Doing the Job Chevy won't. Wire Job Step 1 MAP
Have you done a post mortum on the old connectors? It would be interesting to see if they were crimped right. Also to cut them appart and see if any crud got to them too.
I sill think if they are done right and taped they work fine but if you don't crimp them with the proper tool and do it right it leaved the door open to issues.
I am glad it is working so far. This may be the light at the end of your tunnel.
You should never crimp wire connectors on anything under the hood or under the car. They are prone to corrosion and working loose.
Go to an electronic supply ( Radio Shack )and get some heat shrink with a large enough inside diameter to go over 2 pieces of wire, cut off a piece about 2" long for each wire pair.
Strip off about 1/2" -3/4" on each wire, slide the heat shrink over one of the wires and move it back so it will not heat up with the iron.
Twist the 2 wires together and solder them using a 35 watt or higher solder iron and resin core solder. DO NOT USE ACID CORE SOLDER
Fold the soldered end over and slide the heat shrink over the exposed end and heat it with a match or cigarette lighter working from the middle out to the ends. Be sure the ends become sealed.
As with any type of welding or soldering on a computerizied car it is best to disconnect the battery first. Microprocessors dont like high voltage.
Go to an electronic supply ( Radio Shack )and get some heat shrink with a large enough inside diameter to go over 2 pieces of wire, cut off a piece about 2" long for each wire pair.
Strip off about 1/2" -3/4" on each wire, slide the heat shrink over one of the wires and move it back so it will not heat up with the iron.
Twist the 2 wires together and solder them using a 35 watt or higher solder iron and resin core solder. DO NOT USE ACID CORE SOLDER
Fold the soldered end over and slide the heat shrink over the exposed end and heat it with a match or cigarette lighter working from the middle out to the ends. Be sure the ends become sealed.
As with any type of welding or soldering on a computerizied car it is best to disconnect the battery first. Microprocessors dont like high voltage.
Good thought, I will do a resistance test on it when I get home... I also doubled the heat shrink on the soldered area. :)
The solder can crack and break if not supported. At strink sleeve is recomended to support it and also tie off the harness to limit movment. If supported well it should last.
Have you done a post mortum on the old connectors? It would be interesting to see if they were crimped right. Also to cut them appart and see if any crud got to them too.
I sill think if they are done right and taped they work fine but if you don't crimp them with the proper tool and do it right it leaved the door open to issues.
I am glad it is working so far. This may be the light at the end of your tunnel.
Have you done a post mortum on the old connectors? It would be interesting to see if they were crimped right. Also to cut them appart and see if any crud got to them too.
I sill think if they are done right and taped they work fine but if you don't crimp them with the proper tool and do it right it leaved the door open to issues.
I am glad it is working so far. This may be the light at the end of your tunnel.
Man, how did you know what I did? LOL.. This is for everyone but make sure to practice soldering on some spare wire...
I've had all the stuff for a long time and desided not to wait for help.
I've had all the stuff for a long time and desided not to wait for help. You should never crimp wire connectors on anything under the hood or under the car. They are prone to corrosion and working loose.
Go to an electronic supply ( Radio Shack )and get some heat shrink with a large enough inside diameter to go over 2 pieces of wire, cut off a piece about 2" long for each wire pair.
Strip off about 1/2" -3/4" on each wire, slide the heat shrink over one of the wires and move it back so it will not heat up with the iron.
Twist the 2 wires together and solder them using a 35 watt or higher solder iron and resin core solder. DO NOT USE ACID CORE SOLDER
Fold the soldered end over and slide the heat shrink over the exposed end and heat it with a match or cigarette lighter working from the middle out to the ends. Be sure the ends become sealed.
As with any type of welding or soldering on a computerizied car it is best to disconnect the battery first. Microprocessors dont like high voltage.
Go to an electronic supply ( Radio Shack )and get some heat shrink with a large enough inside diameter to go over 2 pieces of wire, cut off a piece about 2" long for each wire pair.
Strip off about 1/2" -3/4" on each wire, slide the heat shrink over one of the wires and move it back so it will not heat up with the iron.
Twist the 2 wires together and solder them using a 35 watt or higher solder iron and resin core solder. DO NOT USE ACID CORE SOLDER
Fold the soldered end over and slide the heat shrink over the exposed end and heat it with a match or cigarette lighter working from the middle out to the ends. Be sure the ends become sealed.
As with any type of welding or soldering on a computerizied car it is best to disconnect the battery first. Microprocessors dont like high voltage.
Hey Man :).. so far just doing the top wires have worked thus far... im going to give it a week or two.. Yesterday when I was going to work, I had some loss of boost and sputter so I just said. F IT!!! LOL So lets knock on wood and I hope that this will help everyone with this issue. Anyone that lives in AZ, I'll do it for free..
I also have to Ship out my parts to JAXON. :) So much to do and damn that IC because it's a pain to box up and secure it. Ugh. LOL
I also have to Ship out my parts to JAXON. :) So much to do and damn that IC because it's a pain to box up and secure it. Ugh. LOL


