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Doing the Job Chevy won't. Wire Job Step 1 MAP

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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 02:43 PM
  #11  
bartSS's Avatar
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I got my appointment set up for the 25th to get this done and theyre giving me a new maf sensor too
Old Sep 9, 2010 | 02:49 PM
  #12  
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I thought yours didn't have stage kit issues Bart. Something new pop up recently?
Old Sep 9, 2010 | 04:10 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by camaro98z28
Solder will last for a long time from what I know, and will also if wrapped is just like never cut.. I will give it a while but my hopes are good now. Just need to do the bottom ones.. :)
The solder can crack and break if not supported. At strink sleeve is recomended to support it and also tie off the harness to limit movment. If supported well it should last.

Have you done a post mortum on the old connectors? It would be interesting to see if they were crimped right. Also to cut them appart and see if any crud got to them too.

I sill think if they are done right and taped they work fine but if you don't crimp them with the proper tool and do it right it leaved the door open to issues.

I am glad it is working so far. This may be the light at the end of your tunnel.
Old Sep 9, 2010 | 04:40 PM
  #14  
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From: denver
Post soldering

You should never crimp wire connectors on anything under the hood or under the car. They are prone to corrosion and working loose.
Go to an electronic supply ( Radio Shack )and get some heat shrink with a large enough inside diameter to go over 2 pieces of wire, cut off a piece about 2" long for each wire pair.
Strip off about 1/2" -3/4" on each wire, slide the heat shrink over one of the wires and move it back so it will not heat up with the iron.
Twist the 2 wires together and solder them using a 35 watt or higher solder iron and resin core solder. DO NOT USE ACID CORE SOLDER
Fold the soldered end over and slide the heat shrink over the exposed end and heat it with a match or cigarette lighter working from the middle out to the ends. Be sure the ends become sealed.
As with any type of welding or soldering on a computerizied car it is best to disconnect the battery first. Microprocessors dont like high voltage.
Old Sep 9, 2010 | 05:04 PM
  #15  
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Good thought, I will do a resistance test on it when I get home... I also doubled the heat shrink on the soldered area. :)
Originally Posted by hyperv6
The solder can crack and break if not supported. At strink sleeve is recomended to support it and also tie off the harness to limit movment. If supported well it should last.

Have you done a post mortum on the old connectors? It would be interesting to see if they were crimped right. Also to cut them appart and see if any crud got to them too.

I sill think if they are done right and taped they work fine but if you don't crimp them with the proper tool and do it right it leaved the door open to issues.

I am glad it is working so far. This may be the light at the end of your tunnel.
Old Sep 9, 2010 | 05:05 PM
  #16  
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Dirka What? What happen to the MAF and what are they saying?
Originally Posted by bartSS
I got my appointment set up for the 25th to get this done and theyre giving me a new maf sensor too
Old Sep 9, 2010 | 05:08 PM
  #17  
gcsd3742's Avatar
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so well tell me did the Soldering and Shrink wrapping fix your Issue.... It did on mine. thats why i passed the word
Old Sep 9, 2010 | 05:09 PM
  #18  
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Man, how did you know what I did? LOL.. This is for everyone but make sure to practice soldering on some spare wire... I've had all the stuff for a long time and desided not to wait for help.
Originally Posted by johnsHHRSS
You should never crimp wire connectors on anything under the hood or under the car. They are prone to corrosion and working loose.
Go to an electronic supply ( Radio Shack )and get some heat shrink with a large enough inside diameter to go over 2 pieces of wire, cut off a piece about 2" long for each wire pair.
Strip off about 1/2" -3/4" on each wire, slide the heat shrink over one of the wires and move it back so it will not heat up with the iron.
Twist the 2 wires together and solder them using a 35 watt or higher solder iron and resin core solder. DO NOT USE ACID CORE SOLDER
Fold the soldered end over and slide the heat shrink over the exposed end and heat it with a match or cigarette lighter working from the middle out to the ends. Be sure the ends become sealed.
As with any type of welding or soldering on a computerizied car it is best to disconnect the battery first. Microprocessors dont like high voltage.
Old Sep 9, 2010 | 05:15 PM
  #19  
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Hey Man :).. so far just doing the top wires have worked thus far... im going to give it a week or two.. Yesterday when I was going to work, I had some loss of boost and sputter so I just said. F IT!!! LOL So lets knock on wood and I hope that this will help everyone with this issue. Anyone that lives in AZ, I'll do it for free..

I also have to Ship out my parts to JAXON. :) So much to do and damn that IC because it's a pain to box up and secure it. Ugh. LOL
Originally Posted by gcsd3742
so well tell me did the Soldering and Shrink wrapping fix your Issue.... It did on mine. thats why i passed the word
Old Sep 9, 2010 | 05:17 PM
  #20  
gcsd3742's Avatar
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From: Southside of Houston Texas
your only sayn you'll do it for free because no one else lives in AZ....LOL



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