dmdreese

Thanks ATL, that makes more sense. May be worth it to try the dejon spring first. I need to call the tech and see which part they're recommending to change. I didn't realize the solenoid and valve were separate. The quote i got was $190 which seems really high for either of those parts.

dmdreese

The intermittent nature of this problem is making it difficult to talk to the dealer. I've been able to give the tech a detailed description of the indications. They haven't been able to recreate the problem and are reluctant to go further, that's why I called chev customer assistance. I've given them plenty of P0101 codes to clear, but they haven't been able to see/hear the problem.

KissMy08SS

I've got a Dejon Spring forsale if your interested. You can have it for $10 bucks shipped....

ATLsilverSS

ok first thing i would try and i totally forgot all about this in your case......bypass the solenoid tank by routing the vacuum lines as pictured below. the solenoid tank is located underneath the manifold...the purpose is to store and quickly release vacuum and sometimes this tank does not do so correctly. i have had mine bypassed for over a year now.




you should be able to bypass the whole solenoid altogether by rerouting the vacuum lines and replacing the solenoid with a t fitting. the vacuum lines and solenoid are supposed to look like the picture below. reroute them to look like the picture above and pull the solenoid and put a t fitting in its place



i would try the vacuum tank bypass first then the vacuum lines will be where the need to be to simply replace the solenoid with a t fitting. long term.....dunno....i would at least replace the faulty solenoid and possibly leave the vacuum tank bypassed

look up mongorat427 on css.net...........he has a bypass valve for 25 bucks if u need one. the solenoid is available for 45 bucks from ced

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...P9076C137.aspx

KissMy08SS

I just bypassed the vacuum tank...(took like 2 mintues)....of coarse...still runs the same.

As far as bypassing the solenoid to see if it's bad or not......
Does this look right?

ATLsilverSS

no place a t fitting where the green marking is

dmdreese

Will let you know once the customer service regional manager weighs in this week on where to go from here.

russruth

These cars are incredibly sensitive and anything seems to throw a code, put them in limp mode to protect the engine (warranty).

I still bet it's the way the stage one was wired and unless the wires are completely sealed, soldered or not, they will short and throw a code.

The only other suggestion I have is the mechanical fuel pump.

Mine went out at 21k miles.

Still, I would start fresh on the stage 1 wiring.

I like this car, but chevy put some cheap parts in it.

The other day I was looking at the turbo setup of my EVO 8 compared to the SS and the EVO is all business and metal, the SS has a lot of tin and plastic.


IMO

KissMy08SS

Hey dmdreese-

Did you car ever run perfect with the GMTU installed? or has it always ran the way your describing? The reason I ask is because mine ran fine for about the first 2 months with the upgrade...then one day...it fell flat on it's face...been having problems ever since then. Is your problem like that as well?

dmdreese

Mine ran great for about a year and a half before it starting acting up. Have had the stage one wires soldered, a new MAF sensor installed, intake cleaning and vacuum test the entire system. I just wired in a vacuum gage into the line from the solenoid to the bypass valve. This way I'll be able to see what vacuum signal the bypass valve is getting when it acts up. Trying to eliminate either the solenoid or the bypass valve. Next step after this is to run a circuit tester out to the solenoid to see if its getting power when its acting up.