I found the tank on zzp's ebay for 40 from factory take offs. They said they don't use them. So I just bought one. I did buy a boost control solenoid and I haven't tested any lines until I get my tool tomorrow. So maybe Saturday I can go through and check all lines finally.

 

I saw that ZZP now has the boost control solenoid and the bypass solenoid, that's awesome! There was a time when they were unavailable, and several members, myself included, were in need, and scrambling to find something that would work.

 

Well after boost fell again the light came back on. P2178.
replacing air filter as mine does have a hole in it I found. Gonna do boost test vacuum test and also clean throttle body tomorrow. Will post updates when done.

 

That means vacuum leak. Too much air in the combustion chamber.
The full name is: fuel trim rich at cruise or accel. (when there is supposed to be boost.)

So, most likely one of the vacuum connections to the turbo. My guess is a vacuum solenoid is broken. Only a guess, I don't know anything about turbos.

Here is a list of things to worry about:

 

Well. I did boost and vacuum test. There was a massive vacuum leak on my bpv solenoid on top of intake. I replaced hose and still getting p2178. Boost test went good. I went out and bought a compressor. Regulated it to like 3-5 psi and made that homemade tester. It kept air to the point I could drain it from the tester after a few minutes of leaving it alone. I figured that was fine. I made a tank from pvc until I get new vacuum tank and it made it I feel like a little longer before p2178 came up. Does anyone actually think that tank can cause p2178 under certain scenarios? How I tell its gonna come on is boost goes from 13-15 psi to max 7 sometimes under. Don are you talking about the wastegate solenoid ontop of turbo? Its so weird I can clear codes and it runs So nice until it shows up. I did not clean throttle body though because I don't have coolant to move the radiator back. I will have to get some so if it spills I can refill.

 

So I have a few questions based off things I've learned and read..
RJ You said for boost test do 15 psi? from my hose end? I did like 5 psi.. is that not enough? I found no leaks and how I did it was Disconnect top of turbo charge pipe and put my homemade boost tester on that and filled it with air.. and after like 3 minutes I could still release air from my homemade device. You said take off charge pipe from throttle body for test? why do you do this and should I have done this? A guy from work said he would pull the two bolts for radiator and disconnect top hose and move that out of way to get to the TB and you guys like to take off intake manifold?
I also used soap and water on the entire system which is how I found the lead on BPV solenoid.
Don, you said I may have a vacuum leak. I tested hose from BPV to BPV Solenoid. I could actually hear the new BPV open and shut when I made vacuum and released vacuum. I vacuum tested BPV solenoid hose to intake manifold bypassing vacuum tank. It had a major leak which I now have fixed. The only line I could not test with vacuum because I did not get access is BPV solenoid hose to cool side intercooler pipe on bottom. Vacuum test did not work. But when I compressed the charge lines with my boost tester if i pulled that hose everytime it would release pressure from the system. which makes me think that it is a good line. I ran my Vacuum through both hoses on vacuum tank. one held vacuum one did not.
So I have a code reader/ scanner I bought. Nothing fancy. But it did show when I reset code my short term fuel trim is -25 and when I drive and then it sets off light my long term fuel trim is -30. So from what I read my car is heavily trying to lean out extra fuel that is being added.
At idle my fuel pressure on dash of HHR bounces from 250-500 ish.
Buick regals stock are suppose to have opal injectors which would cause rich, and suppose to have 4 bar maps. None of that would affect this correct?
Would a tune fix this? Is it my intake sucking in too much air and the car is dumping fuel in and my PCM is saying no?
My MAF reads air movement but I did not see a voltage on my scanner. When I rev. It goes up.
Got also a NEW K and N filter and barley put the oil on there. so it is not restricted for air.
scanner also said all o2 sensors are in range and working properly

 

Took off front bumper. Upper radiator hose. Radiator mounting brackets and unhooked intercooler from one side and dropped it all down on the passanger side to take this photo

I got it off by just sliding the radiator and everything down and back.

All cleaned. We will see if this works. So far this morning i did another boost test to 20 psi. No leaks held air. Sprayed all vacuum lines with carb/tb cleaner to see if any leaks. No leaks. Now cleaned tb. Will see if any of this helps. Will do another boost leak test when i get done putting intercooler back on to make sure its not leaking

 

Sorry, I was on vacay when the port on my phone decided it didn't want to allow the battery to charge anymore. So now I'm stuck on the old laptop until I can get a new phone.

I disconnected from the throttle body and plugged the charge pipe because I didn't think the throttle body would completely seal.

I think if a solenoid is broken, you'll get an overboost or underboost code.

 

Welcome back rj. Well I got a new intercooler installed from Zzp and man how did you guys get your bumper to fit back on right? I have had this bumper off 5 times and it like does not fit with the new intercooler. Anyways it's install and my new vacuum tank is also installed. Just drove like 5 miles and got the p2178 again.. here's some things on my scanner that may help? I have no idea I'm still learning so bare with me guys.

This was at 0% the entire drive from what I could tell. Same with short term one on next picture.

This o2 sensor actually kept going to 0 volts under deceleration. EXAMPLE. Going downhill with no throttle on and no cruise. Short term trim ---- but my bank on next picture shows my issue

This is at idle.

This is the fuel bank that failed.

 

I was installing the passenger side of the bumper first, and could not get the driver side on, 2 or 3 times. Then I started with the driver side, and it wasn't easy, but I got the passenger side on. It's a lot tighter fit than I expected. I thought it was because I didn't get the driver side charge pipe on as far as I would have liked to, but that wouldn't cause the issue. The charge pipes flex plenty.