Intermittant boost problem.
Mine would hit 17# and then drop to 4-5# and then come back.
If it has done it enough could it have damaged the wires going into the plug and it just won't go up any higher when it has too much resistance?
If it has done it enough could it have damaged the wires going into the plug and it just won't go up any higher when it has too much resistance?
looking at it on a rack it looks ok but under a load in first gear it hits.
To check to see if that is it put a piece of cardboard or foam between the connector and AC compressor. I used a piece of roll bar padding to keep it from making contact. Once that solved the cut out the dealer used shims to move the IC forward to give me clearance. Two years later it is still fine.
As the SS get older and engine mound gain more give with miles I see this happening to many SS that are ok now but later start cutting out. There is little room to give in there.
It is hard to discover as it is something only being on the road can make it hit.
This could still be something else but it is something easy to check.
That was my issue. THe connector come in contact with the AC compressor. The engine would torque back and lift the Map connector into the the AC and it would cut out and then come back.
looking at it on a rack it looks ok but under a load in first gear it hits.
To check to see if that is it put a piece of cardboard or foam between the connector and AC compressor. I used a piece of roll bar padding to keep it from making contact. Once that solved the cut out the dealer used shims to move the IC forward to give me clearance. Two years later it is still fine.
As the SS get older and engine mound gain more give with miles I see this happening to many SS that are ok now but later start cutting out. There is little room to give in there.
It is hard to discover as it is something only being on the road can make it hit.
This could still be something else but it is something easy to check.
looking at it on a rack it looks ok but under a load in first gear it hits.
To check to see if that is it put a piece of cardboard or foam between the connector and AC compressor. I used a piece of roll bar padding to keep it from making contact. Once that solved the cut out the dealer used shims to move the IC forward to give me clearance. Two years later it is still fine.
As the SS get older and engine mound gain more give with miles I see this happening to many SS that are ok now but later start cutting out. There is little room to give in there.
It is hard to discover as it is something only being on the road can make it hit.
This could still be something else but it is something easy to check.
I check mine every time I change my oil. You have to jack it up first to see it. I took some pics and added some text to illustrate what needs to be examined.
if you think it may be a cause just take a zip tie and pull the lower ic tube forward a bit,,,,use the corner of the rad for this,,if the sensor is hitting it wont after tying it back..if you still have a problem , its elsewhere....dont suggest leaving it like this as a perm fix though.
Thanks for the photo's.
I just used a pice of roll bar pad cut to keep the tube from moving and put a small piece behind the sensor. This kept the plug from conacting the AC unit. Yes it can move that far under hard acceleration.
GMPD told me to have the dealer [under warranty] to move the IC forward with fender shims and it would not take much to give the needed clearance.
Also check to make sure the lower tube is all the way on the IC. If it is not pushed all the way on you can gain room this way. With the new T map space is very limited and in first gear under a load what space you do have becomes even less.
It could still be something else but this has happend to others with the same complaint.
Note you can't tell much by looking at it as it will not be in contact sitting still and the plug will show no damage.
Note right after I had the GM Upgrade installed the lower T map blew out of the lower tube. It was said to be a bad weld by GMPD. It may have but I think the contact with the AC compressor may have help break the bad plastic weld.
I just used a pice of roll bar pad cut to keep the tube from moving and put a small piece behind the sensor. This kept the plug from conacting the AC unit. Yes it can move that far under hard acceleration.
GMPD told me to have the dealer [under warranty] to move the IC forward with fender shims and it would not take much to give the needed clearance.
Also check to make sure the lower tube is all the way on the IC. If it is not pushed all the way on you can gain room this way. With the new T map space is very limited and in first gear under a load what space you do have becomes even less.
It could still be something else but this has happend to others with the same complaint.
Note you can't tell much by looking at it as it will not be in contact sitting still and the plug will show no damage.
Note right after I had the GM Upgrade installed the lower T map blew out of the lower tube. It was said to be a bad weld by GMPD. It may have but I think the contact with the AC compressor may have help break the bad plastic weld.
if you think it may be a cause just take a zip tie and pull the lower ic tube forward a bit,,,,use the corner of the rad for this,,if the sensor is hitting it wont after tying it back..if you still have a problem , its elsewhere....dont suggest leaving it like this as a perm fix though.
thanks again......................
These type of Stage 1 issues are why I haven't bothered to go with stage 1. It is a gamble on if you get a competent tech or even a tech who has seen an SS before let alone a GM made with a turbo. I'm skipping straight to aftermarket programming and parts, at least when something is screwed up, I know who to blame! I had enough issues with just having an aftermarket air filter. The cars are getting too advanced IMO. You have to be an electrician, gear head, and computer tech to have a decent chance of troubleshooting one of the newer gen cars.
These type of Stage 1 issues are why I haven't bothered to go with stage 1. It is a gamble on if you get a competent tech or even a tech who has seen an SS before let alone a GM made with a turbo. I'm skipping straight to aftermarket programming and parts, at least when something is screwed up, I know who to blame! I had enough issues with just having an aftermarket air filter. The cars are getting too advanced IMO. You have to be an electrician, gear head, and computer tech to have a decent chance of troubleshooting one of the newer gen cars.
For the most few people have GMTU issues and many who do often it comes down to the dealer they are working with.
My issues were just due to the accident I was in and there they mounted the IC. They installed new mounts and it was fine with the old T map but the new one was an issue. THey made the needed changes and it has been sweet since.
The only real issues are the techs that can't crimp or use the proper tools. Those who had it done right have had no issues.


