Prefilling it was advice given to me by Powell. Saves a lot of frustration. Just bleed it normally, you should be fine

 

Thanks all for the replies and for trying to help me figure this out.

Yep, the GM manual only refers to what appears to be the standard 5 speed, not the MU3 (SAAB) manual transaxle. But, the components are similar (bleeder screw is still outside of the bell housing), and I'm sure (in the GM engineers eyes) the procedure is similar. There is still no bleeder screw at the slave cylinder for the standard HHR 5 speed, so, how does GM expect you to get the air out of the slave cylinder?

I truly don't believe applying a vacuum at the reservoir is sufficient. That is why I inquired here. Shade tree mechanics are usually MUCH more creative and resourceful than corporate engineers (believe me, I work in the service division of a world renowned OEM, and we do not have all of the answers).

I am curious, if anyone has performed this job, was prefilling the slave cylinder before installation what made this repair work? I just took it for another drive, after applying a vacuum at the reservoir a couple more times, and still the same results...

I really just want to finish this repair, so, if that means getting fluid into the slave cylinder by some other method than what GM says, I will do it. I'm just hoping for another option that doesn't require me tearing it apart again. Thanks again for keeping the conversation going.

Sincerely,
Robert

 

I just put in a new engine, clutch, and TOb/slave. I used my AAA towing benefit to tow it to my favorite shop. They charged me half hour labor, and a little bit of brake fluid, to bleed the clutch. I did not prefill the slave, I have had no problems with the clutch so far(200 miles).

 

if I were you, I would bleed it just like you bleed brakes. You should be able to get all the air out eventually. If you tear it apart again, just prefill it

 

I would love to bleed it like I do the brakes, but the bleeder screw is not the last link in the chain of items as the fluid moves away from the master cylinder. Prefilling it seems like a logical need when performing this job, I am just really baffled why GM doesn't say to do that when replacing the slave cylinder. Oh well...

The reason for me starting this thread was to seek out someone here that has performed this exact job on an SS and has successfully bled the clutch, so I could learn what I did wrong and get my clutch up to 100%. I don't want to tear it down again to properly bleed my clutch, but, I will if that's what I have to do.

Thanks for the info guys, and keep it coming, if anyone has anything to add.

Sincerely,
Robert

 

I’ve bled it before with just the bleeder screw. You can get good feel by it, it just takes longer

 

I'm going through the same problems after replacing the clutch and slave cylinder. The statement "GM states to put about 15 inches of mercury vacuum on the reservoir" is correct.
I just did some research on dry vacuum bleeding and that is how its done if you dont have a bleeder at the end of the line.
Here's a couple links.
http://​​​​​​​:https://images.oreill.../ptq/ib195.pdf
http://www.clutchmasters.com/content/clutchBleeding.pdf

I'm going to pick up a new reservoir cover to add a fitting for my vacuum pump.
I'll let you know how it works.

 

It didn't work out for me. There is some type of reservoir after the master cylinder that allows air to be drawn into the system when I apply vacuum to the main reservoir. I tried taping the vent closed, and I did get bubbles in the main reservoir, but the clutch is still engaging right at the floor.

 

Apparently, vacuum is to be applied at the bleeder and not the reservoir cap.

https://www.saabcentral.com/threads/...clutch.613610/


these Saab guys seem to have it figured out

https://www.google.ca/search?q=bleed...&client=safari