair confused when I didn’t see them rectangle and didn’t see the note like yours has. Is there a brand of water pump you could recommend?

I have looked at the part stores and rock auto however I don’t feel secure in getting a “budget” water pump.

I found a couple deals on Cloyes chains and gears. I did take the water pump plate off and seen white or yellow paint on the chain however old style tensioner clearly a flat back style.

Pulled the plugs and scoped this one also some decent carbon build up. I think a few tanks of sea foam will clear that up. Plugs looked good and despite the carbon they burned clean and good color.

So far engine differances are that water port i have to plug and swap exhaust mainifolds the new one had Cali emissions. Kept all safety clips I could salvage. I still have to run the number on the fuel rail they look exact to me at a glance. I saved the fuel injector harness so I could just plug and play with it. Throttle body looks fair. I have to swap rear thermostat housings. I broke the cobalt one on the pull. That’s about all the updates I have as of now.
Old Dec 30, 2018 | 09:01 PM
  #40  
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Just between the air cleaner stud and the valve cover
Your old engine should have the plug, it’s this bolt..

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